Oh I entirely agree, it’s by no means a criticism.
As I also said, the SDK poorly covers it. Ideally, it should be a sim built in function that requires no specific coding by the modeller at all.
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Probably @Latka would be able to answer this one, but can anyone please tell me what this means (I could not find a PDF Manual for the v2.0 aircraft – is there one?).
The label above the Carb Temp gauge says to keep the needles OUT of the yellow bands. That doesn’t make sense to me. Does it really mean it has to be above OR below the zone? It takes some doing to make the needles move! This screenshot is on a 12 Deg C OAT day. I could make them go above by moving the Anti-Ice Engine levers to around 50% but it’s not a cold day (well, for Scotland this is relative blissful summer!).
Or does it mean to not let them drop BELOW the orange band, but within them is still OK?
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I suppose once the carb temps hit the yellow band the risk of carb icing is especially high (the perfect storm of cold temperature and humidity).
Anything above that yellow zone is too hot freeze anything below probably too cold (colder air can hold less humidity).
Somebody please correct me if I’m wrong.
P. S. : don’t forget that you can get carb icing at outside temperatures way above freezing even at 20 C°, because of the venturi effect in the carburetor, which lowers the pressure of the air going through it and cools it. That’s the big danger: humid warmer air getting cooled to freezing temps.
Thanks for the reply. Yes I understand about the fact it can freeze when the air is still above zero. But should I aim to always keep the needles just above the yellow?
The way the sign is worded makes it sound like you can have the needles below also but surely not!
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If the needles are below yellow you’d probably not have a usable engine anyway, so don’t worry about it 
And yeah, remember your gas laws!
Lol, that’s reassuring 
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I’ll wait for @NightMercury358 to chime in. He’s all tucked up in his I <3 the UK jammies right now. 
You know, to be honest, I am not 100% sure. I see the yellow range as a “hey watch out” cautionary thing. I can’t recall if I’ve had icing issues with the needles in the yellow or not. I definitely try to keep them above 0C though.
Don’t forget, the carb heat levers on the cabin side, bottom of the center panel aren’t just on / off switches. You can dial 'em in a bit, or you can turn them on full blast - but if you do the latter, I recall Graham saying you don’t want to leave them on for more than a minute or so.
I’ll see if I can find us a definitive answer here in a bit.
From the BN-2 Flight Manual, available free here at BlackBox Simulation website!
Carburettor icing can occur, unexpectedly, in various combinations of
atmospheric conditions. On damp, cloudy or foggy days, regardless of
the outside temperature, keep a sharp observation for power loss,
indicated by a decrease in manifold pressure. wben this situation
arises, apply full carburettor heat for 30 seconds; this action will
cause a further slight drop in manifold pressure. Return the heat
control levers to OFF and note that selected engine power is restored.
Do not keep heat selected FULL for long periods or excessive power loss
will result, with very little indication from the manifold pressure indicator. During
normal flight operations the carburettor heat control
levers should be left in the OFF position. On aeroplanes with Mod
NB/M/304 embodied, an improved control system enables the pilot to vary the
application of heat to the carburettors, in conjunction with a
carburettor charge temperature indicator, to achieve the placarded
charge temperatures. These aeroplanes are distinguishable by the
ratchet mechanism incorporated in the carburettor heat control lever
assembly.
(That’s from Britten-Norman themselves back in March, 1987.)
As for the actual “Good / warning / bad” ranges though, I’m not sure at the moment.
Found a snippet from someone who said they were a CFI online:
As air flows through a carburetor, it expands rapidly. At the same time, fuel entering the airstream is vaporized. Expansion of the air and vaporization of the fuel causes a sudden cooling of the mixture which may cause ice to form inside the carburetor. The possibility of icing should always be considered when operating in conditions where the outside air temperature is between 20°F and 70°F and the relative humidity is high.
I am not a licensed pilot. I’m a sim guy. It makes sense though - the rapid change in temperature coming in to the carb could cause icing. Wow. I never really thought about it in the warmer temps listed above!
I can tell 'ya that since the Trislander, carb icing happens enough that I put a carb temp gauge on one of my FIPs and I use it in both aircraft!
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That’s rather like being surprised a fridge works when it’s hot
The Tri will have some issues if the needles are in the yellow band, at least.
On the contrary! Cooler air is more dense, so a naturally aspirated engine has more power, when it is colder.
Outside the yellow band means outside plus our minus. In both cases, you have lower risk of carb icing.
I was considering that it might be cold enough that the carb’s frozen up completely already, if it’s humid it was a small jest anyway, it wasn’t anything engine performance related. Cool dense air does indeed do wonders for engines.
Extending or retracting really pitches the nose up or down, respectively. After takeoff, when I bring the flaps up, I have to crank the up trim and on landing, once I drop the flaps, I have to go hard on the down trim to keep from stalling. Am I doing something wrong? Is this normal in the Islander? I don’t remember this behavior in Version 1.
Also, trimming for level flight is giving me issues. I get into cruise MAP/RPM, level off, and get to a constant speed, then try to trim. I am unable to trim the plane to stay level, in porpoises up and down slightly constantly.
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Fixed in V2.1
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Haha oh, I see! Did not get that.
But after looking at the screenshot of the gauge again, I’m scratching my head. It marks a region of 0°C to +15°C carb temp. I had a look in the POH of the C172 of my flying club which also has a carb temp gauge. There, the danger area is between -15°C to +5°C. It says “keep needle outside yellow arc during possible icing conditions”.
So it is definitely true, that there can be significant risk of carb icing in positive outside air temperatures because of the already mentioned venturi effect. But I would expect the danger area of the carb air temperature gauge to be at least partly in the negative region. Have a look here: C-GZGO | Britten-Norman BN-2A-26 Islander | North-Wright Airways | Ian Duke | JetPhotos
One more word about very low temperatures: the lower the air temperature, the lower the maximum amount of water the air can carry. So very cold air is also very dry, thus icing is less likely.
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VR zoom works like a charm, for the ones, including me, that find the feature essential, dev did a great job with the upcoming implementation!
@MojaveHigh2379 I did one single flight with this after purchase yesterday and noticed the same but thought, being only one flight, that it was me coming too fast I can confirm the same, flown high and low wings in real life (currently high wings) and of course you get a kick (up or down) but I too noticed it was a bit too much, said that the dev is all over this plane!
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Never flew much addons with damage modeled… Does this new update simulate damage?
I was doing a flight to Great Barrier and I was adjusting the RPM and the mixtures with great care…
( okay I was pretending to know what I was doing)
On intial apporach 4000ft, I went full mixture and full RPM but there was no full noise and no thrust 
did I do something wrong…
Its been added or is coming soon? If soon are you testing it?
Check your Carb Temps as per my post just above. I’m betting you had some engine icing going on.
Yes and Yes so if you, like me, were on the fence buy it because (with some extra TLCs) is most definitely my favorite so far. There is still a small issue with default camera location when switching in VR but that is being fixed.
It works really well and smooth so implementation has been spotless there, happy with my purchase!
Ooo I’ll watch my carbs:pizza:… Been reading alot about them on the tri islander forum.
Repaints for the many liveries I have, is there a conversion thing we need to do ourselves or will most of them be updated by the respective uploader?
That answer it is probably with the respective painter on the flightsim site