So, not being a radial engine guy, I’m a little surprised that the engines are prone to Carb Icing under normal circumstances.
Certainly Carb Ice is possible under the right circumstances, (narrow temp/dew point split IIRC), but I would not expect to turn Carb Heat on in, say, June in Phoenix.
Also, in regards to giving the engine a “shot” of Carb Heat in the landing pattern, isn’t it customary to have Carb Heat on for any low power operation, including landing.
I recall it being discussed in these forums previously, but I remember being taught to select Carb Heat on in the C152 anytime the throttle was below the green RPM arc…which is every landing.
According to the Twin Beech manual, if manifold heat is needed on approach it should be set to COLD prior to landing so that full power is available for a go-around.
I think radials of this vintage relate differently to carb heat than more modern inline engines. Certainly, a lot of other radials in the sim behave exactly like this Beech, in that temps will very often fall in the yellow caution range of the dial. Not all these other planes simulate the actual potential icing, however.
As far as I can gather, the correct way to use carb heat in old radials is to actively regulate it to ensure temperatures are either higher or lower than the range where icing can occur. So not necessarily full heat, just enough to stay out of the yellow.
Radials are a lot harder to maintain, tend to leak oil, and have quite a bit more profile drag. Inlines tend to have a much smaller profile but not cool as effectively since the cylinders ahead of the ones to the rear can block the airflow and tend to warm the airflow over the rear cylinders, unless proper ducting of the shroud is designed (hence the advantage of the radial design).
-New external sounds.
-Improved interior sounds with phasing and loop problem solved or at least mitigated.
-New custom sounds for rough running engine.
-Detonation ignition modeled.(Due to the effect complexity, it requires reading the manual to be fully understood).
-Rough running engine modeled.
-Persistent fuel quantity.
Electrical system improvements:
-New batteries: persistent voltages, voltage decay with low temperature, longer time to recharger under low temperatures, faster time de deplete its levels with low temperature.
-Almost all systems amperage changed to match real counterparts.
-Some electric circuits that didn’t have any system associated were removed.
-Now Nav2 radio, transponder, DME and NDB radios have their own electric circuit with correct electric load that is tied with their state.
P.S: electric system overhaul is still WIP.
-Improved flight model much noticed during take-offs and landings.
-Improved ground handling when free-castering wheel is in use. (Still far from ideal due to MSFS SDK limitations).
-Engine performance adjusted. A little more speed and less fuel consumption.
Less intrusive stall warning horn during landing and takeoff.
-Many small tweaks and fine tunings like EGT, engine wear, oil system, anti-ice system, etc.
Updated manual with index, information on detonation, electric system and detailed checklists for all phases of flight.
They do nothing at all and yes I’m using the mouse just as with previous versions. I’m deleting the app data folders for the aircraft to remove any stale underlying data and I’ll see if that improves anything.
I just deleted my mod instalation and reinstall the uploaded version from fightsim.to just to be sure there wasn’t any problem with the public version and fuel pumps work as expected.
Let’s wait to see if anyone else has this problem.
Thanks for checking. I deleted the mod as well as any appdata folders associated with the d18, rebooted, redownloaded and reinstalled and the issue persists. I suppose it could be a conflict with another addon, but that process to find out which one will take some time.
Just to be clear, you know you have to have tank selectors in front tanks and electric energy for pumps to work, right?
After turning on batteries, could you check their voltage with ammeter? You have to depress ammeter button to show voltage.
I was checking them with the tanks set to front and the battery on. Regardless, shouldn’t the switches still move physically or are there conditions that need to be met in order for the switches to function? Thank you.
