Hi, maybe not the smartest decision, however I’ve just purchased my second joystick (as above) and straight up its displaying the very same behaviour as my first purchase - a continuous drift to the right when in level flight. The drift has the potential to gradually increases, unless physically corrected, until the aircraft is flying on a wingtip and eventually stalls in flight.
The joystick configuration in Windows11 Control Panel properties all appear normal and the joystick Sensitivity settings in MSFS also appear as default.
If the problem is considered to be the potentiometer then this product is poorly designed ■■■■.
Can anyone help with this issue?
Many thanks
What about dead zones?
For testing purpose increase dead zones.
Start with 20% dead zone.
Click Done > Apply and save.
Check your aileron settings.
Go to Options/Controls Options/Sensitivity and increase the Dead Zone.
Hello, I also have the same controller, however there is almost no chance for a drift because it uses a more advanced sensor than the potentiometer (except for the rudder, which can sometimes have problems, but not so you go right)
Personally I’d check bindings of other stuff, like the keyboard, it has „Enter” bound as default to right rudder, and whenever I was clicking it to eg search online it was putting more and more right rudder over time until the plane started to fall down out of the rudder input
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Which plane?
If you’re not flying with autopilot, prop planes all have a tendency to drift due to propeller torque, so they may need some rudder or aileron trim.
The Airbus TCA uses magnetic sensors not potentiometers and as you have the same behaviour as your previous controller check the MSFS bindings and ensure you don’t have a conflict also try another USB port.
If flying was difficult engineers would do it 
I had same issue. Removed bottom of joystick and tightened screws holding the gimbal and joystick was recentered and drift was gone for me anyway. No photos sorry.
Was the stick purchased new or used?
If new, and the drift is definitely not eliminated by calibration or settings, I would be tempted to return and exchange it. You can’t be constantly correcting for a mechanical or electrical flaw like that.
I know that are more expensive, but if you want to stick with sticks then the VKB Gladiator is a significant step up in performance and quality from the Thrustmaster sticks. Might be worth considering if you can get a refund on the Airbus and add a bit more. In the long term, you’ll get a much longer usable life out of the VKB.
Personal Comments and Observations
Yep, I will never buy TM again after such a bad experience with the TCA. Wait until you get the infamous twist rudder wire pinch, there’s a couple of long threads here about it.
Moved to a full VKB setup, never looked back.
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Thanks for your suggestion re deadzones. I increased the deadzones by increments right up to 90%! (just to see if it made a difference) however no change in the drift pattern. Appreciate the assistance but I think i’ve bought a dud.
Thanks for your suggestions. I increased the deadzoness, in increments up to a ridiculouly high % however no change at all the the constant right drift.
Many thanks for your suggestion. Have checked all the bindings and see no conflict - I think I have a dud controller!
Thanks for your response. Flying a Cessna 172. Have tried assigned rudder and aileron trim however no impact on continued drift to right. I think I have a dud controller and Thrustmaster Support offer no solutions.
Thanks for your comment - I agree, can’t even get Thrustmaster to offer any solution. Have checked out VKB and appears some assemble required. I’m no techician so is setup a complex procedure?
Thanks for your comments. Yes the stick was purchased new - both of them. Thrustmaster support offers no solution and unfortunately I can’t return it (them) as I live in Australia and just wouldn’t be worth the frustration. Is the VKB Gladiator easy to assemble and set up?
Thanks for your comments. Gave your suggestion a try but no luck. Thanks anyway. Cheers.
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I"m not a DIY person, and it was easy to follow the video explanations and assemble the components the way I wanted. Not hard at all, just need uninterrupted time to do it and be organized.
Yes - to assemble the gladiator, remove the bottom plate, slide the grip into the gimbal, plug in the connector and screw the base plate back on. Then it’s just a USB cable between the stick and your PC.
VKB’s free calibration and configuration software might take a bit of familiarisation, as it is necessarily complex to offer the huge amount of control and customisation that it offers, but there are plenty of videos on the VKB site and on YT to talk you through it.
Thanks for your comments, I’ll try the Gladiator even though the calibration software seems daunting to a beginner.