Power Supply problem

PC Specs :

i5 10600k (OC at 4.8 Ghz @1.3v
RTX 2070 SUPER +80 on the core clock on afterburner
32 GB RAM
EVGA 700 W 80+ Bronze PSU non modular
(had to cheap out b/c PSU prices were through the roof when I built this PC.)

I just started having this problem where after a certain period of time on the sim, my PC would shut off and turn back on. No blue screen of death. Just a reboot basically. I can only figure my PSU can’t keep up. Also upgraded to Windows 11 fwiw.

I was wondering how quality of a PSU I should buy to feel safe running this game for extended periods. Guessing anything gold and above and 700 W or higher?

Have you taken a look in the Windows Event Manager to see if there are any events entered at the time of shutdown?

1 Like

Negative. I’ve actually never used that before.

Would be good to take a peak in there and see if an event gets created and if so what’s in there (event ID type, message, Etc…).

There’s a quick guide in the event you are unsure how to get in there.

1 Like

If you’re PSU is defective, all bets are off and you could see all sorts of issues like this.

But if it’s working per design, a 700W supply should be more than enough for that setup. Bronze just refers to efficiency. A 700W Bronze and 700W Gold are both rated to 700W

1 Like

Check the temperature of your CPU while playing. It could be overheating.

1 Like

For reference, I have a 650W running an i7-10700 and GTX1080. RAM and storage and fans consume minimal power.

I have been. It never reaches 65C. Have a pretty good cooler on it, however flight sim doesn’t really put it under heavy load like it does the GPU

If you do look in Event Viewer, in addition to whatever other clues you may find, look for Event ID 1074. The associated message looks like this:

The process C:\Windows\System32\RuntimeBroker.exe (N723WF) has initiated the restart of computer N723WF on behalf of user N723WF\Keith for the following reason: Other (Unplanned)
Reason Code: 0x0
Shutdown Type: restart
Comment:

If you find these messages when your shutdowns occur, you might want to try what I found online. I can’t say for sure that one is related to the other, but I have had no problems since I made these changes. And that sound you hear is me knocking wood.

  1. Open Control Panel (Large Icons or Small Icons)
  2. Open Power Options
  3. For your specific Power Plan, select “Change plan settings”
  4. Select “Change advanced power settings”
  5. Hard Disk / Turn off hard disk - Change setting to 0 minutes (or Never)
  6. Processor power management - Minimum processor state - Change setting to 0%

I hope this helps you. I didn’t have much hair left to pull out but I was down to my last two or three. :slight_smile:

1 Like

Thanks for the help. I suppose my first step should be unplugging my PSU from the power strip and plugging it into the wall outlet instead. :grimacing:

After a little bit of research and GamersNexis advice, I guess there’s really no need for a higher wattage or better power efficient PSU at all, 700 should be plenty. I guess It comes down to event viewer or PSU is giving out.

Yes and no.
Under regular office type use that Bronze rating PSU would probably deliver enough grunt to keep things running ok.

But you have an overclocked CPU which will definitely be asking for a smooth power delivery which this less capable model might not be able to deliver.

It might be down to a bit too much ripple as your cores ramp up and down which uosets the Overclocked CPU

Unfortunately you can not infer ripple performance from the PSU rated power or efficiency rating.

No you can’t.

But what you can infer from a manufacturers lower tier offerings is cheaper components, quite likely a lower tier oem product rebadged and poorer performance across the board.

(Example. Brand X may sell Rebadged Seasonic PSU’s as their top tier offerings and Rebadged “Happy flower” for the budget tier)

I don’t think the 700w is the problem here - that should be plenty for your setup. Random shutdowns are usually related to the PSU. Unfortunately the test is the solution, as the best way to rule out a faulty PSU is to simply buy a new one.

Sure sounds like PSU is going nuts.
Best is to try a new PSU, see what happens.

If you are investing in a PSU now, think about your current power draw, and also the power draw that you will need after you upgrade some components down the line.
You could invest in a 850W high end PSU or more, that could still be used when you bump your GPU to a 30 or 40 series for instance.

Seasonic is a reputable brand, they generally offer high quality products.
Asus sells a PSU called the Rog Thor, which is a rebranded Seasonic with an LCD screen to monitor power draw in real time.

The Rog Thor II was just released, so the original Rog Thor I are discounted in some stores. I’ve seen it on sale for less than 200 bucks in the US.

Good Luck!

Are the black screens with a reboot happening just after you start your PC or wake it from sleep or do they happen in the middle of the game?

I agree with @somethingbrite and others that recommend an upgrade but I would say to get at least a 1000watt psu gold or higher to assure a better quality unit and more headroom, if you can.
When I built my system like in 2015 I bought the supernova 1300g2 even though I only had a 4 core cpu (eventually upgraded to a couple different kingpin gpus and now a 3080) and the power supply is still going strong currently with an overclocked 54x3 53x5 52x8 11900k @ 1.5v. Sure 1300 watt is overkill but I would say with the insane power of newer and upcoming gpus it would be safe to get a 1000watt.
Oh and for some reason EVGA has decided it would be a good idea to trade in their top #1 or #2 status in the psu market for last place by opting for such OEMs like FSP others. Apparently they wanted to see Asus as the leader in the psu market (along with seasonic).