A2A Comanche 250

Some airplanes are “slicker” than others, meaning they don’t produce as much drag due to retractable gear, or low-drag wings and other features. There’s an adage that goes along with that - “you can slow down or you can go down, but you can’t do both.” Now, that’s of course a little overblown and it doesn’t apply universally, but it’s not bad advice, overall. So in return, we have to stay ahead of the plane, planning our descent so that we’re not fast and/or high at the point where we transition to a properly configured final approach, on speed. Give yourself a mile or two at pattern altitude before actually joining the pattern, rather than descending straight into it or doing a long straight-in.

Part of this is understanding how the wind (and maybe higher TAS at altitude) is affecting your groundspeed, and it is often different aloft than on the surface. A strong tailwind during descent, on downwind, or base can really make a plan that doesn’t take those into account go poorly.

But if you do end up high and fast…

Level out momentarily at low power to get configured. Drop the gear first, then get down into flaps range before continuing. Bring the props up to full fine pitch at idle and they get pretty draggy. Most people don’t realize how much extra power they carry and that they can really bring it further down to idle. Just avoid shock-cooling or breaking gearboxes by making abrupt power changes in some aircraft.

Another is using geometry - widen and/or extend your pattern (this is common for faster airplanes). Do a few S turns (or the ol’ 360). Of course, this method can work against you in regard to other traffic and perhaps terrain/obstacles, not to mention potentially putting you out of glide range to the airport.

You can also use a forward slip, though it really shouldn’t be relied on in some aircraft and configurations (per the POH). But it’s a useful skill and almost required for some flapless aircraft and/or short-field/obstacle landing situations.

But in the end, don’t get behind the airplane - be at the target speed and altitude on downwind to begin with. Pull power and start configuring midfield downwind, or abeam the numbers at the very latest. Practice, practice, practice pattern work.

And if it doesn’t look good, you can always go around.

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This is the way. One big thing to add is that there’s no need to be scared of the buzzer if you really pull power back without the gear down. That’s there as a warning if you pull the power out for touchdown and don’t have the gear down.

It’s much easier if you slow down to or at least near gear and flap speed early. Honestly my strategy, especially for a tricky approach, is usually to just descend early at speed terrain permitting and get her 1-2000 feet above pattern altitude a few miles out, level off at my descent power settings and just gradually lose speed till I’m flying clean and stabilized at ~110 knots, and then I start worrying about my actual approach, pattern entry, flaps, gear etc.

Although also absolutely no need to be afraid to drop the gear early if needed. It’s fine to use the gear as a speed brake, that’s what people really do it’s not a sim cheat.

Edit: mph. Not knots. Duh.

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The appropriate and safe aircraft for hurricane chasing. I’m quite proud of both of those ground speeds.

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0.7 lol. It’s not the Comanche helicopter you know? :slight_smile:

Who says? I think that was actually reading backwards too lol

As wonderful as the A2A Comanche is.. it is a tad floaty. I mentioned this on day one. I’ve no real world Comanche time, but gobs in Pipers. If you get near Vref, full flaps, gear down, flight idle… they’re coming down… even in ground effect.

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The Comanche (like the Mooney) has laminar flow wings which might be part of it.

I think most other Piper are not, the Hershey Bar Cherokee is definitely not.

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It’s accurate. I’m still working on my license but I’ve spent time in a buddy’s Comanche 180 with some at the controls and it really feels like the real thing besides the obvious power differences between the 180 and 250. More importantly than my limited experience actually flying and even more limited experience in the Comanche, the owner has the A2A comanche and described it as uncannily similar as far as handling both in the air and on the ground, again he has a different engine.

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Ah, so you all must be dropping the gear at 150. I interpreted max gear operation speed (125mph) literally, but are you guys saying that only applies when raising the gear, not when lowering it?

I know “max gear down” is 150, but I thought that meant that’s max speed when the gear is down, not the speed below which you can drop the gear.

There are usually two values I believe. One is for maximum speed for when the gear is deployed, and one for maximum speed for gear in transition, vLE, and vLO respectively.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/V_speeds

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Not exactly. I actually usually get it down to about 100 clean. Getting the gear down then makes it easier to control your speed on descent, it makes a bigger difference than flaps with the added benefit of making it much more stable in turbulence. So usually I just do most of the descent at cruise speed, level off, power the same as descent or pull some if I need to, pitch up and once I’m getting pretty slow I drop the gear and continue to descend controlled at low speed.

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Yeah.. constant chord, non-laminar wings can have a dramatic loss in lift, at/below approach speed… and slowing Mooneys down, is more about their overall aerodynamic “cleanliness”.

I’ve got time in both a Saratoga, and Cheroke Six. The A2A Comanche, fully landing config.. at idle and at/below approach speed, is just a tad floaty.. Not dramatic, for sure … and it’s subtle enough to “forget about”, once used to it..but it is noticeable, and a slight detraction.

P.S.. Regardless A2A’s remarkable aerodynamic modeling outside of the and in spite of the MSFS model… getting this aspect of the envelope just right, might not be possible or practical.. and the current compromise is as good as it can be?

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Purchased an Auction version, after a flight I inspected the engine everything was in the green apart from oil lines, so changed them, in the engine analyser the cylinders? were all in the yellow/orange, is that just where they are warm from after a flight?

Not really glued up on engines so no idea what I’m doing here.

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Yes, because they’re still warm. They’ll turn blue eventually and be darker orange/red when it’s running. Purple is bad, that means they’re too hot.

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Have an issue, full power but only hitting 1500rpm

Should I just do an engine overhaul its an auction version, last flight was fine though and engine inspection was all fine.

Engine sounds really lumpy

What could be the issue?

I would not jump into an overhaul. This is the FUN of the Comanche, you need to solve it :wink:

First look at your spark plugs and oil level. Your cylinders are wildly different temperatures and overall head temp not even registering yet. You need to warm it up before giving full throttle.

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Cheers, so I inspected the engine and it’s all green apart from oil pump in orange but it says it’s still air worthy, but to keep an eye on it.

Could I still have an issue despite inspection saying all ok?

Change the oil (fresh) and fill it to 75%. You need to use the correct grade of oil for the temperature (I am not sure which so don’t ask me! I just know it’s “a thing”).

What is the outside air temp? Looks cold!

I think you just have dirty spark plugs though… your mixture is full rich there? On the ground you REALLY need to bring that down to clean up the plugs before it will get smooth running again.

EDIT: May as well change the oil pump lol. It’s free!

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Outside temp is about 17c (64f), I can’t find a way to tell if spark plugs are dirty so I just clicked the clean spark plugs button.

My oil was filled was 100%, so I will reduce that.

Oooh yes, you don’t want 100%! Needs room to expand under pressure :smiley:

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