I’ve been checking out the Elegoo Saturn 3 12k printer. The quality and speed that it can put out is amazing.
Even Using a 0.2mm print nozzle with a layer height of 0.1mm the layer lines are very noticeable with an FDM printer. I’d also like to be able to see the finer detail of small prints like dials, handles, and such. Plus, I wouldn’t have to CNC and laser my faceplates. I could just inset the lettering and use a syringe with a mix of white paint and reducer to fill them in. I’ve tried it with FDM prints but it doesn’t come out as well because the print is too small for an FMD printer to resolve. Which is why I use vinyl faceplates.
I think this would look better as a resin print.
I bought last year used a large Phrozen Mega S, it has a build volume of 330x185x400, larger than any of my FDM printers. But making an enclosure to support such a large printer is quite the challenge as I am really trying to avoid getting a resin allergy, because once you have it, generally it won’t go away and it’s almost the end of printing out of resin, you get really bad rashes. I also intend on getting an Elegoo Mars 4 as they have an amazing 18 micron layer height if you have the correct resin for smaller parts, this should allow me some decent options to print out of resin.
I do plan on CNCing my front plates still, or laser cutting them, as it’ll be faster, and stronger and will allow me to engrave my parts (though you could engrave resin, you’re putting resin dust in the air, not great for breathing)
The only issue I see with resin is that it’s more brittle than FDM printing, if that poses a challenge for flight sim parts I have no idea, but I know some of the DIY 737 guys use resin for knobs.
In terms of text, you can use White Silicone like what’s used in bathrooms, it’s a bit messy but it worked well for my laser engraved acyrlic panels for my C172.
Never thought of using silicone. I’ll have to try that.
I just checked the local Craigslist and found this about 10 miles away for $350 OBO. It’s been listed for over a month.
Anycubic mono X 6k resin printer with Luxs wash and cure station
Large format 9 1/4 inch LCD screen
both printer and wash and cure like new
does come with some resin.
Going to go check out the sizes and some reviews.
The elegoo series (mainly the Mars and Saturn series) is the best in terms of resin printers hardware wise and software wise, the hardware is basically give or take all the same spread across different price ranges 4k, 8k, 16k etc. It’s just what software it runs, if it’s propriatery or not. and if it is, what has better features.
I think you won’t be disappointed with an anycubic mono 6k as it will provide results far superior than a fdm printer - layerlines will still be visibible and bad in the same places they are in fdm printing as it still uses a leadscrew (the top of cylinders are always pretty bad) but it’s worth a shot.
Here’s some pictures of the White silicone used in the laser engraved painted acyrlic. I think it’s pretty good. It leaves a residue on the side of holes as you have to wipe it away (which may also wipe away some of the silicone inside the text) which is why there are some gaps because I didn’t do a second layer of silicone so you can fill it more than I did but it is a process of adding more, and wiping away at the surface to remove the excess silicone.
I just used a paper towel and a bit of water to wipe away surface residue and once it was good I let it rest. Recoated a second time if required
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That looks great, is the print file available please?
That looks very nice. Have you considered a hard rubber squeegee to remove the excess? Should leave the silicone in the grooves.
I may just have to spring for the Elegoo 12k ultra as it has the ball screw. I’ll probably finish this radio stack with filament. Then just sell it when I get a resin printer. My wife’s been showing interest in the resin printer so maybe it will be a Birthday gift…
There isn’t a print file as the mdf panelling was lasercut in 16 3mm sections, and then glued together, then another laser cut top plate out of 3mm acyrlic was used, hence why you can see a bit of overlapping which I plan to avoid when I cut out a panel with my new CNC in one go, that panel was fine but mounting was a bit annoying having to sand off the misaligned parts.
Printing something of this size wouldn’t be possible unless you had a huge printer, each section was 400x300 roughly, so you’d have to cut it in even smaller pieces, which is the main thing I didn’t want to-do, I don’t like the look of random gaps.
3d Printing was used to make parts of certain components for example the handle of the throttle, the mixture assembly using the Cadet Throttle’s designs, and then some printed parts were used for the Captian Bob Sim 172 switch panel, flaps, and basically anything else that was connected to the panel.
The project files were taken out of the Captian bob sim C172 repository:
GitHub - CaptainBobSim/The-Cessna-172-Project-V3: The Cessna 172 Project brings hardcore flight simulation to more people - to help others find this wonderful hobby, and enjoy it!
If you browse through there, you will be able to find 2d drawings of the C172 panel to size, which I used. However I wrote the text using Helvetica Bold. Just copied it from the Airfoillabs C172 in X Plane 11 side to side.
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I never thought about it to be honest, It sounds like it would work better. But when I retry a simpit again I will just use white acyrlic and cut out the text, seems far easier and will last longer. It also allows for backlighting.
The Elegoo saturn 3 12k ultra is a great machine, and you’ll be able to get a decent return on it if you decide to sell it again.
I checked out some printers. Watched a bunch comparison videos and reviews. Realized that I don’t need a 12k or really even an 8k printer. Also noted that the Anycubic and Elegoo are both quality printers so It’s a toss-up on which one to buy.
Then foe S&Gs I checked Craigslist. A guy (who lives 5 miles away) had an Anycubic mono x 6k printer, with wash and cure stations, 3kg of resin, and a gallon of IPA for $350. I watched a bunch of reviews and got on Reddit to ask about the machine. Received nothing but positive feedback from owners. After offering the guy $300 (which he accepted), I’m now the proud owner of an Anycubic mono x 6k printer. Woohoo!
Now I have to figure out how to use it…
Look forward to seeing some results once you’ve figured it out
Sounds good to me, just ensure you’re safe when handling resin and try as hard as possible to avoid possible fume inhalation to avoid getting a resin allergy.
Exactly what I’m planning to do. I bought a diode laser, made a nice enclosure for it, and then realised I’d done a stupid since visible light lasers cannot cut or engrave on white acrylic (or anything transparent, but I knew that before I bought it at least), so I then bought the only CO2 laser that I can physically fit in my small build room which is a cheap-as-chips Chinese K40, which I’m now modding to be actually useful and not kill me. I’ve gone from knowing nothing to being a veritable CO2 laser expert (no, not really, but the learning curve is quite steep).
I considered a resin printer but TBH I haven’t really used my FDM machine that much so far, and there are many techniques for smoothing out print lines which seem to have good results, so I’ll try those first.
@JCSLOVE enjoy the Mono x6! Show us what you print on it.
Yeah, same here. Bought a big sheet of white acyrlic to trial on a 7.7W diode laser to test on too which I never ended up using.
I was also making a diy design of a large co2 laser but after time consulting the cost, first of all buying a 100W co2 laser assembled slightly smaller than I was intending to make it (1700 x 1130 - it’s way oversized for a project like a simpit) is about the same cost, and second is I feel for the cost of a machine, the properties of cutting on a co2 fairly overlap with my DIY cnc machine I’ve been making, so to cut on cost I’m thinking instead to modify the design to make it a 1700 x 1130 diode laser, and cut the white acyrlic panels with my CNC instead.
I also intend to try acetone vapour smoothing ABS parts, and also smoothing HIPS (High impact polystyrene) using d-limonene, as HIPS has a fairly close mechanical and print property to ABS. But of course I also have the resin machine so I can pick and choose what works for what, when I get everything setup. I do intend do document my findings but it’ll take awhile.
Rowmark makes black on white acrylic sheet. Laser off the black to see the white underneath. the lettering is clean and clear all the way down to 2mm. Once it’s lasered, I spray it with a clear mat finish photograph protectant from Michael’s. It gives it a great finish and makes it scratch-proof.
This vid shows it. Current collective (youtube.com)
Yes that does work quite well. But getting the acyrlic in the shape you need it becomes the issue, unless your panel is a square lol. You could also purchase the panels cut to shape, but I don’t know then how much cost savings you’d get out of owning a laser rather than just also getting it engraved by someone, or the same people.
I have a Snapmaker A250 3in1 printer. I laser then CNC without ever removing the sheet from the machine. Got mine used for $500. The new artisan machine came out recently so there are several A250 and A350 machines available on eBay and Craigslist. I use mine for cockpit build, replacing broken stuff around the house, and all kinds of stuff. I just printed tops for my wife’s terrariums that house 8 AA batteries and a 4" halo grow light. Not to mention everything that needs a cool black on white placard in my garage has one.
I saw a video on YouTube last night about UV printing a black / opaque layer onto acrylic, which you could then back-light. I think UV printers are about on a par in terms of size and cost with CO2 lasers, though, so it’s not a magical budget solution, and the laser can cut the acrylic for you too.
I also bought a small CNC machine (just 400x400 bed) but as of yet it’s still in the box. It would be good for cutting acrylic, although rectangular openings are not as good because the kerf of the cutting tool is always much much bigger than with the laser. Really, I got it because I could and I fancied having a play with it. I’ll figure out what I’m going to do with it later 
I saw the two-layer acrylic from Rowmark. Looks interesting, but I need my panels to be Airbus blue for my application, so I’m sticking with spray paint over white acrylic and then laser-engraving through the paint to make the lettering. At least, that’s the plan; I haven’t quite gotten it to work yet.
At what point do you think I might conclude that buying new machines has become the goal and making sim stuff is just a side-effect? If I buy any more fabrication equipment my ‘sim’ room will be full.
what all mods are you making to the standard Chinese blue cherry K40 ?
also eye getting one.
G
A bunch of mods are planned:
- I’ve replaced the laser head and the optics (mirrors, lens) with ones from Cloudray including a nozzle that allows air assist.
- I’ll be adding air assist via an aquarium compressor (initially, might go to a more serious unit) using a drag chain to keep the air tube out of the laser path
- I’ve removed the useless cutting bed and I’m making an adjustable z-axis table with a honeycomb bed
- I’m replacing the controller board with a MiniGerbil
- I’ll replace the ‘digital’ power control panel (which will be useless with the MiniGerbil anyway) and fit an analog ammeter
- I’m adding a red dot aiming pointer to the laser head
That’s it for now, but I’m sure I’ll think of more.
If you get one, be aware that out of the box it’s a potential death-trap. The case is almost never properly grounded and if your tube arcs to the case (which it can if it fails) then it’s live at 20Kv. First mod I made, without ever switching it on, was to grind off the powder-coat around the ground pin hole at the back and make sure the ground wires are making electrical contact with the case and have a path to ground via the mains cable.
We’re getting a little off-topic for resin printers, but if people want me to make a K40 setup and modding thread, I can. I’m videoing most of the work I’m doing for YouTube at a later point anyway.
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