It was kind of a big thing when I took mine apart last year 
Checking center and giving a tiny dead zone to cover the center spongy area is one of the most important settings, especially with trimming and autopilot(deactivation). I find the yoke fine for even hard(realistic) bush flying, and only really notice it in use if it were something silly like flying the Pitts with it.
For stick aircraft I use the TB flightstick, which I think is great for fixed wing, if you mount it to a small cutting board or something for more leverage. But that stick sucks for heli use though, way too firm. The TM Hotas is pretty much only good for helis in the sim loosened up all the way, but I digress. I always have the TM HOTAS and pedals hooked up(for all rudder usage) and just plug in the appropriate TB yoke/stick in the front USB for whatever I’m flying.
I think a lot of it also has to do with properly setting curves for a ‘natural’ level of authority for a given aircraft. I must have 20+ configurations. I’d get a ‘better’ yoke system, but for Xbox there’s just too much that can be done with the V1 to give it up, I don’t even remember the ‘sticky’ feel, even with challenging landings, although I don’t fly airliners.
Here it is naked
There is a cassette that piggybacks onto the yoke to the right, the ‘binding’ 'is in there on that bushing, with some lateral movement of the yoke in it’s own bushing, and when turning, it bites a bit harder than when perfectly straight. If the bushing between the two springs were a metal roller bearing, it would be smooth as silk.
Again, the dead zone to accommodate the center foam bumpers and utilizing proper sensitivity rates to properly use more of the range of motion makes a big difference. Most basic settings have us ‘flying’ in a range of about 1" fore/aft, so the tiny bit of stick seems worse than it is. Like driving with a 900 degree capable wheel and only using the 90 degree range between 9-3 and saying it’s too sensitive.