There are only two things I would change:
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You don’t need the TP-Link 2.5GB PCle Network Card (TX201). That motherboard has a 2.5Gb network chip with WiFi 7. The addon card would be redundant.
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I recommend Windows 11 Pro over the Home version. I also recommend an easy hack to debloat Windows. I did it on my system and I firmly believe it’s made a positive effect on the smoothness and stability of my system. The video is self-explanatory, but if you need advice when it’s time to install Windows, let me know.
- It makes it easy to set up a local account (Microsoft makes it hard, and tries to force you into using a Microsoft login account.) Fear not, you can still create a Microsoft account and use it to access MS-Store and Xbox Apps (you need both.) A local login account is safer and less intrusive.
- It lets you eliminate a bunch of unnecessary garbage apps that Microsoft want to force you into when you install it.
- It automatically postpones Windows feature updates (which can sometimes be problematic) yet it keeps security updates current.
This video is only 7 months old… 
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Instead of the Gigabyte motherboard, I would go for the MSI Tomahawk WIFI or Carbon WIFI - for example, MSI’s BIOS is user-friendly.
FYI, I’ve recommended PC parts to several users on this forum, such as the MSI MPG X870E Carbon WIFI, Ryzen 7 9800X3D, Arctic Liquid Freezer III 360 and 64GB (2x32) G.Skill. None of them have had any issues for example @skypilotYTS
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Btw - this cpu is too cheap at $419 because I think it is a scam Chinese company. Micro Center in north Dallas has them for $459 (normal price is $479) but you have to buy it in-store. They do this because scalpers buy them up and resell at outrageous prices.
Here is the link to it. You can order it online for them to hold it until you get to the store. The 9800x3d has been difficult find the last few months.
Will do, thank you. Everything else look good to order?
The only other thing you might want to change is the case. This review indicates the case does not have good airflow and airflow is very important with the sim as it can run the PC flat out for an extended time.
I’m not in a good place right now to recommend another one but perhaps @TenPatrol , @BegottenPoet228 or @Baracus250 knows of a good one (ATX case that can accommodate his 420 AIO).
Edit: Check out this video for some good cases for airflow. You just need to ensure your cpu cooler will fit.
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@WingWarper1 is absolutely right in suggesting a better PC case. The one you chose is more suited for an office setup rather than a gaming rig. We (flightsimmers) need a case that not only fits all the components, including large and heavy GPUs, but also provides good airflow. For example, I have a Be Quiet! Silent Base 802, housing an RTX 4090, a 360mm radiator wkth 3x120 fans for CPU cooling on the top, three intake fans at the front and one exhaust fan at the back. A well-ventilated case is crucial for keeping temperatures in check, especially in a high-performance gaming setup.
Arctic Liquid Freezer III 420 you chose won’t fit on the top in all PC cases. My Ryzen 7 9800X3D is cooled by the 360mm version and it’s perfectly sufficient. For a 420mm radiator, you need a larger PC case because it’s better to mount it on the top, where its fans can push hot air out of the case.
Installing it on the front has a downside- hot air from the radiator gets pushed into the case, which isn’t ideal for overall airflow and cooling efficiency. Keep that in mind when choosing a case.
Also, you’ll need a USB Hub to power all the peripherals required for virtual flying. Plugging everything directly into the motherboard could cause power issues, so having a dedicated hub will ensure stable connections for all your devices.
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Yes I have Corsair 4000D case and it’s very big and very good.
360mm cooler is fine (that is what I have).
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You should really reconsider your SSD choices in my opinion.
The backup SSD should be an external one that will not occupy one of your NVME slots all the time. You only plug it into your USB port once a month for 3 minutes for a new incremental backup and that’s it. A regular (non NVME) much cheaper external SATA SSD would be the right choice here.
Also, for the internal NVME I would recommend a 4 TB version instead of 2TB. The 990 Pro SSD in your link costs 190$. I would suggest to put 90$ on top of that and go for a 4TB SSD. The WD Black SN850X is also one of the best SSDs on the market: Amazon.com
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That’s a great suggestion regarding the 4TB – I actually have one myself and it’s mainly for MSFS 2020/2024. As for the WD Black, there’s been an issue with compatibility on for example MSI motherboards using X670E/X870E chipset. This might cause some problems with recognition, so I’d still recommend going for Samsung instead, as they’re known to be more reliable and compatible across a wider range of systems.
That Arctic Liquid Freezer 360 RGB AIO you bave a link to above is out of stock. For some reason, they are very difficult to find at the moment in the US. If you don’t care about the RGB you can get this one.
They must have sold the last one while I was typing it in because everything I posted was available. Yep, I don’t mind the lack of colors since I won’t be able to see them with the closed case plus I’m going to wearing be VR goggles anyway.
Now I just wait here patiently until I get the thumbs up that everything is good and I can go place my orders. 
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I have the bigger Corsair 5000X case. Love it.
It’s advertised as a ‘mid-tower’ but it’s plenty big. Not quite as big as the be.quiet case, though.
be.quiet Silent Base 802 is 24.5" x 13" x 24.5"
Corsair 5000X RGB is 20.47" x 9.65" x 20.47"
Like @Baracus250 said, it will accomodate a top-mount 360mm radiator.
The only issue I’ve run into is with the 280mm top-mount radiator I have. It’s thicker than a normal radiator, and the 2x6 pin CPU power connectors on my ATX MOBO barely fit - but they fit.
Plenty of room otherwise. I have 9 fans (3 front intake, 3 side intake that are ducted over the RAM, 2 top exhaust for my custom-loop liquid-cooled 3090 Ti, and 1 rear exhaust.) My case temps stay very cool - even with the 2 air-cooler fans on my 7950X3D CPU.
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I’d recommend getting thermal pads (0.5-1mm) in advance, just to be prepared. I know that MSI used thermal pads that were too thin on some boards, so the heatsink might not make proper contact with SAMSUNG 990 PRO. I have the X870E Carbon WIFI, so I’m not sure if the same issue applies to the X870E Tomahawk WIFI, but it’s better to be safe than sorry.
Furthermore, relying solely on one 4TB drive might not be sufficient for current storage needs. I’d suggest using a drive of at least 512GB dedicated solely to Windows and small programs, another 2TB drive for games and additional applications and reserving the 4TB drive for MSFS2020/2024 along with its paid and freeware add-ons.
Good point by @BegottenPoet228 — you didn’t mention what case fans you have?
What VR will you go for? Might need a 6 or 6E router to use as a dedicated access point close to your PC if you plan on using Quest 3 over WiFi with the Virtual Desktop software (IMO the best experience with that headset).
Another good point. I upgraded the WiFi 5 router my ISP supplied to a WiFi 6 model. My motherboard (like OP’s choice) has a WiFi 7 chip on it, but at the time WiFi 7 routers were prohibitively expensive; now you can find a good one for $100.
WiFi 6 or 6E is plenty fast, but when talking about WiFi and gaming you want the least latency between the router and the computer as possible.
This is a smoking good one on sale at Amazon right now for one you would never outgrow, and it supports Wi-Fi Mesh technology, which allows you to add extenders (if you have a big house to cover.)
And it has 2.5Gb wired ports. Of course none of this matters if don’t have at least a 1Gb internet connection. I suspect OP does…
I’m only talking about the connection to the headset. For Virtual Desktop. There is a list of recommended routers at various budgets on their Discord but I don’t think this (mesh) is appropriate.
I understand. But my gaming computer connects to the internet over my WiFi 6 router. So for me, having a fast, stable, low latency WiFi connection during gameplay is important. It’s only one link in the chain, to be sure. And to be sure, a Mesh is only important for multiple WiFi connections in a large area.
I don’t know which VR I’m buying, might buy the Quest 3 first and wait for the lighter one coming out in the next few months and buy that one too. I only have 40Mbps at the moment and when I upgrade next month best case scenario I will never have over 100Mbps out here in the country, so having a really fast router is useless for me. I currently have an Ubiquiti AP.
Let’s see if I’m ready to place my orders: