I didn’t think I’d get this one after already having purchased the Arrow III and the Turbo Arrows, but the discount offered and the fact that my last 2 GA-purchases turned out to be nothing more than OK - Cessna coughcough - I took the plunge, admittedly expecting the same high quality Just Flight has been showcasing up to now.
I’m glad I did - the ship might look similar to the other PA28’s but it feels unique (furthermore, nice sounds!).
I found myself flying the Arrows (both normal and turbo) most of the time I fire up the sim, the turbo for mountain/high altitude flying, the Arrow III for the rest and the Warrior is looking like it will also see plenty of use both in and outside of VR.
@SinewyDolphin74 Thank you and everyone at Just Flight for yet another quality product and for the discount offered to owners of the previously released Arrows, it’s appreciated. Looking forward to the Fokker F28 and anything else you’ll bring to the sim - keep up the great work.
I’m trying to assign an axis to carburetor heat, but I can’t find it in the MSFS control settings. Does anybody know what it’s called in the control settings?
I see a lot of people commenting on the sound… actually I can confirm that the sounds are an incredibly faithful representation of what a warrior sounds IRL (down to every single switch or button or toggle or lever). The sounds really are top notch
There are a few things that could be improved, I think most importantly it should get the prop animation from the arrow… the current one looks like a camera would depict it and causes flickering.
This was fixed on the arrows also and now is very good, so I’m sure we’ll get an update in the future.
I also concur that the cockpit panels look somewhat brighter/washed out compared to the arrows
The engine parameters were tweaked carefully because the higher torque setting / longer time starting it gave an unrealistically high rpm during the startup. It was a specific request for realism, so will not be changed for general release, but happy that the optional adjustment has been noted here - it may be worth us putting a note in the manual about it.
I heartily agree with this, so much in fact, that I’ve advised a number of students over the years to save enough money and have it available to complete your training from start to finish. Weather permitting, plan on flying every other day or at least twice a week. Supplement the actual training with practice in the sim when you cannot be at the airport. Practice in the pattern; do as many takeoffs and landings as you can stand in one sitting. Try to be as consistent as possible.
Scout your cross-country flights before you do them. I sure wish I’d been able to do that when I was learning… and now you can!
One thing that is most important . It is SUPER easy to skip steps in the sim. That is one thing you ABSOLUTELY have to avoid! So do every step of every checklist you have. Learning that one thing can save your life, and make operation of the aircraft second nature, just like the “muscle memory” learning to touch type. In this case, the “muscle” is your brain!
I would add one thing to this discussion. If you are going to train in a typical Piper or Cessna in real life, do not set up computer controls that represent a Stearman.
Here’s what I mean. I use a joystick with msfs and my throttle quadrant is on my left. I am so used to that configuration now, that were I to fly a Cessna or Piper again in real life, it would feel incredibly strange to have throttle in my right hand and yoke in my left. My muscle memory is not trained for real flight at the moment in the aircraft I flew 25 years ago!
I must be doing something wrong, the aircraft seems much too draggy. At a typical cruise setting of 2400 rpm I can only do about 95 knots at 3000 feet. Is that correct? Also I was taught to use a setting of 1500 rpm to slow down to slow flight and on the base and final legs of the pattern. When I do that the speed drops very fast (much faster than in real life in my experience). But maybe the particular aircraft modelled here has much more drag than the one I’ve flown for some reason, or I’m doing something stupid here…
Since I don’t have a pilot’s license in real life or have ever flown a Warrior myself I don’t have the same emotional connection to it that a lot of you have. But even so, I bought it and just finished my first test flight. As far as accuracy of the modelling goes I’ll leave that to those of you with some real experience. But what I can say is:
I had a very enjoyable time flying the Warrior.
Ground handling seems to be much better than the Arrow, not sure if that is accurate but it’s a big bonus!
On a similar note, it does have lower rotation and approach speeds, both of which are certainly appreciated!
It climbs like a slug, so I suppose it’s mainly meant to stay low and enjoy the scenery. That’s certainly what I plan to use it for!
I can confirm the problem described above (I believe) that the engine cannot be started with the start switch on the Honeycomb Alpha yoke. It’s necessary to turn the key in the virtual cockpit instead.
I’m glad that the wheel fairings are optional. While they are a part of the iconic look of the Warrior I always thought they look rather silly. But they can in fact easily be removed via the EFB.
Just some quick questions to Warrior pilots:
Am I supposed to use flaps during take-off? If so, which setting? In the checklist it says Flapts Set and checked, but the manual doesn’t seem to specify the correct flap settings for normal take-offs.
Secondly, can somebody confirm or deny that the Avionics Master switch is the one labelled “Emergency Bus Switch”? Can’t find any other switches that seem to fit the bill.
100% agree. Throttle in your right hand, joystick (or better, yoke) in your left. The Thrustmaster 16000 comes with right and left inserts, so it feels natural in your left hand. The HOTAS, unfortunately, is set up to be used left handed as shown below.
The avionic Master power is not visible from the pilot seat, you have to shift the camera view centered to the right seat, next to the fan controller switch
I assume you mean indicated airspeed? That would be about right. In cruise, expect to get between 100 and 104 knots true airspeed. I also tend to cruise at 2450. I rent wet.
As I implied above, if speed is what you’re looking for, the Warrior is not for you.
1500 would be a little slow rpm-wise, that sounds like a C152. I tend more towards 1700 to 2000, maybe get down to 1500 on short final. I worry more about maintaining airspeed than I do an exact RPM. It depends on how flat your pattern is. I’ll control airspeed with pitch first and then throttle. Some have said low wing aircraft like the Piper tend to drop like a rock without some power, until you get into/close to ground effect. It will also tend to float with any power in after you flare.
No, I never use flaps on take off, in either a Piper or a Cessna, except in short takeoff situations.
You should get at least 500 fpm climb. Maybe 750 at low altitude. I can’t say I ever fly above 5000 ft in the Warrior, sometimes. I usually keep it to 3000 or so.
I’m not looking for speed, I’m just trying to find out why it behaves so differently than the warrior I fly in real life.
At 3000 feet indicated and true airspeed differ by maybe 5%, but I reflew it now, no wind, and I get 95kts GS per Garmin at 2400 rpm at 3000 feet. Does the JustFlight manual give us a number for the cruise speed and the conditions to achieve it?
As you say, the manual says 2000 rpm for decent and approach. But in the real life aircraft I fly (a warrior but not a warrior II and not a C-152) I got taught 1500 and that is plenty, in the sim at 1500rpm it drops like a rock.
Maybe different builds of warriors behave differently, don’t have that much experience in that regard. All I’m saying is that this bird flies very differently from the one I fly in RL (my RL bird also needs much more right rudder and left aileron on climb), and I’m curious to find out what the reason is…
