Long-term experience with the Turtle Beach VelocityOne Rudder?

Hi, does anyone have long-term experience with the Turtle Beach VelocityOne Rudder?

The rudders did quite well in the tests I read and saw on YouTube. But I would be interested in your practical experience. And most importantly, if you would buy them again?

PS: Xbox compatibility doesn’t matter to me.

Still love it after almost 1,500 flight hours. Would buy it again.

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I can’t remember exactly when I bought them. Certainly more than a year ago. Working great, would repurchase.

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Same as above. Working great, would buy again. No notes.

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The fact that it cost more than the average it is why?

I have the velocity one, the stand, and I am thinking to buy the rudder

Probably the build quality is better than average gamer gear, that’s why. Think about it, something with moving parts that sits on the floor, gets kicked around, and is expected to reproduce reasonably accurate movements for the sim to guide flight path: needs to be robust to be useful and last a long time. A famous maker of bicycle parts once said “light, strong, cheap; pick two.”

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Thank you for the helpful answers. :+1:

An Amazon review, however, left me wondering. Was the user just unlucky, or is the connecting rod in the middle perhaps a weak point in the pedals?

Here ist link to a video from the amazon customer review:
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/S/vse-vms-transcoding-artifact-eu-west-1-prod/ee28cbdc-7c64-4224-b5be-9f57e440e3a2/default.vertical.jobtemplate.hls.m3u8

Hi, you asked for our long-term experience here; I think it is up to you to evaluate the validity of other information and decide for yourself as a consumer which is more informative for you, ok?

Yes, of course. I really appreciate the experiences of people here in the forum, which is why I asked here.
I would also like to sincerely thank you again for your answers.

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I have been using the Turtle Beach Velocity One rudder pedals for quite some time. I have had a problem for around the last couple of months. I can not get the individual toe brakes to work properly in MSFS 2024.
When I set each brake pedal to the left and right axis the brakes do not work correctly. The Left brake seems to be fine and but the right brake always stays on at a value of 50%. The only way to get moving is by pressing down the right brake half way ,which releases it and the plane begins will move.
It is way to touchy and makes the aircraft uncontrollable on the ground.
The rudder pedals show up twice in the user interface as well with only one set able to assign controls to.
I have currently disabled the differential braking as it has not worked for quite awhile in 2024. The rudder pedals work great in MSFS 2020 and actually really like them.
Has anyone else experienced this problem in MSFS 2024? Does anyone have a solution.

Rudder pedals issues in 24 are not specific to TB, and there are multiple posts across multiple threads; suggest using the search function to suss this out for your set-up. I have differential braking and the pedals are behaving as expected in 2020 and 24 right now.

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So, today my TB pedals arrived. The first impression is that the workmanship is really quite neat. I’m running them without springs right now because I also fly helicopter from time to time. Feels precise.

However, I noticed a little thing. The Rudders have a dead zone. Not a big one, but still noticeable.

Is there a way to configure the pedals so that you don’t have a dead zone? Unfortunately, I only found one software (PC) with which you can update the firmware.

Have you checked the rudder/tail rotor sensitivity curve in control assignments?

I’ve been using these for a few months and I mainly fly helicopters. I haven’t noticed any dead zone and the dot on the sensitivity curve moves smoothly through the full range.

I’m using a straight curve for tail rotor but tweak to flatten the curve near neutral for rudder or nose wheel steering.

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Yes, of course I checked the controller setting (Hardware settings) in msfs. In the settings, I noticed the dead zone around the zero point. The point remains minimally short when passing through the zero point. Maybe you only notice it when you don’t have any springs in it. But as I said, the dead zone is really minimal.

But thanks for the info. Tomorrow I’ll check it all again.

There are also sensitivity curves for each individual control assignment as well as the overall hardware setting but if you haven’t edited them they should be ok.

Like I said, the dot moves very smoothly along the whole curve when I monitor it while moving the pedals so I don’t have any dead zone at all.

So, I’ve examined the dead zone behavior again in detail. It’s definitely the case that there’s an area in the middle where there’s no movement, and it’s not symmetrical. The dead zone area is larger towards the left. I also checked this with a joystick tester program.

I might have gotten a model with minor manufacturing defects. I sent it back today.

I think I’ll go with MFG pedals.

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I’m on Xbox so I have to have the pedals connected through the TB Flight Stick. I don’t know if that changes the behaviour at all. I also don’t have access to any other way of monitoring the movement.

They work well for my needs. Hope you find a good solution.

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I just wanted to say thanks again for your suggestions. Since I don’t often stick my head under my computer table I failed to notice that in fact the rudder pedals had a piece of plastic break in the pedal angle adjustment area. This caused the right brake pedal heel to drop down about one inch and completely changed the axis.
I am not a heavy person and am very easy on my equipment, but I think the weight of my heel on the bottom of the pedal must have caused the plastic to break.
I will include some pictures. I was able to repair the pedals using a rubber block attached to the bottom heel area of both pedals. I then attached a low friction piece of teflon to make the block slide easily.
My differential braking is working now and the rudder pedals are operating properly with no binding.
I didn’t want to bother with a return.
Thanks again



There do seem to be a few similar issues with the plastic parts failing in pedals like these, and not just the TB ones. You don’t need to be particularly heavy-handed (footed?) with them, the issue occurs over time with fatigue and repeated use, and eventually something is going to break.

I use the VKB T-Rudder MkIV pedals, which are simple and very strong due to their all-metal construction. They won’t be ideal for everyone since they don’t have toe brakes (I use the finger axis on my stick for brakes), but they are fantastic for warbirds & helicopters and work perfectly fine with everything else.

Moving from plastic to metal pedals made a huge difference for me - you can rest your feet on the pedals themselves or on the heel pads without any fear of stressing or breaking them, and the strength and construction makes fitment of a damper simple and worry-free.

For long term use, a set of metal pedals whether from VKB, MFG or Virpil are a fit-and-forget buy, thanks to the additional strength they offer by virtue of the construction, and they aren’t massively more expensive than the plastic versions.