That would be a different button and probably a different issue as this issue is caused by wires breaking from the movement of the throttles over time
By looking in the Windows Game Controller you should see a button turn red when you pull the throttle lever full down past the indent. If you see a Botton turn red it means it’s not the Bravo
I will look into it, thanks for the tip!
As GruesomeEight explained, your TR’s are not the issue and you likely just need to bind them properly. The problem many of us have been plagued with is the TO/GA button on throttle 1, which becomes frayed over time due to poor routing or insufficient strain relief on those wires. They are extremely small (like 24 or 26 gauge) and it does not take much to fray them.
God you wouldn’t beleive it
My 3rd Bravo unit has developed the same broken wire fault on the second axis from the left.
It’s still under warranty but is such a pain having to have to send it back again 
The last two units have failed after about 6 months of use (3-5 times a week for a couple of hours)
I wonder if they have solved this engineer problem?
Sorry to hear this. My replacement unit has not had the problem and I have several hundred hours on it by now. Hopefully you get a good one next time. The odds must be in your favor.
Wow. For such a spendy product I hope they really realize the problem and work on this, luckily I have not had this issue yet. I’ve had my alpha and bravo for about 3 months now.
Yup I’m now on my 4th unit so I guess I’ll find out in about 6-12 mths if they’ve solved the engineering design fault. I’m suprised I don’t hear more people complaining about this!
BTW the reverse button #11 not working is a bit missleading because it can affect the reverse button on any of the 5 axis’s.
Bravo owners should check to see if their reverse button (Go-Around Button) is working on all 5 axis’s as any axis can suffer the same broken wire fault.
My experiance has mainly been broken wires on first 3 from the left as they get the most use.
So booked on my google calander a reminder about a month before my warranty runs out to check all axis’s. I’m kinda hoping that I find another faulty wire so I can get another brand new unit 
Edit:
…and I still don’t regret purchasing it as there is nothing out there that comes close to it’s funcatiionality, versatility and ease of setup for it’s price.
Agreed. Nothing comes close.
After about 9 months usage I had 3 wires broken on three axis (could clearly see the broken wire ends through the slots) So I decided to take it apart. I replaced all the switch wiring on all five axis (there’s none on the sixth) with thin silicone hook-up wire. Lucky I had a roll laying around. The original wiring is way too hard, prone to breaking and I didn’t want this to happen again. You need the same thickness wire due to the way it is constructed. A big job that’s not for the faint hearted as the whole throttle bank has to come apart and there are many parts. I’ve soldered them to the contacts and on the other end used the original board connector which I cut off from the original near the connectors and re-soldered. This side is not moving as it’s connected to a circuit board. Anyway I’m confident now that it is permanently fixed. For those who dare I’ll include a link to the very flexible wire I used.
Thank you for the tip.
I have same problems after a year of use. First started with one axis, now 4 are broken.
When you made up the new wiring, does it mater which way round the board connectors are plugged in ?
I must go and search for the correct type of wire and then find the courage to take the thing apart.
Regards
The connectors are keyed and only fit one way. For the broken wires just follow the wiring from a still working one (axis), they are all the same
Same for me, i had it exchanged once, in 2021, now the replacement doesn’t have any more reversers left, I’m writing to Aerosoft where i bought it, let’s see, is this still a problem with newer units? Does anyone know?
I bought my Alpha/Bravo kit in 2021, now the TOGA switch and the leftmost rocker switch are gone u/s, I guess it’s time to get out the tools… it’s a bit disappointing given the cost of these devices.
Just realized 2 out of 3 wires are broken in both engines 2 and 3. Nice… I’d never used reversers or TOGA up until now, so no idea when these broke. Guess I’ll have to open Bravo and try to fix those wires as per the video above.
It’s a well known engineering design fault so contact your retailer or Honeycomb. Depending how far out of warranty it is they may honour it!
Thanks for the suggestion. I bought mine through Aerosoft over 2 years ago, in April '21 so it’s definitely out of warranty by now. I’d contact Honeycomb directly, however I’m not particularly warm to the idea to switch the Bravo with a (most likely) refurbished unit, which no one will guarantee if it has the same design flaw or not. If I understood correctly no one has confirmed that the issue has been fixed even with the latest revisions of the model.
I’d rather try to fix the cables on my own as per the above video. It looks like it’s relatively straightforward to disassemble the Bravo and detach all throttles and wires, though the guy in the video didn’t provide specific details. Then a spare CAT5 cable could be sacrificed to get wires of similar gauge, then some soldering covered by long heat shrinkables and finally some hot glue to keep everything in place. Can’t say I’ve done all these combined before in one go but it seems like a decent exercise and it’ll hopefully last longer than any Bravo refurbished unit.
I’m on my 4th unit now (yes 3 unitis failed with the same broken wire problem) but everytime my retailer replaced them with brand new units. My first unit was about 3 mths out of warranty but they still honoured it. This 4th unit has lasted the longest but I’ve got a note in my diary to check it before the warranty runs out LOL
Ok I’ve got a weird one and my search brought me here. Button 9(#1 reverse on 4 eng) not working with throttle 1. I put a different throttle on and it works. Must be the handle right? Well I move the handle and place it on throttle two and it works button 10. WTH?
So, I have had the button 10 and 11 issue on and off (mostly on) for a few years. Not sure if it’s a hardware or software issue but I found a way that works for me to get it back working again (it just doesn’t last more than a few flights unfortunately)
(the precise order you do these steps and how precise you are in doing them matters very much, don’t ask me why)
Go to Set Up USB Controllers in Windows
Click on Honeycomb Bravo then Properties
Then click the settings tab
Hit Calibrate button and click Next button to start the Wizard
Move the Axis buttons as directed in the Wizard (don’t worry about being able to go in circles), hit a button on the Bravo (I use AP on) and then click next and move through the axes
WHEN THE NEXT SCREEN SAYS TO SAVE YOUR CALIBRATION, HIT FINISH (BUT THE NEXT STEP IS IMPORTANT)
DO NOT HIT APPLY YET, HIT THE SETTINGS TAB AGAIN IN THE UPPER LEFT HAND CORNER BEFORE HITTING ANY MORE BUTTONS, AND THEN HIT “Reset to Default” and then APPLY (don’t ask me why, it just works for me)
Then click the TEST tab, and if you did the steps precisely right, buttons 10 and 11 will light up again.
If anyone figures out how to make this stick, as opposed to having to do it every three or four flights, I would be indebted. Thanks.
Does anybody have a wiring plan, so it’s not trial and error when I resolder all three wires on lever 3?