I use the following peripherals from Virtual Fly: Yoko (yoke), TQ6 (throttle levers) and RUDDO (rudder controls).
After the SU5, the RUDDO (rudder controls) started to intermittently stop working for pretty long periods of time. It would start to work again suddenly in a completely random fashion and then stop again after a little while, and go through this on/off cycle for as long as I would play. It does it every single time I start a new MSFS2020 session.
The Yoke and the throttle still work perfectly.
PC: 11900k, RTX3090, 32Gb RAM
Nvidia drivers and Windows 10 up to date
Tested with empty Community folder
Issue started since SU5
Not using developer mode
No Zendesk ticket submitted
Sorry, I was to quick to blame the SU5, I actually am pretty sure my RUDDO+ are breaking down, they loose their USB connection for no reason at all even in a simple window session.
MSFS2020 is NOT to blame here.
I am having an issue with RUDDO+ pedals. The toe brakes do not work in the sim. If the L/R brake axes are set to reversed, the brake axis shows movement in the control settings but not the cockpit. If the axis is not reversed, the brakes move in the cockpit but then obviously the input is backwards since the axis needs to be reversed.
I’ve had my Ruddo pedals from virtual fly for about 1.5 years now and suddenly, about 2-3 months ago the toe breaking just stopped working. I messaged virtual fly and they said to calibrate it using their VFHub software and then set a blank rudder pedal profile up in MSFS . They advised this way because they said it was a known issue that the MSFS profile settings are clashing with their VFHub calibration settings. But it didn’t work at all. When I put in a blank MSFS profile, (the idea being to let the VFHub take over) , nothing worked at all, no rudder and no breaking.
I think that was their only possible suggestion cause when I sent them two videos showing that their suggestion wasn’t working and i asked if they had any other ideas, and if not, maybe I could get a partial refund especially considering I purchased their yoke and TQ6 also. I stopped hearing back from them after that . They were very cordial and seemed anxious to help , but clearly there is no solution. It’s quite strange because both MSFS and the VFHub both show normal rudder and breaking inputs. The sensitivity curves work great. But in the sim , the toe breaks only work at about 20% effectiveness in the C152 which is useless. It’s even worse on jets. Spent near $500-$600 for those pedals and I have no choice but to put them to the trash now.
I suppose it’s possible that maybe it’s not the fault of the virtual fly Ruddo pedals, who knows, maybe it’s some kind of software glitch somehow?? Maybe it’s a glitch in MSFS. No way to know what the true cause is. I just know I just wasted $600 now. (Sigh)
Think I’ll not spend so much on a rudder this next time. It’s not really necessary that a rudder control be so complex or expensive like it might be necessary for a good quality yoke.
I have the full line of their products as well, I am the person who created this thread. My Yoko, TQ6 and RUDDO+ work just great. Let me try to help.
First thing to know, I do not use their VFHub software, it is not even installed on my PC.
This way I can control the sensitivity of my RUDDO+ Through MSFS no problem.
The first thing to check, is to open up your “Devices and Printers’ panel and find your RUDDO+ there. Right click on it and go to “Game Controller Settings” select it again and go to ‘Properties” and TEST. If everything works as it should, there is nothing wrong with your RUDDO+, the issue then will be solvable! If it does not work as expected, then CALIBRATE, and follow the instructions precisely on how it should be done. If all fails, it is probably, and that’s what happen to me, some how the way I had all my peripherals, that were working just fine, plugged in through their different USB ports would not work anymore due to: who knows! (probably a windows 10 update). The way I fixed it was to find another sequence for my USB connections. I tell you, USB connections have been largely the source of all my problems, we have so much peripherals connected at once and that’s the problem. You have to find a way to lighten the USB load on your computer.
This is my two cents advice to you, hope you will fix your problem as I did mine.
Wow, thanks Calvsimmer. I will try anything and everything anyone suggests here.I will let ya all know how it goes. These are great ideas and theories. I’m hopeless when it comes to tech stuff. Thanks again , I really hope I can find the fix cause these were so expensive.
Hey Calvrsimmer. Well, I did everything precisely as suggested, and you really did have some sound ideas. But still, no dice.
- I tested different USB ports for it
- I uninstalled the VFHub and went to my devices icon and made sure each axis from the rudder to the toe brakes were moving correctly and mapped /calibrated
- I tested many different MSFS high sensitivity settings and still, it’s the same no braking situation.
It’s weird, I can be doing 40 knots on the runway and can never bring the plane to a stop rolling 3-5 minutes breaking the whole time ever!! Yet turn on the parking break and it comes to a gradual full stop in about 6 seconds.
Well , I don’t think anyone else will want to buy this thing . Imagine advertising for sale and saying in the sales ad “ I have to be honest and say “I can’t get the toe breaks to work in the game but that’s probably just some other problem with my system, and they seem to be fully functional otherwise” . Whose gonna pay me any money for that? I paid $600-$700 for this junk (and please excuse me for calling it junk, but when you pay $600 and 1.3 years later they die on me, I’m not too happy about that) . If my next set of rudder pedals have toe breaks that also don’t work, then I’ll come back and post about it here and take back the junk word. I actually had a pair of cheap $100 thrustmasters when I first started simming and those worked just fine too.
I’ve decided I think I’ll go ahead and invest in the $400-$500 thrustmaster TPR Pendular pedals. Plus I’ve read those pedals don’t have the problem these Ruddos do in that when you toe break the ruddos , the entire back end of the unit wants to flip up off the floor and using the tether cabling they include with it wasn’t a very good solution in preventing that. It was very loose and even when tethered tightly to my chair pole, it wasn’t steady and sturdy, it still moved around . Actually , if I was successful at fixing these, I was planning to hire a handyman to drill holes into the concrete under the carpet to screw these ruddos down . Nothing else works to keep them on the floor without flipping up or moving around . I’ve been reading when you press the toe breaks on the thrustmaster, there’s no moving or flipping around on any part of the device.
Having to drill holes into the ground to keep these ruddos grounded isn’t something I should have to do anyways. Well, “say la vi”my little $600 Ruddo pedal friends and Rest In Peace in some Texas landfill. Rest assured, I’ll report back here on how my toe brakes work on my new TPR pendular unit when it arrives, and one can trust it’ll be a honest report. If the new ones work , then that’ll be a nail in the coffin for the Ruddo pedal’s reputation.
Let me tell you, with absolute certainty, if your RUDDO are working properly inside:
Devices and Printers Panel / Game Controller Settings / RUDDO Properties
X Axis: cross resting in the middle, when you press left or right rudder the cross moves accordingly
X Rotation: When you press the left break the bar goes fully to the right
Y Rotation: When you press the right break the bar goes fully to the right
There is absolutely nothing wrong with your RUDDO peripheral. The issue lies somewhere else. I would hold on a little longer and do some more digging before giving up and buying a new set of rudders.
Two things I would do if the Game controller settings are correct:
- Remove all of your USB peripherals, just keep the bare minimum. A mouse, keyboard, yoke and RUDDO.
- This is very important: Inside MSFS go to Control Options, DELETE ALL of your RUDDO profiles if any and start fresh from a default profile, and make sure none of your RUDDO axis are mapped and forget about any sensitivity settings at the moment. START FROM A BLANK CANVAS sort of say!
Make sure you map your left and right rudder axis to:
Flight Control Surfaces / Primary Control Surfaces / RUDDER AXIS with Reverse checked
Make sure you map your left and right RUDDO brake axis to (Be careful here you have 2 possibilities Brake Axis and Brake, you want Brake Axis):
BRAKES / RIGHT BRAKE AXIS with Reverse checked
BRAKES / LEFT BRAKE AXIS with Reverse checked
Try all of that, hope this solves your problem, good luck : )
Thanks Calvrsimer. To be very honest, I already did try your suggestion #2 . Since the MSFS Ruddo settings I had in there weren’t working, I did delete those other two existing profiles and left myself only with the default setting. I then watched several you tube videos to make sure I am setting MSFS Ruddo profile up correctly and I do recall, the videos suggested exactly as you have written.
The only item I can try is your item #1 suggestion. Though I read a lot and watch tons of MSFS you tube videos to pass the time, and I haven’t really heard of others out there saying they couldn’t make full use of any of their peripherals (yoke, rudder, throttle etc) due to having to many USB ports in use. Of course I’m sure it’s happened, but it seems it would be extremely rare since I’ve not read anyone having that type of problem. And my computer and everything is brand new. I literally had my computer tech build my flight sim PC and everything including monitors , cables , USB port device ,100% of it is brand new.
My new TPR thrustmaster pedals have already been ordered from Amazon. They should be here in early February. So I guess we will soon see whether it something unique to my computer system, MSFS, or MSFS settings or is it something truly wrong with the RUDDO pedals. I shall post the results as soon as I have the new thrustmaster pedals set up.
And by the way, thanks for taking the time to suggest possible solutions. They’re great ideas for sure. I appreciate your help my friend
Also make sure your windows is up to date, and your USB drivers as well!
Are your RUDDO working as expected in the “Game Controller Settings” —> RUDDO properties window? You haven’t confirmed that.
Yes, they are . I did exactly as you had suggested step by step And everything registers normally (the inputs register along the appropriate axis for the rudders and toe brakes) . And good idea about checking if USB drivers are up to date as well as windows 10. I’ll google it and do those steps also. Trust me , I hope it can be fixed so at least I’ll be able to sell them maybe for $300 if I can be assured they work.
Well that’s good news. I will say this again, all of your RUDDO sensors are working properly, you RUDDO’s are good.
I had a set of VirtualFly TQ6 that failed once, and the way the company was willing to repair them for free was by confirming some of the TQ6 levers none response through the “Game Controller Settings”.
I am convinced for having a long experience with peripherals that the problem lies somewhere else on your computer. Unfortunately it could be a myriad of things, but like I said most of my problems have come from USB aka power HUB or no power HUB, USB 2.0 vs 3.0,
When debugging you want to be in the most simple configuration possible.
I would still pursue the idea of testing mouse, keyboard and RUDDO only (3 USB no more). Power with keyboard and steer and brake with the RUDDO. Test with an empty COMMUNITY folder.
This was my last 2 cents!
Sorry for your troubles, hopefully you’ll have better luck with your new set of Rudders.
Calvsimmer, you da man!!
You did it Calvsmmer. Problem solved. I did the following as you suggested re listed below and that resolved it.
Updateed GPU drivers
Updated usb drivers
Updated windows 10
G force msfs 2020 game driver updated
Microsoft store updated
Ran direct x diagnostic = no problem found
Well, my TPR pedals have already shipped. I guess I’ll get to test them out and see which feels best to me. I’ve been pretty impressed with so many comments from others saying the TPR’s “best rudders ever used” or “very smooth”. And one guy claiming to be a 747 driver in real world said couldn’t believe how similar to the real thing it felt like. On the other hand, Ruddo produces professional sim grade flight controllers and sturdy enough to last a life time definitely describes the ruddos.
Here’s what I want to check between them:
Although my braking is 100% improved from where it was (basically working only 20%), I wonder which game controller can brake more effectively. I still feel like I’m having to apply too much pressure on the ruddos to get the CRJ to stop. I did the CFI thing and was a part 135 freight dog back in the early 2000’s have 2,000 ■■■■ time and 1,500 twin in a C 402B. Taking into account a jet might take longer to come to a stop than my C402B, I still have a feeling I’m having to apply significantly more brake pressure in this game than what a real world CRJ pilot would have to do if not using auto breaks (the CRJ has auto braking right)? I want to see if the thrustmaster TPR’s
brake at a noticeably better clip or not. And I’ll use a C 152 also for an extra comparison, I got about 500 hours in real world in the C 152. Though TPR’s claim to simulate jets more than the general aviation planes so maybe Ruddo will win out on C 152 and general small aviation realism. I’ll do both planes and see .
The strap thing virtual fly provides with these rudders to allow the flight simmer to be able to apply enough pressure on the breaks to stop( you have to wrap the sturdy nylon strap around the chair pole baseboard use as leverage for braking ) isn’t very ideal. It still moves more than I’d like to see. IMHO you really have no choice but to bolt screw these into the floor which may be a little more than most want to do. I want to see if the Thrustmaster TPR’s are stable enough to allow us to apply sufficient braking pressure to stop the plane without having to bolt them down. Some reviewers have said the way the TPR’s are built , one can use them with no need to bolt down . We’ll see. I’ll report back my comparison between the RUDDO and TPR’s and see if overall , one is preferable to the other. I’ll do a you tube review also because someone should. Ive not been able to find a non paid /non biased review comparing these two high end models. Whichever one comes in 2nd, I’ve got to try and sell. These dang rudders are so heavy shipping costs will be $200 alone.
Glad you solved your problem with the RUDDO, in my opinion, they are an excellent product!
The CRJ doesn’t have auto break. I always use reverse thrust until I reach 60 knots, then start to apply the breaks.
I have also created a CRJ profile for the RUDDO where you can adjust the different sensitivity settings and not have to break so hard.
I have a different RUDDO profile for each plane I fly.
My RUDDO are attached to my extrusion profile chassis, so no force great enough will make them move an inch : ) So no problem on that front!
Enjoy your RUDDO again!
Well, since even with setting the Ruddos at the highest sensitivity settings I still felt it was taking too much break force to slow the plane down. So within a week of my last post, I bought the thrustmaster TPR pedals (the $500 one that looks like Boeing pedals) and wow I really like it so much better , HOWEVER even setting the springs at the highest resistance and reducing breaking sensitivity to the lowest in settings, I have found it still too loose and easy to break. I can barely apply slight break pressure and it stops as if I was applying super hard pressure , so I don’t know , I guess I’m a super picky hard to please guy. That being said , I’ve never flown a airliner in real life just my 1500 hours part 135 C 402B freight hauling back in the day. So maybe airliners are that way in real life, I can’t say. Overall I’m much happier with it overall and it is way easier to do sharp turns too. With the ruddos I had to press breaks so hard my chair would push back . But with the TPR’s , I never have that problem as the breaks work in full on with only slight break pressure. Now I got to list my Ruddos on eBay for the Dallas area so the buyer can pick it up in person since they are so heavy it’s cost too much to ship . Figure I’ll list them for $195 as soon as I get around to it .