I now have a Quest 3 as an experiment to see if I can get it to give me a good experience in FS2020, I have tried VR before, a couple of years back on a Reverb G2 but the tiny sweet-spot made it a no-go for me, I didn’t know anything about oversampling etc back then.
Anyway, I had it connected via the quest link yesterday but had no idea of settings to tweak, I know it will need tweaking as I only have a 3080Ti and want to extract the max possible.
Last night I loaded VirtualDesktop and today I added the VD Streamer app as directed by VD. It connected but only over my very poor wifi and the result was, as expected, useless.
I cannot find any up to date videos on the 'tube as the app have all moved on so much. I hate “stabbing in the dark” as it usually ends up with a PC loaded with all the wrong apps or just an unstable mess.
Is there a simple, detailed, step-by-step video, blog, site or anything that will help a relative noob like myself connect via cable and tune for maximum quality?
I recall things being tough with the G2 but hoped it had moved on since then, seems not as there is so little real help available still, if you want to get the best out of it.
I can say that my OpenXR runtime is Meta Quest Link but in VD it shows VDXR, I have not got any of the graphics quality sliders anywhere, there is no debug tool either.
I’ve not tried with cable link so I may not be able to help you very much here. I just plug mine into mains with a long USB-C Charging grade cable so I don’t need to worry about changing batteries during long “sessions”, paying for all that extra gear and having the extra weight on my bonce. I can fly endlessly and it stays on 100%.
Assuming you mean the VD bought through the Meta store (which is the correct one, not the one available for desktop / Steam), that ONLY works via WiFi so I’m not sure what help and setup you’re after. If you use that, then you can’t use the Meta Debug tools. But you can use Open XR Toolkit to optimise things.
The basic graphics options are in VD if you press the small button on the controller whilst wearing the head unit but NOT in VR mode in the sim yet. Where you configure the Streaming settings. There are other settings in the VD Desktop app that also gets installed (Codec selection etc).
May be worth you buying a cheap ish WiFi 6 spec router if you want to use VD and having it as a dedicated 5Ghz only access point just for the Q3 (that’s what I do).
But you’re asking for help with cable link and the standard Meta App here or??
3080Ti should still be able to give you very acceptable results with DLSS Balanced and perhaps Godlike in VD (or just Ultra) and some carefully reduced settings in the sim itself. My friend has a Q3 and non Ti 3080 and gets smooth play. Can’t be too greedy even with top end stuff but sounds like the guide you followed are giving those settings. What exactly are you struggling with?
Well now that you have bought it why not give it a proper try?
It’s very efficient and you can probably reduce the Bitrate to work on your WiFi without really losing much clarity. I run that way lower than others (80mbit is fine for me, with audio also going over the air). Others run 120 up to even 200 but I really can’t see the difference and if I go higher I sometimes get the audio crackling and breaking up.
What router have you got and how far away from your head is it?
My router is not wifi6, its also downstairs and the signal is poor upstairs, ok for say a printer etc but i had the office ethernet wired as it is 100% reliable.
I dont want to buy a new or additional router really and wanted the cable so i can charge as well as play
The cable won’t provide enough juice to do both from your PC. It needs to be from the mains to give enough power to keep it topped up. Best you can have is it depleting a bit more slowly… but also that cables bandwidth is going to be shared with data (to some degree I think). That’s why I’m determined to make the wireless work.
Any way you can move the router and plug your PC into it, and wired back to the house feed? Is it fibre?
As I say with forced lower bitrate (50 or less) you might not NEED 6 or 6E.
Also even a “cheap” 6E router won’t break the bank. Mine was like £45 but I am thinking of getting a bit better one to see if I can get anything more from it. It’s hard to know if some breeds of stutter come from the sim or transmission after the sims done its work!!
For simplicity, stick with the Meta Quest Link app via USB cable. (Especially as your WiFi is rubbish!)
To change the resolution, (https://www.meta.com/en-gb/help/quest/articles/headsets-and-accessories/oculus-link/link-performance-preferences/)
Start with the sim on DLSS balanced and see how you get on.
Tweaking possibilities are endless - different DLSS settings, different resolutions in the Link app, and then for the brave and/or stupid you can look at Oculus Debug Tool, Oculus Tray Tool ,OpenXR toolkit, etc. etc.
But start as above and play with those two settings (Link resolution and DLSS in-sim) until you find a reasonable balance between performance and graphical fidelity.
Thanks,
it certainly not installed so i’ll grab it
Edit…
I just checked that link and the was the one i used - it is loaded onto my phone not the PC, then I clicked the “Meta Link App” button at teh bottom of that page when on my PC.
Obviously I am having a bad day in the brain department I think…
Two days ago I had the Q3 working and I even managed to load FS2020 and go to VR mode.
Today I cannot for the life of me figure out how I did that - I can’t remember how to view my PC desktop inside the Q3 !
I don’t think I used virtual desktop, or did I? - I tried that again but it uses wifi and the connection is terrible - it was not using wifi before for certain, I am using the USB link cable and its testing at 2.4Gb/S so that seems ok. I have my refresh at 72Hz and my quality at 1:1 at present.
Also, my frustration with the Oculus software is because it’s not called “Oculus Desktop” anymore - the only app I have is “Oculus Link” and the settings are all inside there, so thats one thing. The Debug tool is most certainly not installed on my PC nor can I find it anywhere on Meta’s site.
I just cannot figure out how i got into my PC on day one?
LOL. I think that motion rig has shaken some brain parts loose mate!
Maybe this will help:
How to Connect Meta Quest 3 to PC
The first way to connect your new Meta Quest 3 VR system to a PC is physically. We don’t mean just placing your headset onto your computer, though, because that would be silly. What you want to do is download the PC Meta Quest app, then turn your headset on and use a big old USB 3.0 cable to connect the headset to your PC. You then need to open up your settings in the headset, select system, and then choose Quest Link. This will allow you to connect.
Hi 3080 ti Q3 user here. VD is what you need to push resolution as high as to be able to use DLSS without losing too much detail especially on glass cockpits. But with no wifi6 VD is a no go, at least it was for me until I got a cheap wifi6 router that did the job.
With the Oculus link software and USB 3 cable my advice is to stick to res of 1x, 1.1 max in the Oculus app and start with a MEDIUM preset settings in MSFS. Textures can be set to high or even ultra. Fine tune other options until you’re happy with the frames. TAA recommended for the clarity of glass cockpits.
Thanks for that, good to see another 3080 user on a Q3.
I’ve just spent a couple of hours on the sim, played with all AA settings, TAA is the only one that may work, currently it’s at the point where i’m almost there but not quite.
It seems with TAA, a FS2020 render setting of 120 and AMD FX Sharpening of 200 is the best it will give, thats with Link Res set at 1:1 and 72Hz refresh. I find that if I turn the render up from 120 it makes the whole image shimmer or wobble a little, a render of 180-200 drops FPS to a slide show.
I forgot to try turning up the link resolution but will certainly give it a go.
It’s a pity that it [Q3] can render the desktop in wonderful clarity but FS2020 just beats it down
Rather than going WIFi6 (which is still an option) can any benefit be had with the OpenXR tool stuff or are they not compatible?
Also, If I went Wifi6 can I just set it up so I only have the router in my office, as some sort of repeater? I’m not sure about adding a router but do know I cannot get rid of my existing WiFi5 unit.
You didn’t answer me if you have fibre and that ISP provided “router” is what your connection coming in to the house is plugged in to?
Assuming yes, and you have an ETHERNET WIRE going up to your gaming PC?
That is same as I have (BT Fibre Home Hub downstairs, cable from that up to my gaming room). Then you can insert the WiFi 6 router to the end of that cable, and your PC into another port on the router with a shorter Ethernet cable (cat 6).
Set router as an ACCESS POINT ONLY (you usually do that in the browser-based configuration utility interface) and also disable the 2.4Ghz channel. Give it a name and password, and then set Quest 3 to connect to that. Don’t add any other mobile devices or anything to that router to keep it ‘clean’ and dedicated just for the Q3 bandwidth. This way your PC will see “through” to the fibre connection at full speed and the data for Q3 will go FROM your PC to the router at high speed. Then the WiFi 6 (or 6E) finally sends that signal to your headset. I have mine about 1m above and behind my head, with line of sight and no other “interference” stuff between.
From the VD Discord, these are the best options at different price points:
Community Tested Routers
The following routers have been reported to work reliably from a number of users.
High End (AXE) - TP-Link AXE300/AXE16000 ($450 US)
High End (AX) - Asus RT-AX86U ($300 US)
High End (AXE 6E) - Davolink ‘Kevin’ Minion 6E ($129 US)
Dedicated (Wifi 7) - TP-Link BE9300/BE550 ($200-$300 US)
Dedicated (AXE) - TP-Link Archer AXE75/AXE5400 ($160-$200 US)
Low End (AC) - Opal GL-SFT1200 ($50 US)
Low End (AC) - TP-Link Archer C6 or A6 ($40 US)
TP-Link AX and Huawei routers have been known to have issues we are unable to identify. Higher end TP-Link AX/AXE routers not listed here may work well but as with any router not on this list, should be considered untested.
The TP-Link Archer AXE5400 is not the same thing as the Deco AXE5400. The latter is a mesh router and may not work as expected.
You have to remember that the desktop is a (fairly) static 2d image. Rendering hundreds of buildings and landscape features with individual geometry, twice! (each eye’s image is different for VR) while computing the weather, clouds and aerodynamics and systems of your aircraft will inevitably be a little more taxing.
I had a 3080Ti and ended up getting a 4090 and I still crave more graphical fidelity from my VR experience. I also went from G2 to QPro. (After Rift, Rift S)
Set your expectations accordingly - this won’t be 4K clarity regardless of settings!
Apologies, I don’t have fibre here but I do have a fairly complex smart-home setup all tied to my router, I did try moving that upstairs once but the signal downstairs fell to sub-par for the smart-home stuff, I think the router transmits in a bubble over and round itself so anything below the router gets a very poor signal.
The WiFi6 router set as an access point makes sense, If i do go wifi then this will be the way I go, thanks. The TP-Link Archer is well mentioned elsewhere, the others are out of budget at present.
This is where I’m at - I miss the visual clarity of my triple screen setup but also crave the cerebral immersion only 3D VR can give, especially in a motion rig.
If I can get it to a usable point, I will keep both I think - 2D triple and VR.
If only we could get true 4k quality from VR, I am mightily impressed with the lenses on the Q3 though, not having a sweet-spot is a big leap.
Is that a separate download from the setup wizard?