Turtlebeach Velocity One Flight clicking sound?

[patrickb1973]

So have had this product for 3 weeks now and very happy with it but as of today when i push or pull on the yoke i hear a clicking sound as if you can hear a spring being pulled and pushed, its only if you push in a certain amount before tou hear it and same with pulling. Does everyone have this ?

[phutyoo]

There’s two big springs on a rod offset to the right of the yoke, with a carrier that puts the load over to that rod from the yoke column itself. There’s also multiple bushings for everything, so something could surely ‘click’. If you don’t feel it in the motion of the yoke itself I wouldn’t sweat it. Aileron quickly returning to center will ‘click’ as it crosses center, but only with abnormally aggressive turning or letting it spring back and forth. If you are in a vacuum with no other sound around you can hear spring noise.

It creaks and groans and clicks a little bit, it’s taking a lot of forces and it’s made of plastic. Randomly push on any part of your car’s dashboard and you’ll hear something creak or click, even a BMW with the ash hardwood and ceramic knobs packages.

[patrickb1973]

Thanks for asnwering, yeah it clicks when pushing forward at a certain point and then clicks again when pulling back like a switch it sounds like, just never heard it before

[phutyoo]

Here, from an older post. DON’T TRY THIS AT HOME It works fine as is and probably has been tweaked a little bit over time by TB. But if you wanna see some guts… And I even noted the throttle levers we were all worried about that still work perfectly fine after a few hundred hours untouched. I just went chasing stuff when I have $1500 DD racing base setups vs a $350 all-in-one that’s still an incredible amount of capability for less than one fancy add-on steering wheel.

@phutyoo

Well it’s lunch so here goes. This is the problem with everything designed on CAD and not enough prototypes. First off, the peripheral is BRILLIANT, can’t imagine this much at this price on an xbox. Back when I chased so much less for thousands of dollars per year in computer gaming. No matter what my complaints/issues listed are, at this price point I do not expect metal or teflon bearings or anything else exotic. If this item worked PERFECTLY with upgraded internals and some more designer materials at $700+, I would still be in.

A: Is the main yoke support, with a nylon bushing surface inside. It has slop. By ITSELF, it does not bind. B: is the carrier/cassette that transfers load to the spring shaft(the small board to the left is the position sensor). This part sits in a track on the bottom, but has no support on top. This allows it to rocker its forces in a triangle with C/D spring shaft and bushings, which do NOT have much slop. And here within is where it binds.

In the world of CAD, I guess it was assumed that it would always be pulled back perfectly along the yoke shaft axis. The only ‘fix’ would be a major design change. Either support A would need to be made from a firmer metal material with better bushings, or support B would need to be molded into the top case to keep the shaft moving as designed.

Nothing explodes or flies apart if you take the case off. It can be clamped and used with no issues with the top case off. I spent a LOT of time with this as any modifications were not reversible, so did not want to go ‘too far’. in one test. So took this thing apart a lot of times. First was general examination, testing as is. A lot with the case off so I could fly around and IMMEDIATELY stop and see inside the box what I was feeling when not trying to make anything ‘happen’. Also, when ‘testing’ we tend to push the yoke ALL the way in and ALL the way out, when in reality we’re moving it 1/4" and holding, then gently releasing. All the ‘binding’ that feels so bad happens in a tiny amount of travel(at 200+ kias it’s not so ‘tiny’ to move the yoke 1/8"). THIS IS ONLY FOR MY PARTICULAR UNIT AND I DO NOT RECOMMEND ANY OF THIS…

For each part I also tested CLP, Ceramic grease, Lithium white grease, and various other lubricants. I settled on Ceramic R/C car grease(common in Tamiya RC cars). The materials are similar.

A: Yoke shaft, using a quality plastic safe grease(RC Ceramic) helps slightly. Fairly loaded on the inside. Outside only goes in a small amount. The inner bearing surface sees a higher load/angle. I did not disassemble any of it. There’s no real fix, but it helps. This does not fix binding.

B: Carrier/Cassette Track, a little grease on the contact surfaces. Just a dollop on each rail and let it find it’s way. It’s not in full contact everywhere. Helps a little bit. Also does not help binding, just fidelity.

C: The problem child itself. Inside the carrier on the spring shaft is a bushing. The spring shaft must be removed to access it. To see if this is the primary suspect, I outright removed it first and tested. The carrier slops up and down when turning but 80% better. There are slight ridges in the mold(see the wear marks). And that is after initial sanding. They BITE at the slightest off-angle. I started extremely mild and ended up opening it substantially, possibly a MM or more. Gave up on 3k/4k and went to 450 than 1200 then back to the finer stuff. I did some slight additional shaping to chamfer the edge and open the outer part slightly more, as the bushing rests to the outside of the force(some of it just me being fancy).

D: The spring support bushings have these spongy additional washers added(D1). They have adhesive on the backs but some has leached through the foam and where it rests in it’s center cradle, it slightly bites in and sticks a little(D1). D1 Shows the center point with the carrier moved out of the way. Again we are talking minutia of movement so we sense that tiny ‘stick’, react, and then feel the bind, etc. I dumped the sponges. The bushings on the spring shaft also have a little bite if the slightest bit off center(molding not the greatest and plain industrial nylon, not Teflon impregnated fancy stuff). So cleaned those up, nowhere near as dramatic as the carrier bushing. Had some minor binding issues with the same ridges in the mold. Just kept tweaking it until it didn’t grab at the slightest off-center movement. Lubricated with ceramic grease.

Another issue is the springs. Again designed in a vacuum of CAD, they are ‘perfectly’ designed to only work perfectly. I VERY CAREFULLY lengthened them about 10-15% for more positive centering. They are progressive wound and excellent for keeping the same ‘tension’ throughout the pull and you really need to be carefully lengthening a spring(can’t say I recommend trying this).

The spring shaft bushings needed the ‘slop’ to accommodate slop from the yoke. The design of the center spacer area still does not allow 100% centering, but I can’t imagine anything with a center point under tension from both sides to be 100% perfect, a controller joystick certainly does not. There is still a padded face to the spring stops, so it does have a tiny variable of it’s compression depending on how it’s ‘set’ to that center rest. So I go with 3% dead zone and still about 37% of negative sensitivity on pitch(and rudder). Seems to balance forces well with the aileron input for forces applied naturally(not when you just stare at a dead peripheral and play with it).

This has removed all binding for me, even when you hold a position and or have it at ‘rest’, where both the sponge sticks and the bushing(particularly the ridges in the molds) ‘bite’ back down on the shaft. If you are lazy and rest downward pressure on the yoke, it will firm up the pull quite a bit(as the yoke bushing also tightens down on the angle substantially), but doesn’t ‘chug’ and skip on the shaft any more. Easy to get lazy resting on the yoke flying trim and tiny corrections, playing with camera hats, etc for 20 minutes before initializing an elevator input. Anything remotely ‘normal’- less then cranking down on the yoke- is butter smooth to match the other inputs.

Again, I don’t endorse this, just a moment in time.

And to be honest it wasn’t terrible out of the box but I’m ■■■■ picky. Spent too much time in hobbies getting 5 different linkages to all have the same amount of resistance at every ball joint for something to sit neutral just under it’s own weight.

Technically just tweaking the 3 nylon bearings for more clearance (and the ones in the yoke shaft for less) with better molds and plastic compound could go miles to helping things without re-inventing the thing. Wouldn’t be surprised if those get updated somewhere along the line. Now for those pesky ‘loose’ throttle levers…

[FormableCello79]

I was looking at your photos showing the inside of the Velocity One Yoke. You mentioned that in photo “B” the small board to the left of the shaft is the motion sensor. Is that the same thing as a non contact Hall Effect Sensor? If so do you know the exact sensor TB uses? I’m wondering if my sensor might be having an issue. My elevators work fine but sometimes the ailerons become canted to the right and they get a little jumpy. Hope to hear back from you.

[pilot8388]

hi, may I trouble you for a suggestion. I dropped velocity one yolk from standing height, since then the aileron axis and rudder triggers are not detected by MSFS and yolk itself. I ran the TB recovery tool, it reverted the firmware to older version so i updated it again to V1.4.0, nothing improved, every other button and axis is working. out of curiosity i opened it up see if anything is broken. everything seems intact and all wires are connected. i don’t know what part is actually damaged. is there anything I can do about or is it going straight to the bin. please comment. Thanks you.

[FormableCello79]

The question you have to answer is- How long have you owned this yoke? If it is less than a year you could contact Turtle Beach and see if your warranty would allow a replacement yoke to be mailed to you. If it’s older than 1 year then the warranty is expired. Turtle Beach offers no paid repair service on their yokes. I found this out when my aileron controls were acting up. When I wrote TB for help they said there was nothing they could do for me because the warranty was expired.

[pilot8388]

Hi, Thank you. I am past that point, received similar message from TB. any other thoughts?

[DHendrik09]

Hello everyone,

I have now bought the VelocityOne Flight and am satisfied so far.
After about 2 hours of flying, I’m writing to you now

Is there anyone here who has been running this good thing on the Xbox for a long time?

A few questions/problems:
The yoke is currently very “jerky”. The zero point is in the middle and it noticeably “clicks” into place, like a kind of magnet that pulls the yoke into this position. Certainly the point when both springs are relaxed. This is really stupid, especially when landing, because fine steering is almost impossible. Does it become a little softer or smoother over time? Speaking of feathers. They sound really scary and squeak a bit. And when I push in and pull out (quick movements when steering) the stop on the springs (in the middle) sounds something like the trigger on a pinball machine. With you too? Normal?
I put the SIP into operation normally. It shows what it is supposed to do with the standard board. Now I’ve watched some YT videos and read on TurtleBeach, but I’m none the wiser. Can I also adapt the SIP on the Xbox or can I just use the standard board?
The display on the Yoke has a brighter area at the bottom right. It looks like the housing is pressing there. I would describe it as “not evenly lit”. I could basically live with that. Or is this possibly due to construction and also for you?!

Here a video:

3. Dezember 2023

Any Tipps?
Send this one back and a new one?

[patrickb1973]

It will definitely get smoother over time. I had a new one because my first one was a production problem but with the new one I have had now for 15 months and after like 2 months it became a bit smoother. Definitely also enjoying this product and handles great.

[DHendrik09]

You get the same „sounds“?

[patrickb1973]

That is the spring you hear