I am replacing my CPU before the warranty runs out and while I am doing that I decided to switch to the Arctic Liquid Freezer III Pro 360. The Arctic instructions and youtube videos seem to be pretty straightforward, is there anything else I need to be on the lookout for or do different that would make this better? The MB is a MSI Pro-z790 P WIFI.
Also, would there be any problem with me switching from a 14900kf to a 14900k? I don’t really care about the integrated graphics, but they have one on the shelf at the local computer shop that I can pick up and not have to wait on the KF to be shipped to me.
I have the same motherboard and CPU. Additionally I have another PC with a 13900K with the same motherboard. There is virtually nothing different between the 14900K and 14900KF other than the latter lacks integrated graphics like you mentioned. Just be sure to update the BIOS to the latest. Additionally I use these settings and my PC is very stable…
It’s already been a year with my i9 14900k, Corsair 420mm AIO cooler, 850W power supply and ASUS motherboard. It doesn’t overheat (70° Celsius maximum). Very stable. No problems at all.
After seeing a thread on this forum about keeping BIOS updated and checking temps, I checked mine and shared them with tech support and they said I needed to swap out the CPU. Its been fine for months, but I called again tonight and the tech guy said undervolting was just a bandaid and it should be swapped out. The system works too good and is very stable, I don’t think I am going to deal with the hassle. I think I am set on changing the cooler and letting it ride.
Fair enough. Your original post implied you may be swapping it out only because it was nearly out of warranty, not because there was a specific issue, which sounded unnecessary. Thanks for clarifying.
Originally they told me I had until March to make a decision because that is when the builder warranty ran out, but tonight tech support said the Intel warranty would be good for 5 years. I am not convinced that what they would send me would be equal to or better than what I have so I am just going to take my chances with it.
Maybe you read my posts about Intel 13th and 14th gen degradation, BIOS updates, and the fact that Intel extended the warranty. I also wrote that I returned my CPU i9 13900K to Intel and they refunded me for it.
I’m wondering if they’ll replace your processor for free? If they suspect it has already degraded, they should replace it under warranty at no cost to you, without any extra payment on your side.
Yes, after your help back in August (thank you) I was able to get my temps under control and all was good up until December when WHEA CPU errors started showing up on the HWINFO reports and weird CTD’s started. After doing some research on the Asobo crash report file, one of the recommendations was to reset the BIOS back to stock. Sure enough, the WHEA errors went away and everything is stable. Due to the fact that its been a super cold winter the system is running much cooler, but the cpu spikes still occur and will get much worse when summer returns. Since the builder offered to swap the CPU out within the year (March) I figured it was worth it to start over and upgrade the cooler while I was at it, especially after reading more about degradation:
“CPU’s do experience a small amount of degradation over time (like all electrical components) and so you may have to back off a little on your undervolt, usually by 10 - 20mV at a time. If you keep your computer for many years, you may find that you have to do this procedure more than once. If you find yourself having to make adjustments in months and not years, you may need to take addition steps, including contacting Intel about an RMA.”
If CTDs and WHEA errors suddenly start appearing on a 13th or 14th gen Intel system, the first thing I think of is an Intel CPU that’s already failing and likely on its last legs.
Luckily, the seller/builder of your PC seems to be thinking the same way and is willing to swap it for a new one - if that’s free, that’s absolutely the right move. At this point you can either replace it or, like I did, switch to Ryzen. I don’t regret the switch at all.
If for some reason you want to stay with Intel an Arctic Liquid Freezer III 360 Pro AIO will be perfectly fine for that CPU. I used to cool my 13900K with an NZXT Z73 (also a 360 mm AIO).
Just make sure that after the CPU swap you properly reset and reconfigure the BIOS, apply undervolting again, and enforce Intel-recommended power and LLC.
Unfortunately, a 14900K today performs very similarly to my 13900K did on the day I bought it years ago, partly due to Intel tightening power limits and changing the microcode.
Other than overheating, this system works really really good and luckily so far I have managed to avoid many of the glitches other users report about in this forum. If it was as easy as switching the CPU to AMD I would do it tomorrow, but if I have to switch out the MB as well I might as well take notes on components from this forum and start over in a few years with all new stuff. For now I am counting on the new cooler and cpu keeping things manageable for the time being.
So, it booted up and lights came on, so I haven’t destroyed anything yet. There was a generic screen that said new CPU detected, F1 for Setup or F2 for default settings…before I could give it an answer it just booted to Windows. I guess make sure the BIOS is current, chipset and drivers? Set fan curves and then see what kinda temperatures I get before doing any undervolting?
Also there was a “backing plate” on the backside of MB and CPU that was retained by the prior cooler’s screws, how important is that to have on there? I will go tomorrow and get the proper threaded shoulder screws to retain it if needed. If not I will put all the covers back and start enjoying.
Yes, set the fan curves, and importantly, make sure the CPU power limits recommended by Intel are applied. Then you can check the temperatures while gaming.
Before installing the new cooler, remove everything that was part of the old cooler. If the old cooler had a backplate specifically for LGA 1700 motherboards, remove that as well.
Motherboard manufacturers typically integrate power limits into their recent BIOS versions. Therefore, it is strongly recommended to update the BIOS and load the default values (load bios defaults) before making any other adjustments.
Some motherboards let you choose between the Intel default profile or an “Unlimited” profile with no power limits. I mentioned it to make sure the Intel default settings - which enforce the recommended CPU power limits - are active.
