Need to upgrade from Xbox here and want a high end pc set up. Have £3k…any recommendations?
Are you going to purchase the components and assemble them yourself or purchase a pre-built system?
Ar you using this computer primarily for MSFS or will you be playing other games? If so, which games.
Do you plan on playing in VR or strictly on a monitor/TV?
Do you plan on using the computer for content creation (game or 3D design work) or video editing?
What is your FPS comfort level? Do you want insanely high graphics settings?
Just for fun I went to Amazon.uk and built a machine with a 5800x3d CPU, 4090 GPU, 32Gb of memory, and 2Tb SSD. Including the rest of the hardware (no monitor) and Windows11, the total before tax/VAT was less than 2300 British Pounds. 3K on a pre-built system will get you a little better than half that machine.
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Thanks for reply!
Not sure about pre built or not. Would like to give building a try but never have before and sure it can’t be as easy as some suggest though the savings and performance look too good to not look into.
Will be primarily for mfs with VR not content or taxing additional work.
Really not sure what my comfort level is re fps but willing to sacrifice graphics slightly for more fps.
Also wondering it might be best to wait until mfs24 release as some things might perform different. ?.
Was also thinking if it’s an idea to wait until 50s Nvidia before committing. ?.
Would appreciate your thoughts.
Whatever you choose 3k English will get you a very nice machine indeed. I’d suggest AM5 with an X3D CPU with that budget. You could wait for the next line of X3D chips and/or nvidia 50 series but it won’t take long before that’s no longer top dog. With PC building you generally get better value by just coming back a bit from the top of line gear. Good luck with it.
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Hello @Amshotgum
I have turned your post within the Home Cockpit Builders thread into it’s own under Hardware & Peripherals.
Thanks.
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If you’re going to spend that much… You really don’t need to spend that much
Probably the best buy for ‘right now’ with the least amount of trouble is a build using the 78003DX but using the 670 chipset mobo(future proofing) and using 6000 30CL ram. Stable, efficient, and no ju jitsu to make it work.
Frankly the 4080S is the best deal/efficient choice of the GPU lot. There’s nothing wrong with swinging for a 4090, but it’s a big leap in price. Then use the 7800 for now until the next great X3D CPU is realized/tested/sorted(because not all X3D CPUs are equal), then just sell it off and pop the new one in. The GPU should still be perfectly relevant to realize CPU gains for the 8X
The GPU dark horse is the 7900XTX which can be all over the place in testing. In theory, it should be PDC to the 4090 but AMD software is weak sauce. But if a developer utilizes it it can get some hero numbers. Hard to say what they do with 2024 based on optimizing AMD GPU’s with the XBOX if it translates to that card. THAT would be my only 2024 ‘unknown’. XBSX wasn’t really in play when they first started developing 2020. Now that XBSX AMD hardware is one of their top priorities for 2024.
4080S is the ‘safe’ bet as it’s not getting ginned up in pricing by ‘AI’ users and it would still sell off for a good return when they drop kick new GPU’s next year(if you even need it). It’s still considered bleeding edge at #2 so most games currently are developed with lesser cards as a target ideal.
The low power draw on the 4080s and it’s temps are insanely efficient. With a 7800X3D it’s quite trouble free.
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It really is. The only real concern is damaging parts by not taking appropriate anti-static precautions, or losing important tiny screws. Neither of which is too hard to mitigate. Otherwise it’s no more complicated than assembling flat-pack furniture**, and you’ll get more for your budget than you would otherwise, since the labour is free.
Once you’ve built it then you may have more fun with BIOS updates, config etc but that’s grist for the mill on a pre-built too, at least when upgrade time comes. Power users like simmers can’t really be plug and play and TBH that’s kind of the attraction of Xbox for some; but it comes with compromises which is why many look to upgrade to a PC experience.
Personally, I would hold off until 2024 has been out for a few months and we all have a good idea what the best hardware for it is.
** Unless you’re getting into custom water cooling or eXtreme overclocking 
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Building is easy, if you’re not into ultimate showmanship(but still pretty) Lian Li cases are the most user friendly and frankly better finished inside and out, de-burred edges, quality hardware, well thought out.
#1 trick for building a computer is to first and foremost take out your new mobo and power supply(on the cardboard box not the shiny bag it came in!), power it up and flash the bios immediately(pretty much any and all modern gaming mobos have USB flash capability). This will virtually guarantee it will post up no problems.
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ALTHOUGH, it will be curious to see when the 5080 comes out… 
ETA: NM all those rumors from a few days ago are just for testing, we ain’t seeing it for a while. And then they’ll do the ti’s then the supers, then the ti supers…
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As others have said, assembling a computer is easy. You just have to be careful with a few things, and be willing to watch a few videos and read a few manuals.
The #1 thing that can trip you up is component clearance. I’ve posted a couple of threads detailing ‘gotchas’ I’ve run into with my own builds / upgrades. “Measure twice, cut once” is a maxim that will serve you well if you decide to go the home-build route.
The only way I would ever buy a pre-built is if I didn’t have any time to put my own together. Besides, I actually find it very rewarding to push that power button for the first time and see things working.
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I find with pre-builts I ALWAYS find one thing that bugs me about them. Some odd mobo combo, or some RAM selection that’s always just a little bit off. Like they’ll build a 7950/4090 then use 5600 ram or use a 7900X3D or something odd like that. I’ll establish a budget, pick my ‘dream items’ then look at prebuilts and can’t find a single one that matches from anyone reputable, and not even brand-specific components.
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Or a “Gold Hi-Quality Power Supply.”
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Something is always unbranded, they can’t just have full specs
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I’m currently using a WMR headset. So I plan on waiting for the 5090 to come out and purchase the 4090 at the same time I upgrade my VR headset. Hopefully to the new Samsung VR headset that’s supposed to come out.
I think the 5090 price is going to be over the top. Hopefully it will bring down the cost of the 4090 a little. As someone else stated, fast memory is a must. MAKE SURE YOU DON’T GO CHEAP ON THE POWER SUPPLY!!! It’s the backbone of your entire system.
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If you have a budget of £3000 there’s no need to limit yourself when planning to buy or build PC that will last for years. With this amount, you have access to high-quality components that will not only meet your current needs but also future-proof your setup for many years to come. If you’re not confident in assembling PC yourself perhaps one of your friends who builds their own PCs can help you out. It’s important to mention that buying pre-built PC is generally not recommended as you often pay extra for components that might not be the best match for your needs. However, there are exceptions - some companies offer custom-built PCs where you choose the parts which is a more reliable option.
Currently, the best CPU for gaming in terms of price-to-performance is the AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D. It’s an outstanding CPU specifically for gaming, offering top-tier performance but it’s not recommended for multitasking or heavy workloads outside of gaming.
We shouldn’t forget the competitive Intel i9 14900K either, which is also excellent for gaming.
However, Intel is currently facing some issues with its microcode so at this time I wouldn’t recommend going with Intel.
Long story short, Intel has found that faulty processor microcode has been causing the processors to operate under excessive core voltages. CPU sends a signal to the motherboard indicating how much Vcore it needs at any given moment. Therefore, if there is an issue with the microcode CPU may request higher voltage. This issue was supposed to be fixed with the new microcode 0x129 along with BIOS updates.
That said, Intel will soon release new CPU which might be worth considering once they hit the market.
As for graphics cards there’s only one king: RTX 4090. This incredible card excels at 4K gaming and VR, ensuring smooth gameplay across the board, which I’m sure is what you’re aiming for, right? The only downside to this card is the price - a bit on the high side - but I can confidently say it’s worth every penny. If I had to choose a graphics card again I would go with the RTX 4090 Gaming OC from Gigabyte - an incredible card that I’ve been using for a year. I specifically chose Gigabyte because their GPUs don’t suffer from coil whine which is a major plus.
Additional advantage of this GPU is the inclusion of an anti-sag bracket in the package.
There’s also AMD line of graphics cards but unfortunately their driver issues make them less appealing so I wouldn’t recommend them.
When it comes to RAM (computer memory) it should be selected based on compatibility with the motherboard and CPU. Currently, DDR5 memory and motherboards supporting DDR5 are the standard. Memory modules are also divided into two categories: those dedicated for Intel with XMP profiles (XMP compatible) and those specifically for AMD with EXPO profiles (EXPO compatible).
There are also universal memory kits that support both XMP and EXPO profiles, with Corsair being an example of a manufacturer that produces these. On the other hand, companies like G.Skill produce memory specifically tailored for either Intel or AMD.
Of course there are exceptions. Some G.Skill memory modules are compatible with both XMP and EXPO profiles.
It’s worth mentioning that there is another classification of memory modules. For example, G.Skill produces A-die and M-die memory modules. The key difference between them is that A-die memory typically allows for better tweaking and overclocking compared to M-die.
This detail is crucial because certain timing values won’t work with M-die while they should be fine with A-die.
The power supply (PSU) is one of the most important, if not the most crucial components of a computer. You should never cut costs when it comes to the power supply, and it’s essential to always buy from reputable brands. It’s important to emphasize that cheap, no-name power supplies can damage or even destroy your computer’s components. As I mentioned, you should never compromise on the quality of the power supply.
On various forums you might come across recommendations suggesting that an 850W power supply is sufficient for high-end PC components, including the RTX 4090 - don’t trust those suggestions, please.
PSU should be chosen based on the components you buy now, but more importantly, with an eye on the future. A good, branded PSU should last you for years and it’s important to ensure it can handle future upgrades to your PC.
In the future, new PC components will likely require more wattage for proper functioning. Add to that multiple M.2 drives, SSDs and if you plan to overclock your GPU, CPU or memory an 850W PSU will not be enough. It’s better to go with a 1000W or 1300W power supply that is fully compatible with PCIe 5 and ATX 3.0 standards. Brands like Be Quiet, Corsair, MSI and Thermaltake produce such high-quality power supplies. Personally, I have the MSI MEG Ai1300P, which comes with a 10-year warranty and offers everything I need for both now and the future.
PC case - it’s crucial to choose a case that is spacious enough to accommodate large components such as 420 and 360mm water cooling radiators and heavy, oversized graphics cards.
It’s also important that the PC case can easily accommodate Extended ATX motherboards (E-ATX), which are larger than standard-sized motherboards.
Fan installation options are also important - the more installation points available, the better.
Consider ease of access and maintenance. Choose a case that allows for straightforward cleaning of components without needing to disassemble everything. PC cases like those from Be Quiet, particularly the Silent Base series starting from 802 are known for their ease of cleaning and maintenance.
For example, one feature I really like about the Be Quiet Silent Base 802 case is the removable top tray. This design allows you to install a water cooling radiator and easily clean it without needing to detach the radiator from PC case.
When choosing a monitor you need to consider whether you prioritize matrix speed (refresh rate and response time) or visual effects (color accuracy, HDR and overall image quality).
For a setup with the RTX 4090 and Microsoft Flight Simulator a 4K monitor with HDR and IPS or OLED matrix would be an excellent choice. This combination will enhance your experience and allow you to fully enjoy the immersive visual details of virtual flying.
As you might noticed I didn’t recommend a specific motherboard. The reason for this is that we’re currently waiting for the new AMD X3D series processors and the upcoming Intel CPUs. It’s best to choose the one that meets your needs and performs significantly better in gaming and multitasking benchmarks. Therefore, I advise waiting a bit longer before purchasing the motherboard, CPU and RAM. You have an Xbox console so waiting shouldn’t be too difficult for you 
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Thank you!
I’ve said this in nearly every computer build thread I’ve commented on.
It bears repeating.
I thought MSFS doesn’t play well with HDR, nor do many other games? (asking, I have no idea, I’m just repeating based on a lot of complaints I’ve read from others)
I don’t have HDR, and a pretty low end LG UN557300 4K 55" monitor, and I’m perfectly happy with it. Then again, I’m not an FPS counter, I’ve never had an issue with screen refresh rate bothering me (or even noticing it). So, take my review with appropriate grains (or bottle) of salt. I’m a GA/warbird flyer, and my monitor is mounted about the same distance as an instrument panel would be from me on my desk, and I use freelook to look around (the height of the monitor precludes any head tracking hardware (TrackIR), I tried).
There are users who experience issues with motherboard settings, CPUs and GPUs so I wouldn’t be surprised if there are also users facing problems with monitors and/or HDR
I should have said, they typically say HDR makes it too dark, and I’ve seen oversaturated complaints as well, though that may be general.
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It’s hard for me to comment or relate to what you mentioned because I personally haven’t experienced issues.