New PC to Support MSFS Triple 55" 4K TV Build

@ResetXPDR I had a look at that link on the power supplies - outstanding thanks, very informative. It’s not massive price jump to the RMx so that looks a better option. Are we all confident 1000W is enough for the system? RMx Shift comes in 1200W or would that just be overkill?

@MagicQuasar1176 thanks for that extremely comprehensive input. My computer-savvy friend recommended the Corsair cooler but readily acknowledges he isn’t across the particular requirements of MSFS. I confess the whole cooling thing worries me somewhat, people talk about extra fans all the time - do I need more than just a cooling unit?

Please keep the feedback coming everyone I really appreciate your input this is truly invaluable!

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Most 4090 card makers recommend 1000W for stock or mildly overclocked cards, so 1000W will likely do the job just fine. I was happy using an 850W PSU as my 5800X3D is much lower power than the latest Intel power hogs than can easily use 150W more, but if buying new I would get a 1000W unit just for a bit more headroom.

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https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Platinum-Modular-SST-HA1200R-PM/dp/B0BKQZJ3QK?th=1

It has all the features you want, and is rated Tier 1 by folks who know.

  • ATX 3.0 (it has a 12+6-pin cable for the 4090, and meets 3.0 performance specs.)
  • 1200W to give you transient power draw headroom.
  • Single Rail design. Preferable in a robust PSU.
  • All Japanese electrolytic capacitors.
  • 19% discount on Amazon today.

Don’t forget to buy a UPS. I’d recommend a 1500W unit. Some folks say you don’t need one. I say “Balderdash!” I won’t run a PC without one.

Good luck in your quest.

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My 5800X3D / RTX 3090 Ti system ran fine on an 850W PSU. But I noticed that the computer was drawing close to 700W sometimes. I wanted more headroom, so I replaced it with a 1000W unit. OP’s 4090 draws even more power than the 3090 Ti, so I recommend 1200W, which will run cooler and quieter.

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Well this week i ordered my new system, because the troubles on Xbox X are giving me headache.

Be Quiet Silent Base 802
ATX 3.0 Seasonic Vertex GX 1000w Gold Plus
Asus TUF Z790 Plus Wifi
Intel i9-14900K
Alphacool Eisbaer Pro Aurora 360mm with 3 Noctua A12x25
Kingston Fury Beast 32 GB
Asus TUF 4090
Samsung 990Pro 2 TB NVMe

with a 75" Samsung 4k TV

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Thanks BuzzJungle!

Getting an over-rated psu isn’t going to cause you any problems - it will only provide whatever current your components demand, so you aren’t wasting power or running inefficiently, especially if it’s Gold rated or higher. Getting one that’s underpowered for your needs however, can cause you problems.

I like be quiet because they have something of an eye on future-proofing and product longevity - the Silent Loop cooler can be topped up with (supplied) coolant when some of it inevitably evaporates, and the PSU has a 10 year warranty so I fully expect to move both components into my next pc build, and maybe the one after that too as long as they are still up to heat and power demands.

I really wouldn’t be unduly concerned about cooling, just make sure you address it with a decent quality item. Your 7800X3D should run a bit cooler than my i9, which reaches a maximum of 75 - 80 degrees in MSFS with the 280mm be quiet cooler and fans I have fitted.

The Corsair AIO you already mentioned will be absolutely fine at the core job of keeping your cpu cool, I would merely raise the side-issues that it will be noisy with it’s standard fans, and that the iCUE software will be a bit of a drain on your system.

With a 4090 in there, your superb cpu will still be the bottleneck on your performance (just as the i9 is in mine), so if you can make component choices that free up a little memory or cpu load then you may see slightly better performance in MSFS, but we are only talking tiny fractions here. If you like the look of the Corsair or if you can get a good deal on it then don’t hesitate to get one.

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I have Fan Control too & recommend it as an adjunct to setting fans within your BIOS. Works perfectly with Win 11 & my MSI motherboard. MSI has its own software that one can install in Win 11, but it is incredibly intrusive - sends tons of data to MSI (read the license terms - scary what data they collect, IMO).

I have never overclocked, neither GPUs nor CPUs. IMO, the additional performance benefits do not outweigh the learning curve & work involved to do it correctly, plus potential pitfalls if you do it wrong.

Agreed. As mentioned, I have a bequiet! case, CPU cooler & fans. No problems, super quiet. I’ve not seen anyone reporting problems with this brand. Also, (as per @ MagicQuasar1176), the the Silent Loop cooler can be topped up with (supplied) coolant.

Yes. If cost difference to move up to the 1200W model is insignificant to you, then the extra 200W won’t hurt,
(as per @ MagicQuasar1176)'s very good post above. Otherwise, go with the 1000W.

Cables:
Not mentioned so far. You need to be very careful in your choice of cables connecting your GPU to your 3 monitors.

Your current preferred GPU is the Gigabyte GeForce RTX 4090 Windforce V2 24GB GDDR6X, right? The specs list the outputs as:

  • DisplayPort 1.4a *3
  • HDMI 2.1a *1

Your preferred TV is the Hisense UK7, right? The spec list the inputs as 4 HDMI:

  • HDMI Input HDMI2.0 (ALLM, VRR)
  • HDMI Input HDMI2.0 (ALLM, VRR)
  • HDMI Input HDMI2.1 (eARC, ALLM, VRR, 4K@144Hz)
  • HDMI Input HDMI2.1 (ALLM, VRR, 4K@144Hz)

No mention of any Display Ports. A review of the US model lists 4 HDMI & 0 Display Ports.

So you are going to need (ignoring cable splitters, that I have no experience with) either 3 DP → HDMI cables or 2 DP → HDMI cables + 1 HDMI → HDMI cables, plugging into the HDMI Input HDMI2.1 (ALLM, VRR, 4K@144Hz) port on each of your 3 TVs.

Furthermore, not all cables that hook a GPU to a monitor are the same. To utilize the max. data rate from your DP 1.4a ports (32.4 Gbps Max Transmission Rate, 25.92 Gbps Max Data Rate) and / or HDMI 2.1 port (48.0 Gbps / 42.6 Gbps), you’ll need to get cables that can handle those data rates. Because you’ll be having a lot of cables behind your PC & monitors, I recommend that the cables be shielded (to avoid interference). Also, with 3 monitors, the length of cable needs calculated based on the position of the HDMI inputs on the 3 TVs & where your PC will be placed relative to them. A “standard” 6-foot cable may not be long enough. Note that officially, the maximum length of a DisplayPort cable is up to 3m (9.8 feet). One of the big advantages of HDMI is that high quality HDMI cables can be up to 15m (49.2 feet) in length — five times longer than DisplayPort.

If you post a link to the cables you intend to purchase, the community here can review & chime in with any problems they might see with them (or give better options!).

@SmotheryVase665 thanks for that extremely valuable post. You are quite right I had not considered cabling at all. Now I am nervous! I’m not sure I fully understand and I want to make sure I don’t accidently limit myself or lock out functionality.

Am I right in saying that if I want to get the most out of these TVs I need to use the HDMI 2.1 input? As you have pointed out, the 4090 selected only has one HDMI 2.1 out port. How do I address this issue - are there cards that will have four HDMI ports - or am I misunderstanding how this works?

I’d like to understand this issue properly before moving onto specific cabling.

Thanks everyone I cannot emphasise how useful your input has been!

If the TV is built the same as the US model (it probably is - your model # is slightly different than ours as it is for the Australian Market), then according to the review linked in my previous post, “The TV has HDMI 2.1 bandwidth on HDMI ports 3 and 4, with both supporting up to 4k @ 144Hz. Unfortunately, HDMI 3 is the eARC port, so you lose one HDMI 2.1 port when you plug a soundbar into the TV.”

The TV only has HDMI inputs for the cable from your GPU. The TV has no DisplayPort (DP) inputs that you can plug into. You are going to run 3 cables from your GPU, one to each TV.

Since your GPU has only one HDMI output, you HAVE to use at least two of the DisplayPort 1.4a outputs. In other words:

  • Cable #1 goes from GPU DP #1 output → to → TV #1 HDMI port #4 input
  • Cable #2 goes from GPU DP #2 output → to → TV #2 HDMI port #4 input
    and either:
  • Cable #3 goes from GPU DP #3 output → to → TV #3 HDMI port #4input
    or
  • Cable #3 goes from GPU HDMI 2.1 output → to → TV #3 HDMI port #4input

Since you only are going to plug one cable from your GPU into each TV, for the best performance options (below), you’re going to plug it into the TVs port that allows has the most bandwidth, which is HDMI port #4 (HDMI2.1 (ALLM, VRR, 4K@144Hz)). That leaves the TVs port #3 free for a soundbar, if you want to add external speakers, and ports 1 & 2 free for any other HDMI-compatible device you might want to plug into the TV at some point in the future.

The TV supports a number of resolutions (listed in the review), but for MSFS the ones we are interested in are:
a) 4k @ 60Hz
b) 4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4
c) 4k @ 120Hz
d) 4k @ 120Hz @ 4:4:4
(The 4:4:4 option is useful for ClearType text display for PC productivity and gaming with fine text.)

Both the DP & HDMI outputs support 4k @ 60Hz. 4K @ 120Hz is supported with Display Stream Compression 1.2 (see this article), but I could not find out if the GPU support this. Perhaps others might know the answer to this.

HDMI 2.1 supports both 4k @ 60Hz & 4k @ 120Hz, so at least one of your TVs could run at 4k @ 120Hz if you chose:
Cable #3 from GPU HDMI 2.1 output → to → TV #3 HDMI 2.1 port #4 input.

There are various opinions as to whether running MSFS at 60 Hz or 120 Hz makes an appreciable difference. Higher rates provides smoother motion, but some say the human eye cannot detect the difference, while others disagree! :face_with_raised_eyebrow:

So what does this mean for your cables?
Since, officially, the maximum length of a DisplayPort cable is up to 3m (9.8 feet), you should plan your TV layout such that the HDMI ports at the back of at least two of the TVs are no further than 3m from the GPU outputs at the back of the PC, following whatever path you want your cables to follow. If the 3rd TV is more than 3m away, then using the HDMI output - to - HMDI input option would address that problem.

With me still? :smiley:
Now, cables can be bi-directional or uni-directional. As the names suggest, signals in a bi-directional cable can travel in both directions, but only one way in uni-directional cables.

Since your signals travel from the GPU to the monitor, If you choose uni-directional cables, the signal traffic MUST be FROM Display Port TO HDMI.
So, you’ll need:

  • For TV #1, a Display Port 1.4 or 1.4a 4K 32.4 Gbps to HDMI shielded cable.
    Or a Display Port 2.0 or 2.1 4K 80.0 Gbps to HDMI shielded cable (overspec’d for your GPU, but will work)
  • For TV #2, another cable, identical to that for TV#1
  • For TV #3, another cable, identical to that for TV#1
    or a HDMI 2.1 48.0 Gbps to HDMI shielded cable.
    [Edited 01/19 to remove the words “input & output” for the cable descriptions above which, on re-reading, could be confusing]

OK, apologies for the super-long post, but there was lots to cover. PLEASE, can others review what I’ve written & point out any errors, especially if you have a 3-monitor 4K setup. I do not guarantee that what I understand is necessarily true, as I do not have 3 4K monitors myself, and so am not speaking from personal experience. Thanks! :grinning:

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@SmotheryVase665 Amazing thanks. I think I will need to read this several times to absorb it fully. I really appreciate you putting the time and effort into this!

I was going to mention the importance of cables, but I see that @SmotheryVase665 has already gone into a fair bit of detail on that front.

My setup is a triple monitor (well, six actually) 4K setup using Hisense 50" screens.

I cann’t tell you how important the cables are. It took me ages to figure out why I was getting slightly different shades a blue sky in MSFS across the three identical TVs - Turns out it was due to three different DP - > HDMI cables. I purchased 3 good quality DP → HDMI cables off Amazon and the change in colors went away…subtle tho they were.

The only other thing Id add which I didn’t consider when I got my TV’s, was the gloss or shine on them. In a dark room, the image reflection from the left and right shines of the other. If there was a way to prevent that now I’d jump at it because its rather annoying on a night flight. Not sure if the TV’s you’re looking at have a matt finish or not…but its something I’d recommend.

I’m running a 7950X3D with a moderate undervolt and a stock as a rock 4090. 1000W PSU. I’ve water cooled both my CPU and GPU but thats overkill and not required for MSFS.

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@ Airbumps2501:
Nice setup! Good point about the reflections. What are the two vertical posts either side of your yoke for? I’m guessing that they are for some sort of attachment, or are they there for you to hang on to, should you find yourself & your aircraft plummeting earthward… :scream:

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@Airbumps2501 fantastic setup! Looks similar to what I am trying to acheive. I’m going Hisense 55s - good point though on the reflectiveness I will look into it.

Can I ask you a few questions:

(1) what were those cables you ended up going with? There are so many out there so would prefer to go with something I know works for someone with a similar buiild. Also what length - I am thinking 3m is probably safest.

(2) What is your sound setup … looks beefy. I haven’t thought too much about sound but keen to look into this.

(3) I’m very keen to use Stream Deck too which I see you are using, what has your experience been with it? I am thinking I’ll go with a plus for comms panel since it has the knobs and the XL for everything else.

(4) Stands - which TV stands are you using?

(5) Power - noted on the PSU, what about actual sockets - running all off one or multiple powerboards? Surge protection?

Thanks - great to see another setup very similar to what I am looking to build.

Hey @SmotheryVase665

Those two side posts have now been trimmed to allign with the height of the horizontal section thats holding the Fanatec wheel.

The setup is based on this setup from Next Level Racing…albeit i customised a bit… i cut off the top 10" of the vertical poles as they where getting in the way of the monitors.

Thanks @ Airbumps2501. I had no idea racing cockpits had become so sophisticated!

Hi @BuzzJungle

1 - Cables I ended up with where these

https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B08TGBLLXY/ref=syn_sd_onsite_mobileweb_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pd_rd_plhdr=t&aref=erl3N8vUx1

2 - For sound I purchased the Logitech Z906 5.1 system. Connected via optical cable. Once setup correctly in Windows has been faultless.

3 - Streamdeck is amazing. Ive got the XL…If they made a bigger one id have got that. Its dead easy to use and thanks to people like @guenseli there are heaps of amazing profiles for it!

4 - I went with another NLR product. Im not aure how succesful id have been mounting three 50" monitors on a desk!

5 - Theres a hell of a lot of power draw on this systen. The room will hit 30c without AC running. 6 monitors, the PC, Powered USB hub, sound system, butt kicker…thats 10 plugs i can think off without being in front of the actual system. Ive got them spread accross six different outlets in the vague hope that shares the electrical load!!

Im pretty happy with how the set-up is working. Only thing id like is to move the Warthog HOTAS to the left… i have a Honeycomb Alpha i can use but i find the verical axis to stiff and prefer the handling of the Warthog. Would just like to put it on the left…

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Hi all well I am getting close to the final spec. Taking on board much of the fantastic advice so far, it’s currently looking like this:

AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 8 Core 16 Thread Up To 5.0GHz AM5
Gigabyte GeForce RTX 4090 Windforce V2 24GB GDDR6X
Corsair Corsair RM1200x Shift 1200W Gold ATX Modular PSU
be quiet! Silent Loop 2 280mm cooler
Corsair 64GB Kit (2x32GB) DDR5 Vengeance C32 6400MT/s - Black
ASUS ROG Strix B650E-E Gaming WiFi AM5 ATX Desktop Motherboard
Samsung 980 Pro PCIe Gen4 NVMe M.2 SSD - 1x 1TB, 1x 2TB

I still don’t have a case option though so would again welcome thoughts on this. Also is this cooling sufficient or do I need to specify additional fans? I’m probably going to ask a firm to custom build and test this - I don’t have the confidence or knowledge to buy the components individually and assemble myself. Any of you Australians reading the thread can you recommend a company to do the build?

Update - I got a response back almost immediately from PLE Computers with a quote, impressive. They have recommended a case and also a RAM change - this is what they said, since you have all been so awesome would appreciate confirming or contrasting thoughts:

  • For the memory, I have swapped it to a Kingston kit, as the previous Corsair kit is not AMD EXPO certified, meaning there is no guarantee that it will run stable at its rated clock speed.

Kingston 64GB Kit (2x32GB) DDR5 Fury Beast AMD EXPO C36 6000MHz - Black | PLE Computers

  • For this case, I have selected a be quiet! SILENT BASE 802. A high-quality case with good airflow and a quiet case.

be quiet! SILENT BASE 802 Mid Tower Case - Black | PLE Computers

What city are you in mate?

I’d go for (and did myself) try and get RAM with slightly tighter timings…you can get 6000MHZ RAM at C30. Buy G.Skill Ripjaws S5 64GB (2x32GB) 6000MHz CL30 DDR5 [GS-F5-6000J3040G32GX2-RS5W] | PC Case Gear Australia

You probably don’t need 64GB just for MSFS, but that’s what I went with for a bit of future proofing and because I run a bunch of other software concurrently to MSFS.

No issues with the case… as long as your chosen cooling system and the 4090 will fit…

I’m in Canberra.

Thanks on the RAM.

On the case, that’s what PLE is recommending so I assume they wouldn’t recommend a case that wouldn’t fit everything?

Is there anything I have missed that I need to get them to include? I assume all the components have the relevant internal cabling or do I need to worry about that too?>