have you had any issues again since this post?
TLTR: skip to last paragraph (and I apologize that I’m so verbose, this is me actually trying to keep it short)
This happened this past weekend and I posted to the HOTAS subreddit on Monday but figured I should put it here as well. And while I’m not a software designer or engineer (I’m actually a composer/performer) I honestly think this issue is at the root of most the X56 issues since I went into this only expecting a smoother throttle, but instead come out 15 minutes later with a flawlessly functioning HOTAS after a few years of trying all the recommended remedies and getting nothing. So the following argument was my attempt to rationalize to myself (and hopefully others) that simply tightening two loose screws could completely fix the issues with the continuous controllers (as we would call it in MIDI). In this case not only does it explain the problem of the jittery inputs, but also why some people’s throttles never seem to “break in” and become easier to move. Plus the assembly issues with the “sticky lube” all over the inside of the case explains the loose screws. So… here’s what happened…
I’m not the posting type, but I honestly think my conclusions are correct and maybe I can payback some of the help I’ve received.
TLTR: skip to last paragraph
On March 22, 2020 I purchased a new Logitech X56 setup from Amazon. I was completely new to flight sims and I had only recently gotten into VR as well, so I was having to research a lot of different issues at the time. I noticed right away that the throttle was hard to move and seemed to be stuck when I would try to move it. I read online that it just needed to be “broken in” so I decided to keep the system since it was the least expensive H.O.T.A.S. that I was interested in.
I didn’t spend much time with it or flight sims until MSFS 2020 came out that August. At that point I noticed an issue trying to use trim control where my input seemed to jump around making it impossible to establish a level flight. I would occasionally come back to MSFS and try different mapping setups, but the trim issue remained. The whole H.O.T.A.S. setup also just seemed slow to respond, but I didn’t know if that was a controller issue or if that’s how some planes actually responded.
Recently I came across discussions about the “sticky lubricant” used in the throttle and even though some people were saying it wasn’t an issue and you just had to use it for a month to break it in (something I had tried repeatedly, even sitting with the throttle in my lap moving it back and forth while I watched TV) I decided to at least open it up and check it out since I was out of warranty and had nothing to lose.
First thing I noticed was the sloppy assembly, with bits of “sticky lube” everywhere. Then, when I was examining the plastic rails attached to the lower part of the case, I noticed it wobbled quite a bit. The screw assemblies holding the rails in place were also covered with sticky lube. I couldn’t think of a reason for the rails not being stable, so I carefully tightened the two small screws that secured the rails to the case. I then went ahead and removed some of the excess lube and put it all back together.
The throttle moved much easier now and didn’t feel sticky so I loaded up MSFS to test it in action. I reset the controller mappings in game and tried a discovery flight. It all felt SO much better and I quickly noticed the whole controller setup seemed more responsive.
Then things got crazy.
The default trim control is the upper thumb wheel on the throttle and when I moved it… IT WORKED LIKE IT WAS SUPPOSED TO. There was no jumping around and I was able to easily make small corrections and maintain level flight.
I thought about this for a while and due to my long familiarity with MIDI (I started in the 1980’s) and the problems you could have if you used to much pitch bend or modulation wheel at the same time. I came to the conclusion that the loose rails had lead to a continuous stream of throttle changes being created which clogged up the data stream. This would affect all the knobs on the throttle and could even cause issues with the stick if the extraneous data then clogged the USB data stream.
Then I realized that since controller input was probably a high priority process in MSFS that all of that unneeded input was probably stealing CPU cycles, so I booted up VR.
And yup… I immediately noticed a rather large improvement in my frame rate, which you would expect when you lowered the CPU load on a CPU bound game.
Unfortunately I didn’t take any measurements to compare since I thought I was just changing the physical feel of the throttle and didn’t anticipate all this other stuff, but the changes are dramatic so I’m sure it’s not any kind of placebo effect.
I can even see how the sloppy application of the sticky lube could lead to it seeping into the screw holes allowing the screws to become loose.
If anyone has an X56 that just won’t “break in” (and there seem to be quite a few of us) consider opening up the throttle case to see if the rail is loose cause this quick and VERY easy fix completely changed my X56. It now responds like I would expect a somewhat expensive controller should.
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Thank you, this is so helpful.
hey guys , i too have great ghosting issues on my Hotas X56 setup specially with the throttle. so when ever i start my flight in msfs with in 5 sec the throttle and pitch goes crazy followed by air breaks , extract flaps etcs. here is the list of solution i tryed
- putting them into 3.1 , 3.0 and 2.0 ports (together and separately )
- tryed putting them into cheap 2.0 usb hubs
- played with RGB even turned them off
- check for windows and driver updates
Note- I ordered a power 3.0 usb hub and will update it’s result as well . i dont want to return the product as i have paid hafty custom duties to clear it and i had save for a couple of months to lay my hands on the setup . any solutions will be greatly appreciated
Also be careful of using any USB extension cables. The signal will degrade and cause symptoms like you are having.
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The only solution for me was to clean the stick contacts with isopropyl alcohol. The stick is unscrewed, cleaned and screwed on again.
I solved this issue with the X56 by using the front USB ports on my PC, rather than the rear ones.
This worked for me, sadly I have to plug the Throttle in each time to the back of the PC, rather than have it on its own Switched and Powered hub.
so what is the final fix? Thank u
I also had this issue with the ghost inputs on my X56. I was able to resolve it by using usb3 ports on my PC. From my experience, it seems the X56 is closely utilizing the max 500mA output of the usb2 port and if you don’t have a quality usb2 port or have an extender cable that is a little too long you can get the ghost inputs. The 900mA output of a usb3 port is more than sufficient to power the X56 and will typically resolve this issue (unless you have an usb2/3 extender cable that is too long or poor quality).
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Hi, how did you do to ad the 0.1 delay on the imputs ? I can’t with with the logitech app that come with hotas, should i use an other app ?
X-56 HOTAS Ghost-Input FIX <—
My X-56 worked perfectly up until the day it did not. I started getting ghost inputs in StarCitizen & MFS. Everything from self-destruct, to doors opening/closing, throttle issues.
I read all the proposed resolutions & some of them make sense to try. using seperate USB hubs within your PC hardware for instance.
Alot of stupid fixes are proposed like changing your RGB to only red?? -thanks for not helping anybody with that nonsense.
Here is how you can actually resolve X-56 ghost input:
your two joystix use the same internal logitech device driver which gets bugged & needs to be wiped from your machine. Use Logitech’s provided Windows Registry wiper to clean up their entries: you will have to search for it since this site is lame.
recalibrate X-56 hotas windows registry
After running that, then use the built-in Windows “Game Controllers” advanced config to touch-up any dead-zones for the “Saitek Rhino Throttle or Rhino Stick”
The registry cleaner is the actual fix, but the Game Controllers config will allow you to address any other tweaks needed.
That’s literally what solved it for me. Shows what you know eh?
I have found that if the cable from the joystick touches the cable and/or housing of the throttle ghost inputs happen. If there is no contact my setup is fine. Maybe a bad earth connection is not helping with the problem.
The X56 throttle & hotas are notorious for ghost inputs. They require power via their usb 2.0 cables that are at the maximum that the usb 2.0 spec can deliver. So a non-powered usb hub, extension cable, or a worn out usb cable will push it over the edge and when it can’t pull enough power you’ll get ghost inputs.
So ensure the cable cables are plugged directly into the PC or you have a high quality usb 2 or 3 powered hub.
I would try this, but I have no pc skills, and have no idea what you are talking about. I would expect a throttle quadrant to do as expected out of the box, this one does not. I will have to buy a better one, and lesson learned.
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