I own the Thrustmaster TFRP T.Flight Rudder for a long time. Nevertheless, I hardly use them with MSFS, because I just can’t get the settings right. In X-Plane, on the other hand, the pedals are usable without any problems.
First of all, I smeared the rails with Vaseline because there were jerky movements.
Then I experimented with the curve in MSFS for a long time - without real success with small planes. Large aircraft are inherently much less responsive, so you can control them satisfactorily with these pedals. Since I have had AAO for a few days, I can use it to make individual settings depending on the type of aircraft.
Even with AAO it doesn’t get really good with small airplanes either.
Basic problem: The rudders react much too strongly to the smallest movements of the pedals.
Of course I can keep the turn completely flat without exponential part. But then I would not be able to make a turn.
If I use the Thrustmaster T.16000M joystick instead of the pedals, I can keep every plane straight very sensitively.
So I simply need a less sensitive reaction of the pedals and have already thought of a hardware intervention (potentiometer or similar??).
Does anyone have experience on how to reduce the sensitivity of these pedals?
Simply summarized: I need wide pedal travel with at the same time lower and more sensitive front wheel deflections.
I have the same pedals and problems.I have partially reduced the undesired effect by flattening the curve (more flat on A320 than C172) and improving the turning effect pushing on the right/left pedal brakes.
In addition, I have added 2 “dumpers” on the pedals ,toe side, reducing their responsiveness…Bumpers are made by rubber bands and their effect are positive…in my opinion.Cost near to zero.
Alternatives…there are many and very expensive, Maybe one day I twill go for a new set because I still have the orrible jerky movements despite I also have greased them with vaseline.
I have also the same problems. I think the main problem is the hardware itself. There is to less distance to get fine movements. I have also experimented with flat curves but a full side slip e.g. is than not possible. By little movements the stick slip effect is very hard , lubrication helps not so much- so I can not recommend this hardware for small ga planes. Mostly I fly the CTLS and the start and ground handling is a mess.
I agree with you.This is quite an entry level hardware ,just good to start and see if you like the use of pedal rudders.You may try one of my settings and see if the performance gets better.
Reduce the Reactivity setting. I think I have mine set to 45.
Sorry ,I posted an old pic. I reduced even more to 30% but I don’t see a difference if Reactivity is set to 30% or 100% . Tried on C172 and B747 too.Do you appreciate a difference? I might have an hardware problem. Sensitivity is a different matter and ,by changing the curve,you immediately feel the difference.
Be careful, each aircraft addon producer would usually work to the default sensitivity settings and small planes and especially gliders really can be very twitchy. Notwithstanding these pedals are notoriously bad, I have already replaced the centre spring with rubberbands which eliminates much of the sticking and have stuffed half a kitchen sponge in between the rails to give some extra resistance to end travel, it’s certainly not perfect but it helps.
Sorry but what are dumper respectively bumper?
How to construct these modules?
Dumper are like shock absorbers. You may have a look at the MFG Crosswind V3—They have a superb kit of hydraulic dumpers. I believe this will be my next purchase of rudders+dumpers.
https://mfg-sim.com/en/rudders/57-mfg-crosswind-v3-graphite.html
In the meanwhile I made my home-made set…see pic.Very cheap and they do an honest job considering their costs!
I agree. I also like yor solution.Was it difficult to unscrew the pedals bottom cover? I also wished to see how the spring is assembled but refrained to do that due to the big amount of screws…My fear was to mess-up the entire rudder.
You don’t need to take the whole thing apart, just remove the small plastic panel in the middle below the label (1 screw). Small long nosed pliers are recommended for the fix itself but I actually managed without.