You could look in the aircraft directory for the original checklists
Yes I had studied these and they are very helpful. I was just looking to fill in the blanks. For example, when to adjust propeller RPM and how this affects the plane’s performance. The magnetos, you can select left, right or both. I found that a bit confusing and it just raised more questions. I am enjoying learning this plane and forgive me but I get a bit involved. I imagine what it would be like to actually sit in the cockpit, start, fly and land this thing. We can compromise sitting at our desks but in the real thing that is not what you would do. You have done such a wonderful job crafting this beautiful bird. I guess I like to fly something like this with full respect. Please keep up the wonderful work on this plane. I can’t wait to see what is coming.
One of the cool things I learned about the plane from the POH is that the flaps are not speed limited, you can drop them at any speed. Of course, if you’re going too fast, they don’t exactly drop
Point being, there’s always cool little nuggets you can get with a little research on your own that maybe you find interesting, but nobody else does necessarily
You are dead right there. That’s why I am doing my own checklist. Also, I use the Thrustmaster Warthog and setup a controller profile specific to the plane I am flying. Really interesting point about the flaps. This is the sort of detail that is great to find. I will incorporate that, thank you.
PS, perhaps you already know this, but, for the sake of redundancy, almost all planes have two magnetos per engine, in case one fails, then it can still run on the other. So, in the case of the Goose, that’s left and right magneto per engine.
Also, the engines are only rated to run at full power for a couple of minutes, so it’s very important to follow the POH rpm levels in the checklist and reduce power immediately after takeoff, which, isn’t necessarily obvious from the checklist…
Oh, I thought the Left Magneto was for the left engine and the right for the right. In the Sim I was finding I had to use the right magneto for the engine. Is that not the case?
There are two magneto switches, one for each engine, that control two magnetos per engine, and each switch travels through Off-Left-Right-Both.
During runup, the pilot will run the engine up to say 2000 rpm, and then switch first to right magneto, then back to both, then to left magneto, then back to both, each time they switch off a magneto, you should expect to see a 50 to 100 rpm drop on the engine being tested. If you don’t, that means there’s something wrong, either a loose wire, a bad magneto, something…
Applied my paint, looks better than it did in FSX. What a difference in shading. Also, I noticed the gear retracts too far or incorrectly and displays in the cockpit on the floor instead of in the sight windows. But I don’t care about that so much right now. Thanks for making this available.
Now THAT is the best explanation I have heard. I am sure other fastidious detail freaks will be grateful for this. Play time
I can only speak from my experience with other old prop aircraft in sims like the DC6, Constellation or B377.
In those old planes you have 3 factors to influence the engines behavior. MP, RPM and MIX. High MP creates high temperatures and wear on the cylinder. High RPM does wear the propellers and is also loud. High MIX does use a lot of fuel, but actually cools the engine.
During climb you need all the power and cooling you can get, but you cannot do this for an extended period of time. That is why after takeoff and after climb MP and RPM are reduced. A further benefit is more comfort (less noise and vibrations).
Reducing the MIX actually increases the power a bit (noticable in an MP rise in real aircraft) before falling off. It also increases temperature. But, done correctly, it saves a lot of fuel.
Thanks for that explanation, sounds a lot like tuning my two-stroke moped!
As the POH and included checklists say, you only use max power with these engines on takeoff (and to escape from a Zero), for climb you reduce to within limits. You’ll notice that with the throttles and prop all the way forward, the gauges are in the red. The POH is available a few texts up.
These insights are very helpful. I am looking forward to doing further research and experimenting. Do people feel the model responds in a realistic enough manner or are there areas that still need work? For me, I wonder about the braking response, it feels very heavy and you can easily tip the plane forward. Now perhaps that is as much a result of the device being used but I am trying to manage landings and taxi manoeuvres a bit better.
I’ve never flown a real goose, or a tail dragger for that matter. However, braking with any tail dragger is a real issue that you have to be careful not to tip forward. In fact, I’m pretty sure people would say that MSFS is a little too forgiving in this regard for tail draggers.
I an tell you all the brakes in MSFS are much stronger than they are in than those in the Piper Warrior I fly
Hopefully I’ll get a chance to fly in this one someday… (I volunteer here)
That’s awesome you volunteer there, wish I could be around this plane, I have seen one once in real life.
If you have a spare 2.25 mil laying around, you could always buy your own!
Radials are awesome and all but I love turboprops.
I have sat in it a couple of times, but not while flying.
In case there are some fans of the TV Series “Archer” around. I’ve made a livery of Sterling Archer’s Loose Goose from “Archer: Danger Island”
Thanks for the idea. If I want to add the phantom rudder, do i simply manually add “point.9” or do i also need to add the values after it(as seen in your screen shot)?
Without the values it is pointless.