Pee-Wee and Nag Over Southwest Cambridgeshire
RAF Bassingbourn, Part One
Welcome back, fellow explorers! We hope you all enjoyed a wonderful holiday season. Pee-Wee and I sure did!
Pee-Wee says: Right up until we both caught the stomach flu. Ugh. For three days my stomach was like the stock market in 2007: extremely unsettled and everybody wanted out.
You had a worse case than me, which didn’t seem fair since I’m the one that brought it home from work. Sorry about that.
Pee-Wee says: Well, you were very sweet and took great care of me after you’d recovered, so thank you. When a guy volunteers to hold your hair back while you’re barfing in the toilet, it must be love.
Sounds like the beginning of a country song. Anyway…let’s get started!
The first two movies Pee-Wee and I ever watched together are the wonderful period drama 12 O’Clock High and the closely related documentary The Memphis Belle: A Story of a Flying Fortress. They’re both freely available on YouTube if you haven’t seen them. Make sure to find one of the “AI 4K upscaled” versions of The Memphis Belle.
Pee-Wee says: Those two films alone sparked my interest in aviation archaeology. When Stovall steps onto the dark, abandoned runway at “Archbury” and crosses the threshold between war and peace, a solid line running out to the horizon…oh, I get goosebumps every time!
It’s funny: I know virtually nothing of the Belle’s real story outside of the documentary. My guess is that you’ve researched her and the base from where she flew during the war.
Pee-Wee says: Indeed I have! She flew with the 91st Bombardment Group at RAF Bassingbourn in the southwest of Cambridgeshire, near the border with Hertfordshire. You know what’s really cool about that?
Do tell.
Pee-Wee says: Bassingbourn is only seven miles west of Duxford.
Really.
Pee-Wee says: Yup. Six minutes by air.
Hmm…
Pee-Wee says: …and away we go!
We’ll break this tour into two parts. First we’ll tour the area around the Bassingbourn Barracks (formerly RAF Bassingbourn) and discuss the station’s history. The second part will include more personal details, crew information, and details about the aircraft and sites from The Memphis Belle: A Story of a Flying Fortress (which from here on we’ll refer to as the Documentary).
Special thanks to the 91st Bomb Group Memorial Association for maintaining some of the most complete online records we’ve ever seen, and for bringing their members’ stories to light. Also, a huge thanks to Mr. Nick Jones, Administrator of the Parish Church of St. Peter & St. Paul, Bassingbourn for his invaluable assistance.
DISCLAIMER (Insert scary “bum bum bum” music here):
Pee-Wee says: Nag and I waited eighteen months for FS2020’s kinks to be worked out before upgrading from the previous version, and we’re doing the same with FS2024. So if you’re using FS2024, what you see in the sim may differ from what we see. It should be close, but we make no guarantees. Thanks!
Getting There: Duxford to Bassingbourne
The former RAF Bassingbourn lies exactly seven nautical miles from Duxford on a magnetic track of 273 degrees. It’s pretty easy to find: one of Microsobo’s out-of-place windmills stands in the village just southwest of the air base and is visible from Duxford.
Pee-Wee says: Our flying time enroute really was only six minutes. Why didn’t we do this sooner?
Got sidetracked, I guess. Care to tell the readers what they’ll find along the way?
Pee-Wee says: Gladly! Shortly after takeoff you’ll pass Duxford’s sister station, (1) RAF Fowlmere. The field was expanded in 1943 with paved runways, taxiways, and hangars to accommodate the P-51s of the USAAC’s 339th Fighter Group. It went into caretaker status after the war and was returned to farmland in the late 1950s. Today the single grass strip sees only general aviation aircraft, including those of locally based Modern Air and the British Aerobatic Academy. If you feel like dropping in, the airport’s website has all the information you need.
Flying activities at Fowlmere began in World War I when a substantial pilot and bombardier training field was constructed here. However, that airfield lay on the opposite side of the road from today’s so, technically speaking, they’re not the same.
Pee-Wee says: Oh, I almost forgot! The airfield is also home to the Fowlmere Airfield Museum. This little gem is open to the public only one sunday a month, and while upcoming days are listed on the “Join Us” page of the website, it’s probably best to call or email ahead.
Here (2) is Fowlmere itself, population about 1,200. There’s not much to say about this quaint village: it boasts a 16th Century pub that is mentioned in Samuel Pepys diary, and was struck by one of 104 tornados that touched down in southern England on 23 January 1981, the largest tornado outbreak in European history.
Before any of our readers from Kansas chime in with “104 tornadoes? We call that Tuesday!” let’s put that outbreak into perspective. Imagine tornados striking northern Maine…in the dead of winter. And let’s not forget that slate and thatched roofs and four-hundred-year-old buildings aren’t exactly “tornado proof.” Thankfully, there were no fatalities.
Pee-Wee says: This is the (3) 40-hectare Fowlmere Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) Nature Reserve. Established in 1977 on the site of former watercress farms, the reserve now harbors a significant assortment of birds, including a large number of kingfishers. Waterfowl of all sorts once thrived in this area, hence the name “Fowlmere” (Old English: fowl + mere, “bird lake.”).
(4) This area appears to be agricultural fields or perhaps a tree farm. Be careful not to confuse it for the more southerly solar power farm immediately west of Fowlmere Airfield.
Pee-Wee says: That’ll lead you astray! Good news: you should be able to easily find the village of Melbourn just beyond. This village of 4,700 boasts its own primary and secondary schools, a small college, and a science park hosting companies as varied as a cellular phone technology provider and a medical diagnostic laboratory. You should pass just north of the village but be careful: Melbourn is on the south side of the A10 highway, while smaller Meldreth is on the north. Getting lost in only seven miles would be embarrassing (and rightfully so).
If all else fails, you should see (6) Royston, a large town in Hertfordshire at the intersection of the ancient Icknield Way and Ermine Street (the A1198). We won’t fly over Royston, but it’s a great landmark, as Bassingbourn lies north of town on the A1198.
We’ve only flown a few miles, but we’re in a different hemisphere now. Yes, you’ll cross the Prime Meridian just west of Melbourn. Surprise!
Pee-Wee says: That’s some serious globetrotting! Anyway, by now you should definitely see (7) the misplaced windmill south of (8) Bassingbourn. We’ll leave it to you to navigate from here!
The Target for Today: RAF Bassingbourn / Bassingbourn Barracks
Skyvector: 520550N0000330W
MSFS: 52.0972 -0.0583
The history of RAF Bassingbourn may be divided into five phases.
Construction (1937-38)
Construction began in April 1937. Drainage was a constant concern: new foundations would often settle into the soggy ground before construction of the buildings themselves began. The original airfield consisted of a single turf landing ground with perimeter track and four Type C hangars, plus an administration and quarters area to the south. With its modern buildings, curbed roadways, and neatly arranged plum trees, Bassingbourn became something of a “show-piece” station.
Royal Air Force: RAF Bassingbourn (1938-42)
104 and 108 Squadrons arrived in May 1938 and began training pilots in the new Bristol Blenheim light bomber, but after war erupted the following year, a reshuffling of forces brought 215 Squadron (later 11 Operational Training Unit) and the Vickers Wellington medium bomber to Bassingbourn. Training continued unabated until October 1943, with only a brief pause between December 1942 and February 1942 when flying temporarily transferred to nearby RAF Tempsford while Bassingbourn’s new concrete runways were built. With its combat fleet and crew ranks wearing thin, the RAF often impressed OTU aircraft and crews for combat missions over Europe, including the “1,000 Plane Raid” to Cologne in May 1942. Bassingbourn itself was bombed several times, and five OTU Wellingtons were shot down by Luftwaffe raiders.
U.S. Army Air Corps: Air Force Station 121 (1942-45)
Bassingbourn was handed over to the USAAC’s 8th Air Force in October 1942, and the 91st Bombardment Group (Heavy) arrived later that month. The Group’s four squadrons–the 322nd, 323rd, 324th, and 401st Bombardment Squadrons (Heavy)–attacked targets throughout Western Europe until V-E Day and then assisted in repatriating POWs until returning to the United States in July. Between April and May 1943, the fledgling 94th Bombardment Group (Heavy) joined the 91st at Bassingbourn until moving to its permanent home at RAF Earls Colne.
Pee-Wee says: Memphis Belle was one of the 324th Bombardment Squadron’s original B-17Fs delivered at Bangor, Maine on the last day of August 1942. Within a year she would return heroically to the United States and secure her place in history. We’ll talk more about her and some of her sisters in Part Two.
Royal Air Force: RAF Bassingbourn…Again (1945-1969)
RAF Transport Command was Bassingbourn’s major tenant post-war until the arrival of 231 Operational Conversion Unit in 1952, and for the next seventeen years the air base was the English Electric Canberra “schoolhouse.” The OCU relocated to RAF Cottesmore in Summer 1969, ending Bassingbourn’s days as a flying station.
Royal Army: Bassingbourn Barracks (1970-Present)
The Queen’s Division, Royal Army took control of Bassingbourn in December 1969, and the next forty-three years saw thousands of fresh recruits complete their basic training at Bassingbourn Barracks. The final classes graduated in 2012, but the Barracks reopened again briefly in 2014 to train Libyan soldiers, an affair that ended badly for everyone involved. We won’t delve into that here.
Today the Bassingbourn Barracks houses the Mission Ready Training Centre (MRTC), a school for soldiers and sailors preparing for overseas deployments and remains a vital cog in the Ministry of Defense’s training machine.
Satellite Imagery
Google / Airbus
Pee-Wee says: Let’s get an overview of the airfield before we start the tour. On the left is an aerial photo of RAF Bassingbourn taken near the war’s end in 1945, with a photo of the same area today on the right. There isn’t much of Bassingbourn’s airfield remaining, most of the concrete having been recycled since regular flying ended here in 1969. Very little remains northwest of the intersection of Runway 7/25 and 17/35, and Runway 13/31 is completely gone. A new infield taxiway and ramp area was built to accommodate 231 OCU’s Canberras and now serves the 2484 Squadron Air Training Corps. Most of the original buildings south of the hangars are still in use, and many seem to be remarkably unchanged since the war.
Before we go any further, let’s clarify something: the air base and village name is pronounced “BASS-ing-born,” like the fish.
And here we are! There’s no photogrammetry in this area, only autogen buildings, and they’re pretty underwhelming. The three remaining hangars are represented by warehouses, and there’s a random and completely inaccurate assortment of Tudor-style homes dotting the airfield. It definitely looks better from a distance.
Pee-Wee says: Each of the 91st Bomb Group’s squadrons was assigned one of four lettered dispersal areas: (A) was the 324th Bomb Squadron’s. Only one “pan” dispersal remains here, and several online sites state with certainty that it was permanently assigned to the Memphis Belle. I’ve been unable to find any documentation supporting that statement, and it may be a case of sites all using each other for reference. Judge for yourself! (B) The 401st Bomb Squadron occupied Area B, (C) the 322nd Area C, and (D) the 323rd Area D located across the A1198 in the southernmost portion of the Wimpole Estate’s 2-mile (3.2-kilometer) long grand avenue.
Food for thought: During World War 2, Bassingbourn’s 6,100-foot (1,860-meter) Runway 7/25 was considered long, but was barely half the length of Wimpole’s grand avenue. Today, if Denver International Airport’s Runway 16R/34L was placed atop the grand avenue, it would extend another mile beyond the estate house itself. How times–and aviation–have changed!
The (1) ammunition dump (“somewhere in Europe,” according to the Documentary) occupied much of the northwest quadrant of the airfield. Portions of (2) Runway 17/35 and the longer (3) Runway 7/25 are smooth and available for landings in MSFS. The clear portion of 17/35 is 1,600 feet (488 meters) long while 7/25 is 2,400 feet (732 meters) long with trees at both ends. Be careful!
Pee-Wee says: We’re north of the airfield looking south now, and you can see (1) the south end of the Wimpole Estate’s grand avenue on which nine B-17s once parked. None of the wartime pavement remains today. Across the A1198 is a collection of former farm buildings now in use as shops. You’ll see these same buildings at the beginning of the Documentary, and also two B-17s parked at the (2) neighboring dispersal pads, both of which remain in use today as parking lots.
In the distance is (3) Royston, with (4) Bassingbourn just beyond the airfield. Watch out for the silly windmill over there: its blades reach to 1,600 feet (488 meters) MSL. The (5) Vine Farm Solar Farm was completed in March 2016 and is another great landmark for finding the old airfield from the north.
Pee-Wee says: Here we are passing over the A1198 and the former taxiway that crossed the road to Dispersal Area D. A small length of the original security fence stands here, albeit supplemented by a more modern gate with CCTV.
I wonder if the people driving by this spot know its significance?
Pee-Wee says: I’m sure some do, but for everyone else there’s a sign! In 1997 the 91st Bomb Group Memorial Association erected a marker nearby. Finding it takes a little effort: park in the (1) layby across from the security fence and follow the path through the trees and across the grand avenue. The (2) memorial will be on your right.
This was Pee-Wee’s favorite spot to see, since it remains generally unchanged from the Summer of 1943 when the Documentary was filmed. That’s the remains of the 322nd Bomb Squadron’s Dispersal Area C down there.
Pee-Wee says: The (1) taxiway leading to the perimeter track ran just north of this treeline. Today this field appears to be used for remote control airplane flying, possibly the last flying activity that will ever happen here! Four dispersals are visible, including the one on which B-17F 42-5178 “LG-L” is parked in the documentary’s opening scene, as is (3) the neighboring farm. This is the only location where you can stand on the exact spot seen in the Documentary. I think that’s pretty awesome!
Over here is (4) the grand avenue again. The northernmost pad was located just this side of the public bridleway that winds its way southeastward from here to the village of Whaddon. The Delta Rebel No. 2, one of the first 8th Air Force bombers to complete twenty-five combat missions, parked here, as did The Careful Virgin, an airplane we’ll hear more about in Part Two.
In this photo we’ve circled back over the airfield proper. You’ll have to use your imagination with the autogen buildings, and as always in MSFS, there’s too many trees. (1) Here’s the A1198 running along the field’s eastern perimeter south to Royston. Named Ermine Street (Old English: Earninga Strǣt), the highway was originally built by the Romans to connect Londinium (London) with Lindum Colonia (Lincoln) and Eboracum (York). A seventy-five-year-old airfield next to a road laid by Ancient Romans near a college that opened in 1209 A.D.? And I thought the 1940s house I once lived in was old.
Pee-Wee says: The airfield’s original control tower was in use throughout the air base’s flying years and still stands just outside the perimeter track (2) here. From 1974 it housed the Tower Museum Bassingbourn, one of very few private museums in England located on a military installation. Alas, in January 2020 the MoD decided that the museum was “…no longer compatible with operational training output or indeed, the security of the barracks…” and terminated the lease. The museum’s artifacts and documents were either returned to their owners or stored somewhere within the Barracks. A membership letters said that volunteers were searching for another home, but there’s been no word in four years. I’m afraid that, as more and more war veterans pass away, the impetus for rebuilding the museum has been lost. By the way, the building was apparently under consideration for transfer to the Military Aviation Museum in Virginia Beach, but the RAF Goxhill watch office was chosen instead.
Pee-Wee says: I love this photo of an unidentified B-17F buzzing the tower at Bassingbourn.
Some captions say the aircraft is Memphis Belle
after completing her twenty-five missions, but I find that suspect. Most of the people below are wearing cold weather gear, and Belle
finished her tour during Summer. Does anyone know the identity of this sporty Fortress?
Today Bassingbourn Barracks also hosts the (3) Air Cadets of 2484 Squadron Air Training Corps. The Air Cadets is like the Civil Air Patrol cadet program on steroids, teaching skills from land navigation and marksmanship to drill and music. While the Air Cadets may log time in the RAF’s fleet of Grob trainers, there is no flying at Bassingbourn.
This large (4) infield ramp was constructed post-war and was once filled with 231 OCU Canberras. If you’re flying something with a healthier appetite for runway, this taxiway is smooth and 2,400 feet (732 meters) long. For you rotorheads, there’s a helipad on the concrete apron just above and left of our Stearman’s vertical stabilizer.
Pee-Wee says: Canberra PR.7 WJ821, damaged in an accident at RAF Wyton in 1981, was once on display (5) here but has since been removed. Look carefully and you’ll see the small concrete pads that supported her. Surprisingly, the Internet has no further information about the old girl: she seems to have vanished! Do you know her whereabouts? Please leave a note.
Pee-Wee says: Here we are turning east over Bassingbourn cum Kneesworth, and how lovely it seems from the air! According to the monthly Village Voice,
there are 1,500 households in this parish. The name references the Saxon lord “Bassa” who settled on the stream nearby.
(For our American friends, here’s a quick primer: in England, a civil parish is the lowest level of local government, and may include one or more hamlets, villages, towns, or cities. They’re different from ecclesiastical parishes, which are administrative areas established by the Roman Catholic Church. A hamlet is a small settlement while a village is a larger settlement with a parish church. A town is an even larger settlement with a market, while a city may be a large town that’s been granted city status by the Crown. However, there are market towns that are larger than small cities, and villages without churches. It’s all rather unofficial and confusing or, said another way, British.
I’ve flown British airplanes, so I completely understand overly complicated designs! In Bassingbourn you’ll find (1) The Belle freehouse, a “contemporary country pub restaurant” with decor paying homage to everyone’s favorite B-17. It seems nice, if too modern for my taste. For $16 (€14.95) the fish and chips better be good.
Pee-Wee says: Pop quiz! What makes Bassingbourn a village? (You’d better not say “I don’t know,” because that paragraph up there took some time to get right. ) If you said “a parish church,” you’re correct! Here is the Grade II listed (2) Parish Church of St. Peter & St. Paul, Bassingbourn. Construction of the present flint and stone rubble building began in the 13th Century, and it’s been rebuilt once or twice since then. It’s currently undergoing a major interior restoration and should welcome visitors again early next year. If you’re in the area, I’m sure the Rev. Orr or Nick, the Administrator, would be happy to show you around. (Thanks again, Nick. You’re a doll! )
The Parish Council refers to (3) this area as the “causeway.” It’s hard to see from this angle, but it really is a thinly populated area–almost a land bridge–that connects Bassingbourn with (4)
Kneesworth. A Saxon hamlet, Kneesworth was added to the Bassingbourn civil parish in the 1960s.
Whew! I think that’s about it for Part One. Anything to add?
Pee-Wee says: I don’t think so. I’m already working on Part Two, but it’ll take me a few days to finish. There’s a lot left to show everyone!
Hopefully I’ll be back in three days to help. I’m supposed to overnight near Los Angeles, but the fires may force some schedule changes.
Pee-Wee says: If you’re one of the people affected, remember this: property can be replaced, but lives can’t. Please keep your heads up, observe any evacuation orders, and remember that wildfires always move much faster than you think.
Well said. That’s it for this installment! Come back soon for Part Two, and remember that we love to hear from you, especially with positive feedback.
Pee-Wee says: Yes I do!
She really does. Personally, I think she was a golden retriever in a previous life.
Pee-Wee says: Probably.
No snide retort about being compared to a dog?
Pee-Wee says: Nope. Golden retrievers are beautiful, intelligent, and loving companions, just like me.
Good night, everyone.
Pee-Wee says: