Also working on a replacement for the $100 waste of plastic.
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I purchased this and just installed it. I’m happy with the height, much more realistic. I agree that it is overpriced (as are lots of things in this hobby tbf), and not an ideal solution, but I’ve also not seen a better option available.
I built this one for my throttle. Used 7mm plywood & suitable aliminium U tube. Works great
Kev M
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That looks great, unfortunately my DIY skills are so bad this sort of thing is beyond me. But well done on your solution!
Fortunately I have a desk with a shelf under the main glass top, although I did have to raise it with spacer blocks to fit the Honeycomb.
I followed this video and it worked perfectly. Didn’t have any of the materials so I bought them all at Home Depot (including the metal straps) - probably cost about $25 total.
I splurged and bought the Alpha and Bravo underdesk mounts (aka ‘Glider’)
It does require drilling holes in the bottom of the desk, and yeah, I have some concerns about the threaded inserts pulling out. But the reason I went with this was to reclaim all the space on the desk. Clamps, top plates, etc. just didn’t meet the goal.
Fortunately my desk is high enough that I don’t have problems bumping into them when flying. They aren’t 100% free of movement, but unless I’m really yanking on them (like trying to recover from an imminent crash 
) I never notice the slight ‘wiggle.’
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Process:
- Place a sheet of A4 paper over the top of the yoke/throttle.
- With a pencil, highlight the screw holes.
- Tape or glue the A4 template to the steel plate.
- Drill and countersink the 6 holes.
- Decide on how you want to attach the plate to the underside of the table, or use my method with the
‘‘Screw in Nuts/Knob’’.
Items brought from both Amazon/Ebay:
EBAY:
SGS Mild Steel Sheet Pre Cut Metal Plate. 100mmx400mm
h**ps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274910621628?var=575182281627
Amazon::
DXLing 60 Pieces M8 Zinc Alloy Hex Socket Screw-in Nuts.
h**ps://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08DR4QH75/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Uxcell Clamping Screw Knob, 38mm Dia Plum Hex Shaped Grips Star Knob M8 x 20mm Male Thread. 10pcs.
h**ps://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07R478LQX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ATOPLEE Countersink Drill Bit Set,1pc 90 Degree High Speed Steel Counter Sinker Drill Bits for Wood,Metal, Fiberboard, Plywood, Plastic, PVC(5-10mm, Silver).
h**ps://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01DVK1I56/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
GALAX PRO Drill Bit Sets (21PCS), HSS Titanium Drill Twist Bits Set with Plastic Carrying Case for General Purpose in Wood Plastic and Soft Metal Sheet.
h**ps://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B083D3V8NW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I did something similar with the throttle. Searched the garage and found a brass door push plate. Drilled some holes in it and screwed it to the underside of my wooden desk.
“ This is a great idea. Are the 6 small hex screws strong enough to support the yolk? I hate that the honeycomb takes up my whole desk and I can’t drill holes in my desk as it’s made of granite.”
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I wonder that myself.
On their website Honeycomb says it’s not recommended because that area was not meant to support any kind of weight.
I tried it with a piece of flat steel and while it does work I see that it rocks very slightly and that makes me think the screws will give way from metal fatigue eventually.
I reverted it back to original.
Be interested to see what happens with this kind of setup down the road
I am trying to solve a different problem with the Bravo and wonder if anyone has any clever ideas. I need the Bravo fully set back — so nothing (or, almost nothing) extends beyond the front edge of my table. This would require some kind of under the table setback mount OR a stand on the table that lets me raise it up enough so I can push it back from the front edge of the desktop.
I guess I can build a little stand but wonder if anything else might exist off the shelf.
Thanks.
I have purchased two of these, one for the yoke and one for the throttle. They are well designed, 3D printed, work extremely well and are delivered with all of the necessary fixings and downloadable instructions (QR Code). The units are easily removeable and the same fella also produces wall mounts so that they can be safely stowed when not in use. The desk requirements are defined in the listing. To compensate for the lowering of the controls (about 4"/100mm) I have simply raised the desk by putting wooden blocks under the feet.
I took another approach. I mount my yoke, the usual way, on top of the desk. But under the desk I have a drawer, with a front mounted on a hinge. So I can open the front flat with the bottom of the drawer and put my keyboard and mouse there, below the yoke in front of it’s mounting clamps.
The drawer rails are even mounted in a special way - I can pull it to front more than the usual drawer, this gives me more space for my keyboard and mouse. And I can push it also deeper, so not colliding with my legs when my yoke is removed and I use the desk for my work (keyboard and mouse on the desk then). I use adjustable-height office chair - high for work (no yoke, keyboard on the desk), low for simming (yoke on the desk, keyboard and mouse in the opened drawer below and in front of the yoke mounting clamps).
See the drawings - “camera” under the desk pointing upwards at an angle. The big rectangular thing in the center of the picture is the heating radiator under my desk.
Drawer in extended position:
Drawer in fully stowed position, not colliding with my legs/hips, when desk not used for simming:
Top view - drawer fully extended (you can see the drawer on this picture like a solid box - in reality it’s a regular drawer, but with front panel on a hinge).
On the right side I have another drawer. This one is equipped with detachable front. I can also lock drawer in somewhat extended position via small bolt inserted into drawer side panel. Works well for mounting my Saitek throttles. The are ca. 10 cm (the drawer height) lower than the yoke, mounted to the drawer bottom plate.
I found a rather naff, but free small bedside open cabinet, which after removing the top, fits nicely under the desk with the Bravo on top of it and mounted to the little shelf that was left exposed. Cost? Nil.
In fairness I discovered a slight potential weakness in that the swivel desk chair could at a real push, damage one of the levers. I am a firm believer in Sods law and am toying with the idea of top mounting to the desk but for many, this might offer possibilities.
Clever solution.
But does that interfere with positioning your rudder pedals ?
Here’s my solution.
I did this with the Saitek Pro.
Works with the Honeycomb with 6” c clamps