Seems to me the TWCS Throttle has the same issue my X56 one has with prop planes, not enough levers. As far as yoke vs stick goes, I agree. The big reason for having a yoke (for me anyways) is that it looks more like what I’m seeing.
I will say the disadvantage most sticks have is they are basically all right-handed, while in most aircraft the steering is in the center or left and the throttle to the right. At least from the pilot’s seat. That breaks immersion a little bit for me.
One reason to get that TCA Airbus at some point, the stick can be adapted to both hands.
I think people here have pretty much sold me on the Bravo. I should still be able to get it tomorrow. I’m really grateful for all the input and answers and have some watching and downloading to do it seems.
I’ll leave the thread open until I get it a little set up, hoping nobody shows up with the Ultimate Throttle™ which makes me regret the purchase, and then choose @hobanagerik’s second post as solution since it was the first mention of the Bravo besides my own post.
2 Likes
The ergonomics are better when mounted to the right of your control wheel. My Saitek wheel now serves as my VS up/down!
1 Like
I recommend you find several videos by Rmag about setting up the Bravo throttle for the common aircraft types. Excellent and indispensable. I do realize there may be some differences with respect to the Xbox-compatible versions, but Rmag’s videos start with the most default lever setup and go from there to multi-engine, airliners and even the peculiarities of the TBM 930. In the process you’ll develop a sense of how to set up your own special stuff. No sweat. Good luck.
Virpil. Simply. the. best.
Pretty big differences. V1 used pots, and had 8bit precision, the v2 uses Hall effect sensors, and has 12bit precision.
I have a TCA Quadrant Airbus Edition but it has been moved off my desk and I now I use the Bravo throttle.
The Bravo is just so versatile.
I fly the Baron one day, the Bae146 the next, the 737 etc.
I really like it.
True, but the differences I referred to were regarding setups for the levers. Are the Xbox configurations of the Bravo essentially the same as on PC? And, yes, I wish my older Bravo had the spring-loaded starter switch for realism.
Flexibility is the word. You can configure almost anything, such as the JU52 with three throttles. I’m really happy with my Bravo and the new one has the improvements mentioned.
1 Like
I own both and can give both a thumbs up.
1 Like
Well, I have been flying with it for a few days now. Getting it configured is indeed a chore but I like it so far. Also just feels so much more realistic. I may get the Airbus package for it as well. Can’t work with the trim wheel in its default state though, I will definitely look into that vJoy solution posted above.
I do have some questions:
- I keep seeing references to the old and new versions. Is there any way to recognize which one I have?
- Some of the levers make a bit of a squeaking sound, as if they need a drop of oil. Reason for concern?
- Is it required to install the software to get the lights working? I installed the Better Bravo Lights mod which states it does not need the original drivers, but none of the lights including the landing gear light, work.
- Know of good instructions on how to work the autopilot on the Bravo?
- Any tips on the switch assignments? I’m leaning towards lights but I honestly don’t know. If there’s a parking brake on and off I may assign that one. Had a big argument with it when my CJ4 kept switching Avionics to Dispatch and never to On, only to figure out I had forgotten to unassign that one.
If I remember right the old version had a curved top, and the new one has a flat top.
I have pitot heat & parking break as the rightmost two switches (easiest to hit by muscle memory), and they get used very frequently. 
Then some de-icing and interior lights that come in handy for IFR flights but come up less in daytime VFR.
I do find that the switches get easily blocked by the levers when full forward.
The autopilot on the Bravo is kind of weird, you use the left dial to select which mode to adjust variables on, then the right dial to +/- the value. The buttons in the middle act as mode toggles (and if lights are working, the associated lights will light up when the mode is active). There should be some good tutorials out there with more detailed usage examples…