I just got two Logitech Throttle Quadrants and I’m having three main issues.
The signals “vibrate”. It actually causes the mixture level to constantly slap against the dash, making clicking sounds.
The levers aren’t balanced. I have about a 5% difference on the two left most when assigned to Throttle 1 and Throttle 2.
Some of the levers don’t make it to 100% or 0%. I can even see that reflected in the cock pit.
Anyone have luck with these?
Make you’ve calibrated them in windows.
I tried downloading the software from Logitech but it won’t install on a 64 bit machine.
Do not use any software or drivers for Logitech throttle quadrant, rudder pedals or yoke. Windows manage them very well.
You have to calibrate them with Windows applet (joy.cpl) or using DIView
https://heusinkveld.com/download-diview/
how old are they? Mine exhibit similar behavior and just racking them back and forth a lot helps to clean dust and gunk off the contacts so they read better. Not perfectly smooth still but good enough
You can try to calibrate, I did and it didn’t make any difference. Again, if they are old it could just be wear
if it’s a mixture lever, do this: Fixed mixture axis with Saitek/Logitech throttle quadrant - MSFS (2020) Tips and Tricks Forum - The AVSIM Community
That helped some to get 100% but I still get shaking. They are also very inconsistent from 0 - 100%.
For the most part it works okay in the sim. Deepening on the setting level they may be anywhere from 1/8 to 1/4 inches off.
I may scrap the dual setup. I think it’s more PITA than it’s worth.
Mine are new out the box.
Do you have a USB 2.0 port on your PC? If so make sure you’re using it.
It’s inexplicable given it’s 2022, but the Logitech/Saitek throttles really don’t like anything other than USB 2.0.
I was having the same issue and had to buy a cheap USB 2.0 card from Amazon which vastly improved the jittering (to the point that I no longer really notice it). Logitech’s tech support is useless, and only acknowledged this issue when I wrote to close my case and inform them of the self-discovered solution.
It really isn’t great that something being sold now as a modern piece of hardware only works properly off technology that modern PC’s don’t have anymore. It’s also very poor that nowhere, on any bit of supporting data, do Logitech mention this.
I no longer have USB 2 on my new build!
If you have an old USB2 or even USB1 hub (preferably a powered one), try with it.
You must calibrate them, or it won’t work ok.
Device Manager/Devices and Printers/right-click the device/Game Control Settings choose Properties or using DIView.
It will be easier if you calibrate by plugging only one at a time, and without any other controller plugged.
Question: are they both USB, or is one plugged into the yoke ?
Only once they will be OK under Windows, you’ll have to finalize in MSFS.
To bind them for twin engines planes, see here (a bit long, but really step by step):
https://forums.flightsimulator.com/t/re-assign-logi-throttle-quadrant-axis-sliders-prop-to-throttle/444856
Neither did I.
I bought a card that allowed me to use USB 2.0 and it got rid of 99% of the jittering.
It’s not really acceptable in my eyes, but that is the solution.
This was it, although it’s no longer available sadly (in the UK at least).
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B08FSXR4XF?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
I may have a USB2 header on the motherboard. I might be able to get an expansion plate for it.
It really bugged me because I’d had a support ticket open with them for this problem for quite a while. They didn’t suggest anything at all that was remotely useful or helped solve the problem.
After much Googling I stumbled across this 2.0 solution so went for it as the Pci card was very cheap (£13). Happily it solved the problem. I then fed that back to Logitech support and got a response along the lines of ‘oh yes, we recommend our products only be used with USB 2.0 ports’. I suggested in as sarcastic way as I could that perhaps it would be really very helpful if they shared that info with their customers, even just once. I also suggested it would be really helpful if their drivers were compatible with 64-bit machines. It won’t surprise you to know that all of it fell on deaf ears.
This was another option that I ordered and returned. It might do the job for you…
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0025X4K92/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I hope you manage to sort it. I’m sure you’ll be able to find a card like that somewhere. eBay maybe? It’s ludicrous that we have to purchase ancient technology like that to get this Logitech product to work. They ought to update the flippin thing and drag it kicking and screaming into this decade.
I just ordered a back plate for $9 that will fit the MB headers. I appreciate the help! Support these days at many companies has just gotten to be a joke. You are lucky to make it past automated bots.
I still don’t have hopes for the calibration but perhaps calibrating them on USB 2.0 will work better. All levers seem to have a different idea of what 75%, 50% and 25% mean.
My Thrustmaster devices all work nicely on USB 3.
It takes about ten minuts. Why not trying ?
CA-LI-BRA-TION!
You can’t calibrate peripherals in Windows anymore, not like you used to be able to do.
joy.cpl no longer has a calibration option.
I did calibrate, but will try once on USB 2.0 again.
It depends. I discussed about that with The Sevenflyer here :
https://forums.flightsimulator.com/t/flight-controls-throttle-quadrant-problem/500387/57
He don’t have calibration anymore, but I do.
Anyway, you can calibrate with DIView available here :
https://heusinkveld.com/download-diview/
I have the three lever Logitech Quadrant with six two-way buttons. Are yours the same?
If so, Windows recognizes them by default. No drivers needed (or effective for that matter). USB Game Controllers applet will show you how well or poorly the potentiometers are worn on the units. If they’re noisy, you can try cutting down some ear swabs (thin out the cotton buds) and use isopropyl alcohol to clean the contact channels. I also had luck with old swabs designed to clean Digital SLR sensor surfaces as those were thin enough to fit into the lever slots.
Other than cleaning, not much you can do. Inside the sim, you might be able to define some dead zones using sensitivity settings, but that all depends on where in the individual lever “throw” path the noise is happening.
That is what I have, two of them. And both new out of the box.