No dice, the default keyboard bindings (F5,F6,F7,F8)do nothing either. I tried setting an axis to both 0-100 axis and whatever the “normal” axis is also and neither one moved the handle. Only way to operate it seems to be with the mouse. Which isn’t that big of a deal I guess. Thanks for the help, I don’t think it’s possible
Something isn’t right here, because I know for certain I can use the flaps axis.
It’s 04:07 here, so I’m not going to get up and fire up the sim, but I will definitely look at this for you in a few hours when I’m officially up for the day.
take your time no rush, sleep well! 
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Ok. I believe your issue is due to the engines not running.
If I use any of the Flaps keybindings with the engines off (even if I’ve manually pressurized the hydraulic system. I think they are hydraulically activated…) the flaps will not move.
If you start the engines, they will.
Both the default F-Keys F5-F8 work as does Flaps Axis.
ah ok, i was just sitting in the cockpit trying to familiarize myself with the controls. I’ll try with the engines running. However the lever itself wasn’t even moving when pressing the F keys or the switches on my HOTAS.
It doesn’t move for me, either, but the indicator on the left of the instrument panel will move and audio will play when you use the keybindings.
It makes sense that the lever doesn’t animate. The way you would operate the flaps is by holding the lever in and on position until the flaps were at the setting you desired then you’d return the lever to its off position. That doesn’t really translate to how we use keybindings with the sim where they behave more like notched settings.
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Was a combination of the lever not animated and the flaps inoperative because I had no hydraulic pressure. Once the engines we’re running everything worked as expected. Thanks for the help I really appreciate it. It’s a fun plane to fly, now to work on my rudder dance.
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This is for the MSFS DC-3 Not the Duckworks Mod. When taking off
- Make sure tail wheel is locked (pushed in)
- The Dc3 Doesnt nreed flaps on take off (unless its a short runway)
- You dont need boost pumps unless its cold weather.
- Slowly increase power keeping straight (yes its difficult) use your rudder but avoid over correcting. be gentle.
- When you feel the tail lift hold it there till your at 90-100 mph then gently lift 500-1000 ft min,check your gauges .
- Gear up after take off as it causes drag. Go to METO (max except take off) power while you get settled to the climb 42MP 2550 rpm, boost pumps off.
- What jet jockies dont understand is you DONT PULL UP SHARPLY IN A DC-3, it doesnt have that energy thrust a fighter has. Stall speed is 60mph
- Hold it to the desired altitude on a gentle climb 500-1000FT/MIN 40mp 2400rpm . Cowl flaps on closed.
- At desired altitude Set to cruise, mixtures auto lean, rpm 2100 +MP 30"
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I am confused by the difference in the engine starters and in the start procedure. The MSFS checklist does not correspond with the real-world one. In MSFS there is a inertial wheel spooling up audibly like on an Antonov-2. The real plane starts up like other big radials with 8 blades being counted before magnetos-on. There is also a so-called vibrator switch that comes into play. I have not found any info on you-tube on this subject, though. Is there maybe a difference between Wright and PW?
I have seen DC-3 checklists that indicate a process for inertia starters for startup.
I’ve also seen some discussion threads with older pilots talking about the DST (Douglas Sleeper Transport) having inertia starters, but that most DC-3s had conventional starters in their later lives (as in standard equipment or retrofits).
The thing with airplanes like this is so many were made and so many still persist that most have probably been modified over all this time.
Anyhow, it seems the DC-3/C-47 had both types.
Typical regular starter procedure is like this, AFAIK:
(Correct me if I am wrong, but real world only!)
I take it that the items Fuel Tank selector open and Gills open are ok:
-Mixture Lever IDLE CUTOFF
-Throtte Half-Inch Open
-Electr. Fuel Pump ON
-Prime
-Turn Over Eng. with Starter Motor
-Count 12 Blades
-Keep Priming
-Press Ignition Boost
-Magnetos to ON/BOTH
-When Engine Fires, Keep Priming
-When Engine Seems To Falter, set
Mixture to AUTO RICH
-Throtte to 1000 RPM
Here’s an alternate for an inertial starter-equipped DC-3:
START ENGINES
Right Magneto Lever - Both
Right Fuel Boost Pump - On
Prime Switch - On Right
Start Switch - ON RIGHT, 10 to 15 seconds Mesh Switch - On Right
Mesh Switch - Off
Start Switch - OFF
Right Mixture - Auto-Rich Right Fuel Boost Pump - OFF
Repeat for Left Engine
Source:
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Ok, this is the Duckworks model which is, unfortunately, modeled with an inertial starter and sound file. What I wish for Christmas or earlier, is a mod that changes this to regular starter 
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difficult to see what your doing wrong.
But remember the DC-3 like all props takes time to build speed T/O spd 48 MP 2600 Prop
If you try and take off to quick like a daredevil jet pilot and pull up to soon you will stall and crash. Slow down, take your time, the old girl needs gentle handling.
Good rule of thumb is to take off (tail wheel locked) and lift tail and hold it level there on runway and build speed. DC-3 doesnt need flaps on take off.
DC-3 tail will lift itself, then eventually take it in a gentle climb to, when gear up then switch to METO pwr
(42 mp 2550 rpm) and make your climb 500 or 1000 ft per minute and when steady.
close cowl flaps/engine heat on.
Switch Gyro pilot on with the heading you set before takeoff (make sure hydraulic handle is fwd). be aware gyro will dip on AP start so be ready to turn that pitch dial anti clockwork wise to pitch up to counter that. (or your own pitch control)
Once stabilized in a climb (1000ft per min) change to climb power
(40MP 2400 RPM) and continue climb.
Remember watch Throttle because as you climb Throttle power “decreases” so you have to nudge it up every minute or so.
Superchargers on at 5000 ft. (dont forget to pull back your throttle 10MP before starting Superchargers or you may blow your engines) Then when applied adjust Throttle again in climb till you get to desired altitude. and set for cruise.
Fuel Mix Auto lean and (MP 28-32 2100 rpm) check your pitch angle and then get coffee.
Last of all try the Duckworks improvement mod, its more stable on T/O and landing. 
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It helps to watch a real DC-3, but alas, they are very rare these days.
A real DC-3 is very stable and can fly hands-off in zero wind.
to fly MSFS it is a very good idea to buy a yoke and throttle set.
the switches on my HOTAS.