Need hardware interface help

Having great fun with MSFS helicopters. I wish to construct a collective from scratch. I have the material and construction skills but I would like to have a pointer to the best hardware interface and how to create software drivers. I actually enjoy research but I find so many different paths to take. I welcome any input, especially with respect to difficulty and cost.

I realize that this has probably been asked many times but perhaps it’s time for some definitive answers for beginners collected in one place.

Thanks

It has indeed been asked many times.
Search is your best friend .

https://forums.flightsimulator.com/search?q=Helicopter%20build%20collective

Thanks! One does not always know which magical search term unlocks the information, i.e. I used the term “homemade” rather than “build”.

BTW, the first three (at least) entries in your search result are for mechanical designs with little to no interfacing. Also, as I said above, there are so many that I asked for suggestions about which is BEST.

[EDIT] Looking through the list generated by your search, I see only commercial products.

Thanks for your input, in any case. Happy holidays.

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You could also try just using Helicopter Collective, and going through the results.
There may be more ideas there!

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I tried your suggestion but still getting commercial products only.

I would’ve thought I’d see some arduino or raspberry HW interfaces.

Thanks anyway.

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You could check out this device: BU0836X 12-bit joystick interface from Leo Bodnar
It allows you to connect potentiometers, rotary encoders, switches & push buttons.
I used it to connect two mini joysticks (X,Y) to move cockpit/camera views. Also I added some rotary encoders and normal switches. You can experiment easily as all connections are through the spring terminals. The best thing though is that is needs no drivers and can be setup directly from MSFS just like any other USB flight control device. If you do use rotary encoders you first need to remember to configure it using the encoder config software from the vendors site (took me a while to realize this). The only slight downside is that there are no outputs for driving LEDs. Also it may seem a little expensive but I think it’s worth it as it is so versitile.

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Leo Bodnar is the best solution.
Pro-Tip:
Do not buy cheap potentiometers!
Never ever!

Leo Bodnar is the expensive option. It’s ok i suppose if you can’t do your own but making your own on an appropriate Arduino for much cheaper and being able to customise to exactly what you want is more satisfying.

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Look into some of the other DIY flight forums online. Lots of information out there you just have to search for it.

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There you go. I ain’t no rich kid. My peripherals are all 15+ years old. I can construct complex projects in my garage, but there’s also a fun/tedium threshold.

Recently, I added a couple of cheap WalMart tablets for switches and indicators. I use SimDashboard on one and TouchPortal on the other. SDb is solid, inexpensive but limited. TP is much more programable but a bit touchy. Anyway, I don’t need HW switch input.

The key to a good collective/throttle is translating the limited rotation angle to a maximal rotation of the pot shaft. I’m thinking gears or pulleys. This means much more resolution than a direct on-axis connection.

I have a spare Raspberry around here somewhere. I have some old surplus mil-spec pots as well. There is no need for feedback from simConnect. Leo’s 12-bit joystick interface may be overkill but with my parts bin, Leo’s is all I would need purchase. OTOH, if I find or create the right firmware, the Raspberry might be all I need. Of course, in either case I’d need a power supply. :wink:

Do you have any specific suggestions? If I can construct a collective that works, I may move on to a cyclic.

This is the one that I built:

Uses Hall effect for collective and potentiometer for throttle.

Works well, but it does require a 3d printer to make some of the parts.
Includes details of the electronics.

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Wow! Thanks for your input!

Key issue here: 3D printer. :wink:

The data includes the printer files and having the files printed commercially is fairly cheap. It only needs a basic home printer, I used a Creality Ender 3, so you may be able to find someone local, or a friend.

It’s more than just a printer for me. The Hall effect sensor is a special component that I don’t have in my parts bin and I may be the cheapest man on the planet.

After finding that my spare Raspberry has no A/D convertors, my fun/tedium threshold was exceeded and I ordered a 12-bit converter from Leo’s. (see above) I have everything else I need, so a working collective may be ready when the board arrives.

Thanks again. Your work is exemplary!

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I should make clear that I am not the designer, I used the design I found on the net.
FYI Hall effect sensor chips are cheap, about £1.50 on eBay. :grinning:

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Here’s mine. Helicopter Collective with inter-changeable heads by Thick8 - Thingiverse

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I am not a heli guy but I would look into using an arduino Mega/Uno or Nano with Mobiflight. I use this combo for planes and it works great.

This may also help…https://www.737diysim.com/copy-3-of-build-guides-1

and here:

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I should note here that the fun part for me is figuring out a way to produce something and then actually producing it. I like designing and fabricating machines but soldering wires and components tends to get tedious (and toxic), especially point2point. I do not need to design something that lasts forever, so I can take shortcuts fabricating my one-off particular “something”.

But wow, thanks for all of the helpful info. If I get this all working, perhaps I’ll post a pic or 2.

Me too. I did buy a quality soldering iron which made that part of the fabrication much less painful. I also found that using terminal ends makes the wiring process much easier. A lot of time I just use a terminal instead of solder.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTHCG5T
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016B39EPQ
https://www.amazon.com/Heat-Shrink-Tubing-Ratio-Diameter/dp/B07G1GD6ZJ

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Thanks for that. You are very kind.

I’ve been soldering for 50+ years. That’s why I don’t like doing it. :wink:

Happy holidays!!