PC: Just what is causing that CTD? - A possible solution

Whilst responding to a plea for advice in recent thread, I got to wondering as to just
how many CTD’s are attributable to failing and/or just plainly under specified PSU’s.

PSU’s are too often treated as an afterthought when considering a PC system in the round.
This is flawed thinking!
A good quality, appropriately specified PSU is as important [albeit not as sexy]
and as integral to your systems performance and long term reliability as the
Mobo, CPU and GPU etc.
To be clear: an incorrectly specced PSU can transform an otherwise perfectly reliable system
into a glitch giving, possibly CTD ridden, pariah of a machine that will ultimately disappoint.

This then is a guide to all those [particularly those new to our hobby] who have never
given their PSU the due consideration it deserves.

So, you find yourself in the market for a shiny new PSU, eh? Well, don’t turn the process
into a lottery! Consider the following:

i. The source:
Has the PSU been produced by a known and respected maker? And, are you buying it from
a known and respected supplier? -There’s a lot of c**p out there. Don’t be tempted!

ii. The physical specification:
Size matters! Avoid that potential ‘home goal’ by making sure it will actually, physically
fit into your case. - modern PSU’s are universal with regard to screwing in.

iii. The Electrical specification [1]:
PSU’s are normally classed in terms of the manufacturers rated Wattage*.
Very sensible! Because this PSU Wattage is, when compared to your total system Wattage**,
the primary indicator as to which PSU is right for your system.
But know this: the PSU’s rated Wattage MUST ALWAYS EXCEED the total system Wattage.

iv. The Electrical specification [2]:
Make sure your PSU has at least two busses or rails [this is in effect as if there are
multiple PSU’s in the one case]. - As far as I know all modern GPU’s require these
‘split’ rail power lines to operate reliably.

v. Optional:
And finally, do yourself a big favour. Buy a PSU that has non-tethered [plug-in-able] cabling.

  • So much better if you desire that ‘clean’ and finished look to your installation.

  • The Wattage can be derived simply from: Amps x Volts = Watts.
    So, for our purposes, Amps is the required power output of the PSU and Volts is the voltage of
    your countries domestic mains supply.

** The total system Wattage is quite simply the sum of all the manufactures rated
Wattages for each and every individual component [CPU, GPU, RAM, Storage devices, etc]
that require power and are a part of your system.


Notes:-

Consider this hypothetical case: two identical car engines - rated for a maximum speed of say
120 mph - are set up to run indefinitely. Engine A is set up to run at a constant 30 mph,
whilst engine B will run at a constant 100 mph. Their respective speeds are then, the only difference!
And the result of all this contriving? Not only does engine B ‘experience’ far more stress
than it’s slower doppelganger but, all things being equal, engine B will also suffer a catastrophic
failure far sooner.
This analogy is directly applicable to all PSU’s when under load!
Thus, I strongly recommend you make sure your PSU is over specified.
If, for example, your TS Wattage is say 500 watts then don’t use a 550 Watt PSU!
A 650 or 750 watt PSU would be a far wiser choice.

You will, of course, have to pay a little more for all this PSU goodness.
But what price long term reliability?
I bought my own [1000 Watt] PSU 4 years ago! It was then, and remains now, healthily over specified.
It has delivered countless hours of quiet and reliable performance.
And will, I fully expect, survive my next upgrade and continue to give me peace of mind
for the foreseeable future.

There are many TS Wattage and PSU Wattage calculators to be found on-line these days.
These can be very useful. but use more than one as a crosscheck, eh.

As always I urge you all to do your own research.
Don’t just rely on anything as written here. Maybe I have missed something.
Maybe I have raised points ripe for debate.
And, as always when researching on-line, beware of the peddlers of anything oily that has been
extracted from a snake!


Addendum:
In this post I invited others to offer additions/corrections to anything deemed misleading
or erroneous. And in an effort - for ease of reading - to keep any points raised at the top
of the pile, as it were, I will try to keep abreast of any developments and incorporate them
immediately below.


Good evidence [as provided by Aeluwas] proves that point iv above is no longer applicable and can be ignored.


2 Likes

I don’t deny that PSUs COULD cause CTDs, but it seems unlikely. Most have protections built-in that will shutdown before these types of issues arise. More than likely a CTD is caused by either a software-level issue, or exacerbated by hardware-related issues. For example, an overclocked GPU can cause a CTD.

In the case of underspecified PSUs relative to the required power, the OPP/OCP protections are likely to kick in long before PSU instability actually becomes a concern. Most high-quality PSUs can peak at a wattage as high as 120% of the maximum-rated wattage before the OPP kicks in. That’s not to say you should make it a habit of loading your PSU at 100% its rated max wattage, but rather most can take some degree of overloading in the short-term. You would usually get a complete system shutdown before a CTD in this type of scenario.

my system is ‘over powered’ with PSU and have a CTD now and then. sound starts to stutter , screen freezes then CTD. i restart msfs and then fly for 4 hours without a hitch . for me it’s super random.

This is outdated advice. There are tons of good single-rail PSUs these days, and there are no issues running high-end GPUs on them.

Or simply have a look at the LTT forums PSU tier list, and see how many (a large percentage of the highest-recommended PSUs) have a single 12V rail:

2 Likes

Agreed a solid PSU is important and you do need to buy quality. My modest XFX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Single Rail has continued to serve me well over the last 10 years. My RTX2060S, i5-9600K, 1xSSD/4xHDD/1xDVD, 6xfans, etc., are ably, even amply (pun intended), powered by it. Even after researching PSUs at the time, I knew I’d got it right when it was delivered - weighing in at 7lb it really helps system stabilty (the tower ain’t gonna fall over with that in its base!) though I do miss the modular cables of my previous 500Watter.

1 Like

Thanks for your time when providing this info.
I have incorporated it, and an acknowledgement, into an addendum.

Regards.

Haha. Excellent
That’s the kind of stability we ALL need.

Regards.

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Mostly been

  1. USB, the binding profiles
  2. audio drivers, switching default audio
  3. graphics card driver bug / VR bug / Windows mixed reality portal bug / OpenXR bug

OpenXR and MRP are updated about every week and its hit and miss every time, faster when it works, crash when it doesn’t. Its really dumb.