I recently finished my DIY GNS530 and put it into use. Turned out better than I expected, even if the case is a bit rough around the edges.
Components:
Very little of this is 100% original. Standing on the shoulders of those who came before me!
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I really want to do this on my Bravo as well. I have never done anything like this before. Really like the way yours looks. Can you link to the exact arduino board?
Updated post with more links! I used an Arduino Mega Pro Mini. Only about $12 on Amazon. If you’ve never worked with Arduinos before (or Arduinos with MSFS), I’d recommend starting with a full-size Mega from a reputable manufacturer.
A shield like this one is useful for prototyping as well. Helps with all the ground lines you need during prototype/experimenting with buttons and encoders.
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Sweet! Im on a similiar project myself. Sent the panel layout for lasercutting today (I dont have a 3D printer). Im too planning on using Mobiflight beta, so its good to hear that it worked out for you.
How do you connect the Note4 to your computer?
I use Spacedesk. You install the Spacedesk video driver on your windows machine and the Spacedesk app on the phone/tablet. Get them both running, then in Windows configure the new “monitor” using the usual display properties. Run it in low res, not native mode for best responsiveness. Pop out the GPS window in the sim using right-alt mouse-click, then drag it to the new “monitor”. Alt-enter to full screen once it’s showing on the phone.
I didn’t notice any frame-rate drop, but have not measured it.
Thats really cool. I never thought of the posibility using an old phone.
Eliminates power and hdmi cords to the device. Eliminates need for external power supply and a free video port on the computer. Just make sure you have a way to turn on the phone and attach a USB power cord from time to time.
Was considering using the same approach for a G1000 build. A 10" android tablet is $110 on Banggood dot com, and a 10" LCD is $95 on ebay.
Looks awesome. How did you wire the encoders and buttons?
Did you write the script yourself (or do you even have to using Mobiflight)?
I just finished a button box with 10 encoders, , two encoders w/push button, two propwash duals, and 10 buttons–not sure whether to go Leo Bodner or Arduino…
Encoders and buttons are connected to an Arduino Mega (with dupont wires). The arduino runs Mobiflight which assigns buttons to the GNS 530 functions.
I’ve not used the Leo B. stuff so unsure how it connects to the sim and if it has been updated for MSFS 2020. The arduino/mobiflight route is likely less expensive and has an extensive community for support questions. This 530 project is really the same thing that you’ve just done with your button box but in a box that looks like a Garmin.
Following CACrawf’s excellent lead I was able to pull this off using a Micro Atmega32U4 Arduino (3 for $20US at Amazon) and Mobiflight. Works great - pretty close to the real thing. The only unfortunate part is popping out an instrument costs 10 FPS.
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Looks awesome! I’m rebuilding mine around a similar display and the same Arduino Mega Pro Mini. I really liked using the phone/spacedeck combo to reduce wiring, but wanted the correct ratio screen and a smaller overall package. I also wasn’t happy with my janky buttons, so redesigned the whole thing using what I learned building a couple of G1000 units.
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Excellent! How did you do the lettering on your buttons and knobs? I at first tried printing with a 2nd color but the letters were so small they were prone to just break off. I ended up doing 3-4 vodka shots to steady my hand and then hand painted the raised letters with white paint. You get bonus points for going the extra mile and putting the letters on the knobs!
I’ve tried so many ways of doing buttons! On my G1000, i wanted them back-lit, but never found a satisfactory way to get them both backlit and visible without backlighting. Tried various combinations of clear/black/white PLA. Clear resin printing. Painting white then black and sanding the black of the lettering. Raised letters, recessed letters, etc.
The best ones I’ve seen are printed plain without lettering, then painted, then laser etched to burn off the paint to make the letters. Those are super sharp.
The best look-to-effort I have found uses two-color PLA printing. I have a very old FlashForge Creator Pro that has 2 print heads. I print the knob and the lettering in one go. If you go after the letters aggressively to clean them up, you can definitely pop one off. I have a Garmin logo in the upper right that I may do what you did (paint white) and I have recessed lettering on the frame to label the knobs, but I have not filled those in with paint. That’s what I did on the “RNG” and it looks kind of messy right now. (The lettering is recessed, then I fill the void with paint and scrape off the excess with an x-acto blade.)
There’s a couple good Discord groups with people discussing these things. Look for “FlightSimMaker” or ping me.
Dammit. Just noticed I dropped the entire bottom row of buttons backwards…just when you think you’ve got it all together!
LOL. I hate when I do that… Really nice build though.
Rowmark has a black on translucent white plastic that I use for buttons and lighted panels. I didn’t use it for my latest switch panel/ button box because I fly in VR now so it seemed pointless to backlight it. But you’re right, the lasered lettering is rather nice.
You may notice that my C and V buttons are swapped. Haven’t decided if I’m going to fix it yet.
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Wow, that looks really nice. Need to see a shot from the back. Either you made some custom PCBs, or the wiring is insane in that tight a panel.
HAHAHA! Don’t feel bad. I have had a real Garmin 430/530 for nearly 20 years and I did not even catch that!
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What kind of electrical switch did you use for your gear switch? Everything I have here in the parts box is too stiff. They would probably throw the knob across the room.
I have it mostly wired. My soldering iron crapped out and the new one just arrived this evening. It’s really not all that tight. But I’m often rooting around in the dashboard of a Peterbilt. Now there’s a cluster…
