- Post Your Cockpit Pictures Here -

I was going to use bodnar boards but the price + shipping put them aside.
Bought a few Arduino Leonardo compatible boards for about 15€ and converted them to hid devices by using mmjoy2. All good

PC21…

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Yeah, I guess if you’re in the UK it’s easier on the postage etc. For the convenience they offer I don’t think they’re overpriced, but I appreciate you can get Arduinos cheaper. That said, they always require more work to set up. Horses for courses, I think :slight_smile:

I think the MicroBBI might be the smallest interface I’ve ever seen, though. It’s the size of a postage stamp. Literally.

Was not aware of that… will check it out. Thanks!

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Very cool, I like it!

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Currently flying the A2A PA-24 Comanche.
There is no proper airmanager panel for that plane, so my touchscreens look a bit messy.

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Looks fantastic. 3 screens?

Regarding panels that are work-in-progress, I like to role play test pilot, as they deal with this kind of situation on a daily basis. YMMV :grinning:

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65” TV and 2 32” Monitors.
Dash contains 2 15.6” touch screens running airmanager

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Great!
I think there’s a bird strike imminent… …
:grinning:

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Love the ambient lighting too.

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Fantastic panel!

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DIY Motion chair… Fly exclusively in VR using Valve Index. About 40 hours into my PPL with 10 or so solo hours. My sim time in this chair/cockpit has helped immensely!

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Nice, I started a PC-21 some years ago. But the project got a bit struck. Do you have the correct screen sizes ? I tried finding it for years online. I ended up using 10" screens.

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Screens are 6 by 8 inches or 152mm by 203mm.
I found the sizes on one of those brochures and reading some articles about the aircraft.

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Right… my new Throttletek throttle panel is done. The trim wheel and switch panel are my own work (I’m not at the level of some on this thread, but I’m getting better!). Despite how it looks, my sim is not an Airbus sim (in fact I don’t fly an Airbus at all, yet) but this panel will be used for twin and single jets. I have a different panel for piston / turboprops based around a VirtualFly TQ6. Yes, I know the trim wheel is not A320-accurate, either, but it will do the job.

Still a little bit of touch-up and re-painting work to do - the panel doesn’t fit nicely, it’s slightly too large in one direction so it’s a squeeze fitting it in and a pain to take it out again (which is what the handles are for - I didn’t want to grab it by the thrust levers to lift it!). Only a mm or two, easily sanded off with some work, but I wanted to get a picture of it in place and test the electronics. Once again I’m using a Bodnar MicroBB USB interface which handles everything except the throttle quadrant itself, which has its own USB cable (and backlighting).

I also 3D-printed some Airbus-style switch caps for the engine master switches, but still figuring out how to attach those while still being able to take the switches out of the board if I need to. A job for another day.

Happy to be done with this project, or at least I will be later today and then I can take it for a fly!

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Next job, BTW, is to make new speedbrake and flap levers. I have a disassembled Throttletek flightbox (which is a desktop setup that combines the throttle quadrant, start panel, speedbrake, flaps and parking brake control in one box) that I bought a few years back with a 4-lever A380-style quadrant. It’s built very much as an integrated unit, but I believe I can print up some parts to turn the speedbrake and flap controls into standalone units, and also turn the A380 quadrant into a separate thing similar to the A320 unit in my panel I just posted, so I will have a four-engine jet panel for the AvroJet etc.

(I can’t post pictures of any of that stuff because when you buy from Throttletek you sign up to T&Cs which include a provision that you cannot publish images or video of any of the internal workings of the kit. I assume they’re worried about others copying their mechanisms. Seems a bit paranoid to me - it’s all simple enough to understand and there are no radically original techniques being used that I can see - but when I sign up to something, I honour it.)

I’m also going to remove the Stream Deck Mini (it’ll get used elsewhere) because I rarely ever use it in the current position - too far back - and will turn that area into a cubby hole for checklists etc. And I’m going to see if I can fabricate a more appropriate-looking parking brake switch.

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Nice project you have going there.

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Hi,

Still trying to figure out my Flight Illusion gauges, having an issue getting them working with PMDG 738. With that said, she runs great.

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Very nicely done and very realistic looking…Congrats!!!

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Update on my current project:

I extracted these controls from my old Throttletek flightbox. It’s a great piece of kit, but no longer fits my needs. So I broke it down into parts, but it’s a highly integrated setup so making parts of it standalone takes a bit of work.

So far, I’ve replaced the back-lighting. That was fiddly as hell. The original used tiny surface-mount LEDs soldered onto a ribbon cable; I replaced them with even tinier surface-mount ultra-bright LEDs which thankfully you can buy with wires pre-soldered on. I put a drop of super-glue into the holes previously occupied by the old lights, dipped an LED in each, then applied accelerator to make the glue go off instantly. Result: LEDs fixed in place where I need them. That bit was easy, it was the wiring that was the fiddly part! The ribbon cable approach would be easier but I had to deal with multiple pairs of hair-thin (0.25mm, I think) cables.

Since I want to feed this 5V and the LEDs can handle 3V max I needed to step down the voltage, and while I’m sure there’s a way to do this once for the whole circuit, I went for the recommended method of applying a 100 ohm resistor in series with each LED, with the whole lot being laddered in parallel. So I had to make a couple of small boards to handle that, glue them down to the inner surface under the panels, and then solder all the wires in place. Once done, a liberal application of electrician’s tape covers everything and stops those tiny wires getting snagged on anything.

Anyway… that all works, and now I have back-lighting. I’m waiting for some parts to arrive to complete the electronics on this, but that should be done later this week. Then I’m waiting for a parking brake assembly and locking switches + Airbus-style engine switch caps that I ordered from an outfit in Germany. They don’t seem particularly enthused about my order. Apparently my email server (ie Gmail) bounced the order confirmation email which details how to pay - surely that’s their fault for not being set up correctly? - and my email query was answered saying that they were on holiday and wouldn’t get around to doing anything before Monday. So with international shipping etc I guess the earliest I can expect to see that part is some time next week. The dangers of dealing with small suppliers, I guess :slight_smile:

Sadly I can’t post any pictures of the workings because of the Throttletek T&C issue I mentioned, but I think I’m safe to post this picture of the whole unit as it currently sits. The mechanism has been strategically blurred to avoid giving away their trade secrets (!).

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Hi,

Thanks!

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