Thrustmaster rudder axis noise fix

User Support Hub Hardware & Peripherals
21

So how does that relate to this rudder axis issue?

22

Thank you sincerely for this post. I managed to apply the same fix to mine and now it works perfectly. The white wire was crimped so would have broken eventually. I would recommend this fix to anyone. I can now land on the centre line and up the right way in both hemispheres!!!

23

Thrustmaster rudder axis noise fix - Self-Service / Peripherals - Microsoft Flight Simulator Forums

24

Thank you for posting this!!! Rudder issue resolved!!!

25

Did exactly this and worked perfectly
 Thank you very much!!!

26

Thanks a lot for the tip.
Works a treat!

28

works great for a while and then it just comes back
 darn this is annoying

29

Yep, I know. The fix works for a while and then it comes back. So I changed to the VBK Gladiator. Much better!!

1 Like
30

Some problems can turn into opportunities
 This one in partucular made me start a new project lol
 Homemade steering tiler - #13 by Bug7911

31

This fix worked for me so far. Thanks for the info. I must say that this is a stupid design
Thrustmaster was of no help. They wanted a lot of unnecessary info when they verry well know what the issue is. Thanks again.

32

Same :smiley:

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33

Thanks! It worked for me. Much appreciated.

34

this fix still works! (For now! haha)

35

Works, thanks very much. Hopefully it remains at least for months. :slight_smile:

36

Worked like a charm! I’ve been searching for this fix and the other temporary fix was to set your deadzone on MFS to about 70% (mine worked at 35%) to not get that jitter. This is better if you have the right tools and patience to open it.

37

Works perfectly!

38

One better, I cut the potentiometer off and replaced it with a hall sensor.

Just finished it last night so still testing, but so far it’s been amazing.

Got the hall sensor noted on the channel, and the same magnets (pay attention to these, I bought some wrong ones initially) from online.

The only tools required are a soldering iron and hot glue gun required, a small screwdriver to open it up and a pair of pliers (or much less ideally, scissors) to strip the wire and help hold things.

The vid is about the T1600M, but the internals are identical to the Airbus stick.
“T16000m Z axis sensor FIX! Pot to Hall sensor upgrade!”
The vid shows in the preview, but not on the forum. This is the link below. Remove the space in you tube.
https://www.you tube.com/watch?v=jBo_dAvgZ1k&list=FLAYKTP1fLqo_G3DjyosYnag&ab_channel=TheKlaxon

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First time using a hot glue gun. I melted it all further and cleaned it up later. Put it back together and forgot to take a final pic.
I needed to lift up the sensor a bit away from the magnets, as it was not getting the full magnetic field.
I also moved apart the other wires for the hat switch into two bundles and tied them up with cable ties and routed them around each side of the glue and hall sensor.

Hope it helps someone out there.

1 Like
39

Nice edit to this joystick. My fix in the end did not prove to be a sustainable fix, so I switched to a different joystick, a bit more expensive, but much better quality overall. The VKB Gladiator NXT, warmly recommended!

1 Like
40

Yeah I’ve been looking at it too. Or one that can put an Airbus stick on it. WinWing did one, but that doesn’t seem to be a current option.

41

I have done another kind of fix to it, only duct tape is required
 it seems the problem is the very sensitive sensor plus a stick with minor wobbly behaviour before hitting the spring