Did you ever find the solution to the yoke being stuck in update mode? I tried to do a firmware update on mine yesterday and the progress bar stopped at 97%. Now I’m stuck in update mode and can’t do anything. My dilemma is the fact I am running MSFS on Xbox series X, so the fix they sent out for pc users is of little use to me I’m afraid.
No bluetooth keyboard connection (and neither a mouse) possible with the Xbox Series X (others I have no experience with)
That’s why I use an USB 3.0 port replicator with it’s own power source (otherwise the WLAN dongle for the keyboard won’t work) and have plugged in
- yoke into main USB (front port)
- headset (A50) into main USB in the backside
- USB port replicator in main USB in the backside
in the USB port replicator
- usb WLAN dongle for keyboard and mouse combo (logitech)
- Hotas One joystick (for the rudder pedals)
- flash memory stick for screenshots and videos
Cheers
Thats great thanks for the info. Do you get good range with the logitech if so what model? I was looking at the razer turrett but cant justify that amount with the limited amount of games to use it on.
Hello again, I am an xbox user and I would like to know if it falls under the update plans by trustmaster or asobo, so that the warning lights and various failures work.
@FormableCello79 , if you are still facing update issues, keep trying the following:
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Keep retrying the update process, and keep the update window in focus (don’t let your computer go to sleep)
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If it still does not update, try contacting James@TBS. He’s on this forum and also in the Discord server channel Turtle Beach Simulation, and ask for the recovery tool
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If you cannot get in tocuh with him, PM me and I’ll try getting you the recovery tool
I had the same issues as you did, and got in touch with James who gave me the recovery tool.
Sasha…I have the app that will restore the yoke to factory default settings. All I lack now is a PC or Laptop that has Windows 10 or 11. I am working on that now. I read the instructions on how to use the restore program and it looks pretty straight forward. Once I get a newer laptop I’m sure I will be on my way to flying again. Thank you for your reply! Happy Flying.
They are working on the panel lights for xbox, they just got them up for pc. The dents on the thottle quadrant work now, it’s getting there.
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I bought that one, Logitech MK470, as it has a separate number pad and one dongle for both keyboard and mouse.
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07VCS1895/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The distance it has to brigde is about 3 meters between xbox and sofa, nevertheless I use an USB extender (USA A to USB A, 1m length) cable to get the dongle on the side of the TV (from where the XBox resides behind). The WLAN signal does not seem to pass through the LED TV itself very well, with the cable extension there is nothing between sofa and dongle.
If you’re on a budget. Before the MK470 I used the K400 from logitech so far, with a touchpad instead of a mouse. Also requires a WLAN dongle.
Both fit (balance more, so to say) on top of the yoke, by the way, if you cover the yoke with a non-slip mousepad it won’t slide off too fast. 
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00VHHWNMI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This thread is now officially over the line on being a General Discussion thread about TB products and constitutes a Technical Support thread, which is against the Pinned Posts in all third party subforums on the MSFS board. Please take any and all tech support directly to TB using their support channels.
Can you please tell me how to get the cover off at the front? I have removed all small screws at the bottom, but i can’t figure out how it’s attached at the front. Feels like some plastic parts will break if I bend it more than I have tried.
Two screws under the rubber pads(rectangular ones). Push on the front corners of the pads and you can feel the holes. carefully peel them up and you can get a screwdriver in there.
Many plastic gizmos with rubber feet hide screws under them.
As a note on this. After a few weeks still can not get all of the stickiness out of the yoke. The yoke bushings themselves bite on the yoke shaft(which is actually 2 pieces sleeved inside each other). Without going nuts taking it apart, as I’ve seen no way with a path that is 100% safe to disassemble, adding grease to this shaft(R/C ceramic grease) gets it pretty close by running it through while both lifting and pushing the yoke down slightly.
From the outside it helps a bit, pull the yoke out and slightly down, put a little on the top of the shaft, push in with downward pressure to bypass the tiny gap, lift and work it in. Repeat the opposite for the bottom. After a bit wipe off the excess. The other main flaw is turning the yoke full right stop binds it up no matter what you do. The only true fixes would either be some supreme greasy slick nylon material for all the bushings(maybe), or simply supporting the top of the cartridge/carrier and/or yoke shaft from lifting up and down in the travel which would require some new moldings of the upper cover with a track or some sort of bracket(would definitely fix-keeping the geometry neutral and not allowing the bearings to fulcrum to binding points). For most, greasing from the front of the enclosed unit would make a notable difference. A little better from the inside(without messing with the other bushings at all). But it has to be something like that R/C grease, WD-40/CLP/3-in-1 type things don’t work. That Tamiya type grease is made specifically for metal to nylon connections and joints that load/unload forces, like car differential planetary gears, shims, and suspension joins.
Don’t get me wrong though, still love this thing!
What will also help is after SU8 if you can save the sensitivities and centering, as I find this does not fully center from back elevator to return to ‘center’. It really needs ~5% dead zone and the center moved over to the left/back that same 5%. So if you let go from light back pressure and set autopilot or elevator trim the tiniest bump or button push doesn’t knock it off ‘center’, because it wasn’t really there with no dead zone. No fault to the design for that though, for something to hold center without some digitized FFB motor doing it, it’s virtually impossible with anything using springs, just look at your default controller stick dead zones, they don’t center either.
For a ‘normal’ user, a little helpful grease from outside, setting a dead zone, and some sensitivities curves help a lot, as does break-in. Other tweaks like setting armrests in a spot that encourages using the yoke without loading it with up or down forces against it, and hitting active pause for a second and running it in and out after two hours of only moving it +/- 1" before final helps.
Hey all, I’ve been having issues with selecting and utilizing any sort of knob or switch within the A320 cockpit. Seems like the issue is that the yoke inputs seem to be conflicting with the joystick inputs on the controller. For example, whenever I select the vertical speed knob it rapidly turns it to the max 6000V/S. Is there any way around this or suggestions regarding the control inputs?
#XBOX Series X
I am using a cheap $25.00 Logitech keyboard mouse combo and it works just fine. I rarely get more than 20 feet/6.1 Meters away from the console. The dongle is permanently mounted in one of the rear ports.
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Hi!
Just came over this post, as I now have the same problem. Did you figure it out yet? How did you fix the problem?
Thanks!
There are several issues. This is one of them and how I solved it.
Sasha…I bought my new laptop with Windows 11 and was able to get my yoke out of Update Mode. I restored it to factory default settings and then updated it successfully. Now I’m flying again. Thanks for your reply.
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@FormableCello79 , sorry that you had to go through so many hoops to get your V1F up and running, but happy that you got it RUNNING. Happy flying
Thanks for the help 
Just removed the cover and applied “Tamyia Cera Grease” on the Yoke shaft (inside/outside), Rails on cassete track and spring shaft. Definitly much smoother now 
(Even turning the yoke full right stop and pull it, is much better).
Noticed the small stickiness on the sponge washers, but I don’t know how much of it I really notice when I move the yoke. Didn’t want to remove them and the 2-3mm they give, as the springs were lighter than i thougt. (Afraid the already needed 3% deadzone/centering isn’t enough) And I also didn’t want to lengthen the springs in this first step.
What do you think? Did you notice anything negative by removing the sponge washers? Harder stop? More “needed” deadzone?
As for the BIG one: Plastic bushing on the spring shaft. If you open it like you said, about 1mm, will you notice that extra play?
As the spring shaft still rubbs against it when the yoke is pulled right/left how can 1mm be so much better? Is it that the shaft is relieved on top/bottom in the bushing with that extra 1mm?
Just trying to understand before I do some thing 
Man, thanks for mentioning those 2 last screws which are underneath the rubber pads. I thought i was going crazy when i couldn’t open up the cover while all screws were removed! 
I was about to ask here for a solution for that.
Gonna try it again tonight and use a silicone based grease which is safe for plastic.
I love the yoke but ■■■■, it is sticky.
Personally i would just stay with the grease and call it done . There is still a little bit of stick/drag in the yoke bushings itself that can not be fixed, even with EVERYTHING disconnected, bushing/springs etc and just the yoke itself. With that shaft bearing open there is less stick with the yoke on center but at full right it binds up more than it did, so there’s no perfect to be found. I didn’t even notice that until flying the cap like a maniac. Left alone it would have been better. Not sure if I’d use silicone I tried a few and it didn’t seem to last, including wd40 gel. The same r/c grease also works on the tm rudder pedal rails too, they had the exact same little hitch/drag with light inputs around center. You could goof around with it off and no problem, until you tried to keep the WACO centered on the runway on t/o. Its when there’s a minutia of movement.
Even pushing grease through without disassembly helps. The yoke shaft needs support to keep it centered in the bushing. That’s the problem with cad engineering it was designed to work when push pulled perfectly centered in a vacuum of no variables, which is when it does move smoothly, but even the yoke’s own weight pulls it down.
I’m also willing to completely loose the device if I tinker too much… What would make this perfect would be a track molded in the top cover with an extension up from the cassette that would keep the yoke centered even if loaded(probably with and added nylon bearing surface top/bottom). Just like that bottom track. And the bushings slightly cleaned up in the mold(without those mold lines inside the working surface) and probably a little bit harder/smoother compound of nylon. The yoke shaft you see inside IS sleeved into another shaft on the outside. In theory another inner shaft could go into the end that was mounted centered in the back of the case too, but then getting wires through all that would be near impossible to accommodate. And any additional length to the support at the front would limit back elevator, so it would have to ‘level up’ to metal components…
Been thinking of trying a quality white nylon tie strap at the innermost junction of the yoke/support over the shaft that with one perfect ‘click’ would unload the yoke shaft drag, but still provide smooth friction-free movement. It’s hard to accidentally ‘lift’ the yoke out of center(it sticks lifting it too), but touching anything tilts it down enough to start binding a bit. hard to imagine it working though without having to keep going in to tension it.
I’ve just gotten used to it enough now it’s only really annoying in long sweeping turn trying to keep it perfectly level.