Good day
For about 2 years I have been using the Thrustmaster T16000 ™ joystick, and I am satisfied with the product. Recently I began using the autopilot (AP) with the default Airbus and Cirrus, coming with the premium edition of MSFS2020. However, I soon ran into problems: Every time the AP is activated and I happen to touch the joystick handle, to change view or just by accident, the plane moves violently from side to side, apparantly getting out of control, with the AP still switched on. Sometimes things calm down again, other times it ends with a dramatic spin towards the ground/water.
I suppose my TM settings (sensitivity, etc) are quite normal,and I never installed TM drivers, because the hardware was immediately recognized by Windows 10 when I installed it two years ago.
At this point I question: are there any flightsimmers out there having similar problems, when using the TM and AP? if so, did you solve the problem and, if yes, how?
I would very much appreciate any help. I tried the TM website in order to report the problem, but I had to register and fill out some lengthy forms with much private information, which I was not prepared to do - (maybe I should have done).
Now I rely on this forum for assistance, otherwise I have to change hardware one more time, as I started out with the Logitech flightstick, which unfortunately broke down after less than 2 years of use. (otherwise I have used Logitech hardware succesfully since FS version 3.0 about 1990.)
ps: I only have the sidestick, not the throttle quadrant.
with regards and the best wishes to the commnunity
I have the same stick and never had any trouble. I also havent installed any drivers or software and all my curves and dead zones are default. I have no idea why it would behave like that unless your sensitivity is cranked to the moon. It takes quite a lot of deflection to over ride the AP or even get the plane to react at all for me. I hope you get it sorted but something strange is going on there and in my opinion it’s not the hardware.
Do you have any assists or ai pilot modes turned on?
Hi - glad to hear your joystick is working. Now my story:
its too easy to post on this forum, I regret having bothered the forum with such a trifle: an obviously malfunctioning joystick.
One can always hope that someone might find the info useful, so I just finish the thread here and leave it as it is.
what happened: yesterday I tried to calibrate the joystick and found the rudder gauge/bar flickering up and down all the time - as if a constant noise signal affected it. I played around for a while, and finally it settled. Then I examined the joystick and found that it was not assembled properly, as there seemed to be a “play” in the bottom part. There were a couple of screws I tried to tighten, maybe it helped a bit. At least now I know the position the lower part of the handle should be in, if I should undertake future flights with this pathetic piece of hardware.
Final comment:
How stupid can an person like me be, actually this malfunctioning joystick has also affected the normal flying for some time, without the AP turned on: At times the airplanes I fly (just the two I mentioned earlier) suddenly could sway violently from side to side. Well, its Asobo having added special wind effects - so this idiot thought, working with the Thrustmaster to counteract the “wind effects”.
BS, it was a corrupt 80 buck piece of s… from Thrustmaster, produced in a hurry right after CORONA, when there was a shortage of all kind of fligthsim accessories. Now I come to think of the Logitech product, which also worked for two years: Maybe all these chinese producers have found a way make their products last exactly two years/warranty time?
I promise: the next time I will report a real problem, or even better: I hope there will be no next time at all..
Hello Forum
let me finish this thread in a proper way - just in case others might find it helpful.
I was about to buy the expensive control equipment (“honey_something”), but it was sold out
Then I decided to repair my TM 16000 flight stick. As the rudder went bananas each time I touched the lower part of the stick (the flat part on the bottom to support the hand), I tried to adjust it,as it designed to be moved from one side to the other, depending upon whether you are left- og righthanded. I tried both, no effect. Then I removed this piece completely. BINGO
now the flightstick works. Its fun to be gamer again, in particular flying the Cirrus SR22, the new version. Great work from Asobo and Microsoft, its a realistic flying experience, and I have read about real world pilots on another forum saying the same, which obviously counts more than my statement.
A final word would be to other simmers, who experience drastic deviation to one side when taking off ( I have read about it on this forum): check your controlling hardware. It might be the first sign of your rudder going bananas.
I just saw this post and wanted to comment that the 16000 is the same design internally as the Airbus TCA stick, also built by TM.
These long-standing threads will sound very familiar to you:
It’s the wiring inside the sticks. They’re identical from an internal build perspective. Hopefully your problem won’t come back, but it’s possible it will.
My solution was to donate my stick to someone who needed one (they disabled the rudder I believe), and replaced it with a VKB setup. Solid as a rock. I’ll never buy TM ever again.
It’s not an usual problem I guess as I’m an happy T16000M Hotas customer for years now.
When I connect both USB I always launch right after the “C:\Windows\System32\control.exe joy.cpl” program through a shortcut I created, to check all axis and buttons, and so far didn’t catch such behavior. This is a routine I do each time.
Kind of weird, not needed, but still, old habit
Hi Guys. This topic has not been solved. The issue is still there, its a defective z-axis problem. I googled the whole thing and found a video on YT, where a guy is actually taking the joystick apart and replacing some parts (to me it all looked very technical, but I managed to disassemble the stick. Now I need to learn which parts to replace, do some soldering and calibrating with magnetos and reassemble. It will take some months, I am afraid. By the way, I learned to live with the defect rudder (z-axis) but after having watched the video I decided to give it a try, You can find the technical instruction on a channel called “the Klaxon”, just in case. Thanks to the moderator for putting the above comments in this thread, its nice to know that I am not alone. I know there are people around who are satisfied with their TM, but this seems to be the old model with g r e e n light, the new ones with g o l d i s h lighting, like mine, are build to become defect - most likely to increase sales. The guy who fixed the TM with replace parts told us that these parts would last forever, so if he can find out, TM should have done so, too. But no - they want to increase sales by reducing the life-time of their components. But less than 2 years is not acceptable, I could stand 3-4 years, so: I will also never buy TM again, but I am sorry that I cannot be a simmer any longer, for some months to come now, Well, there are other things in life, aren’t there?
