Had my honeycomb Alpha for about 18 months now and just a few days ago it suddenly started giving me problems.
My planes were all turning excessively to the left.
Looking at the sensitivity graph in MSFS it was showing the centre point about 2 squares to the left instead of the centre when the yoke was central.
I used the Windows calibration tool and that fixes it for about 20 minutes then the calibration drifts off to the left again.
I also followed the honeycomb guide for internal calibration
But the problem of it drifting left still occurs.
The only workaround I have found so far is to use an old program called DxTweak2. It still mostly works ok with Windows 11 but you cannot save the settings so have to manually change it each time you startup Windows.
As you can see the Raw data for the X-Axis is off to the left at about 115 (128 is the nominal centre point). So to correct for this I change the Cen setting to whatever the Value in the X-Axis Raw box shows and then click apply.
My yolk is then usable again until I next start Windows when I have to then use the Windows calibration tool and then enter the values back into DXTweak.
Only takes a minute or so so it’s not too bad but I’m a bit annoyed that the Honeycomb appears to be giving problems so soon.
Just an update to this if anyone else is suffering from calibration problems.
After persisting with manual calibration and using Dxtweak to correct the issues, I finally gave up and opened up the Honeycomb Alpha.
It was out of warranty anyway so I had nothing to lose.
It’s fairly easy to open up, just 8 longish screws on the underside and then the case pulls apart.
I squirted some electrical contact cleaner into the potentiometer at the end of the shaft and tightened up a few screws that seemed a bit loose.
For the pitch movement there is no rotating potentiometer, instead there is a long metal bar (opposite side to the circuit board).
I’m sure there’s a name for this but essentailly it’s just a long variable resistance track.
I squirted this with contact cleaner as well and moved the shaft in and out a few times.
Checked all the electrical contacts and wiring looked secure (solder joints etc…)
Re assembled and ran the manual calibration routine, followed by a windows calibration and so far it’s back to working normally again.
If I open it up again I’ll try and remember to take some photos.
Looks like it would be eay to replace the potentiometer if I could find the correct spec, but I’m not sure if it would be so easy to replace/find the metal track that controls the pitch movements.
i am actually facing the same problem as you right now, my aileron axis is drifting to the left every time i boot up my pc and it is starting to frustrate me because i just want to play haha. Anyways, i will try your method out… i do not have any electrical contact cleaner, can i use isopropyl alcohol work as a substitute?
Hi, yes IPA will be ok, I thinks that’s what most contact cleaners consist of anyway. I’m a year on from fixing mine as I mentioned, and it’s still working fine
Hope you get it sorted.
The potentiometer is the part on the end of the shaft with the wires on it. Spray some electrical cleaner into that and rotate the yolk a few times, then leave it open so the ipa can evaporate.
If you pull the yolk in and out you’ll see there is a long metal track to the side that is another type of potentiometer for the elevators. Spray that too while you have it open, and then move the yolk in and out a few times.
That look like a very Low cost, non-sealed, carbon track Pot !!!
Bad that it is not sealed, as it will let dust in to contaminate the track.
Good that it is not sealed, as that makes it easy to squirt in Contact Cleaner.
I had the same issue with my Vintage MS Sidewinder II Force feedback joystick, when I started to use it after years on non-use, when I resurrected it for MSFS 2020.
Using Contact cleaner fixed the issue, and it has been 100% for the past 3 years.
For me it was the “Bravo Throttle” where suddenly 2 axles started jumping. I always use “GOLD 2000” for such cases. Luckily, with the “Bravo Th” you have the advantage that you can reach all potentiometers without having to dismantle/open the part!
For me the autopilot breaks out after a short period of flying time. So not the pitch axis but the roll axis was the issue .(re) Calibration doesnt work. After a very short time the AP breaks again. You can set a very large deadzone, but that breaks the immersion…
But there is also a simpel hardware fix for it.
See the post from from Arejax 21 oct. 2021 on the xplane forum ;
This fixed it for me.
After secure bind the cables from the potentiometer cables, make sure the usb c port sits correctly in the backplate, before place back the top cover again
Fixed it for me and now i can finally fly the AP for a long period.
I didn’t take my alpha apart because I assumed it used hall effect sensors… Being a £350 device! But no, a 40 pence pot.
I’ll dig out the IPA!
Thanks
Yes I agree, the Pot does look cheap and I’d have expected it to be hall effect.
Having said that, since cleaning as I described it has been working well for over a year or so now.
Glad to have found this post. Thank you for the explanations and photos I have the same problem after a year my yoke is no longer centered and it is drifting. I ordered some contact cleaner, I’ll let you know if it’s ok
Just an update. I used a large amount of switch cleaner (the stuff that smells like 1000 oranges with every squirt), and my Alpha is working perfectly again.
