Yep, agree, flashing at 50% is annoying.
One day, out of nowhere, it started to break on me. Far rougher movement, then just not moving at all without significant force as well as noise. Warranty period missed. After collecting dust for a few months, I decide I want to play this game some more. I take the thing apart to find the thing circled in blue broken. Cracked in half all the way down along the screw. Looking for some advice on how to fix this, something like adhesive.
Heh that’s my old pic.. I can fix a lot of things but that does not bode well for a repair considering the forces involved. And the wiring is very delicate there, which kept me from removing that to tinker with the primary yoke shaft.
I’d bet the reason it broke is because someone cranked down on a screw at the factory. Before doing anything try to get a really good pic of the crack(s). See if the crack goes through any of the assembly hardware. Might be an argument there.
You really can’t break it because it meets the ends of its travel first, unless someone cranked on it like it was the watertight door on a sinking ship.
Possible that the screw was overtightened and the fatigue grew.
The thing itself is the mechanism that connects the shaft to the springs, so you might think they’d go with metal for a part like that. Just to reiterate, it is snapped in half. The two sides have detached from each other, top to bottom.
All I wanna know is it there’s some super glue or something strong enough to withstand the changing forces.
After 40 years of all things R/C and most things real, nothing is likely to work. CA itself is brittle. Proper plastic glues that soften the plastic and essentially weld the plastic together are still not going to take the load pushing those springs. It’s likely a GRP cast piece. Like a suspension component on a large RC car.
You muay want to plead your case with TB that that screw at the top was probably over torqued. And swear on your life you never beat up on it and you love buying lots of TB stuff…
That top screw goes into threaded metal where most plastic pieces screw together with self tapping screws that will strip before over stressing, but not that middle screw. Take a breath and go through the process of getting someone on the phone before trying to ‘fix’ anything.
Sorry for late response… hopefully you got yours in the meantime!
Mine took 3 weeks from the day I ordered it.
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Hello, does anyone know how to start the stopwatch in the Navlog when using a VelocityOne from turtle beach and flying single engine prop?
Running MSFS2020 on XBox X. Have installed VelOne controller but this causes the picture in World to revolve at high speed when trying to set up a flight. Only work round so far is to dis V1, set up flight and then reconnect.
Anyone experienced similar?
I have similar behavior with my V1F/Xbox, but I’ve found if I just turn the yoke slightly, the spinning stops and I can then set up my flight.
Thank you for that. Works a treat..
Nice to know I wasn’t alone with this kink.
Houda at TBeach didn’t come up with this.
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I’ve had the yoke and throttle quadrant for a while now, thinking of picking up the flight stick as well. Does anyone know if it works/tried to plug the throttle quadrant into the flight stick?
I had the flight stick 1st, then purchased the version with the yoke. Supposedly, you can hook the rudder peddles to the FS but can’t plug the throttle quadrant into the FS.
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Ah that stinks, thanks for the heads up
I use both in combinations. When I was still on XB I plugged the pedals into the stick because I kept having trim bug issues and brakes intermittent. But the flightstick is a great setup, you just clamp the yoke off to the side and move the quad onto a bracket.
I have multiple setups with this, and the quad on the bracket seems more in the right place when using the yoke.
A few setups:
-Standard yoke/throttle setups
-Stick on right/quad on left (typical tandems/cubs/biplanes/wwII birds/etc). Even have some setups when the aircraft has a lever throttle and vernier mixture…
-Stick on the left/quad on the right, for the SR22T specifically I even slightly twist the stick on an angle in the clamp to meet the armrest angle per prototype. I use electric trim on this setup as well, also per prototype.
The stick works FANTASTIC, much more responsive than the yoke, BUT the spring is too stiff. I have a ton of springs from R/C cars so I modified one of those in the desired spring ratio, but most people cut the stock spring. Makes a huge difference. If you have a collection of Traxxas 1/10 bits around, you surely have extra shock springs…Or just buy a cheap pack of them.
With the TB pedals and flightstick, the sheer precision with aircraft like the WACO makes it absolute cake to fly(popup taxi camera 2 on that shot). You can use all of this with only two USB’s on XB. When on XB I had a quad only setup(deleted everything on the yoke itself), although on PC the quad is it’s own device. And having problems with XB, I kept the pedals in the FS and had a pedals only setting for that(deleted all the joystick assignments).
The flightstick levers are silly, with the quad it’s incredibly versatile. I don’t use the trim wheel on the FS, and the ‘mouse’ I only use for it’s click feature(I think return to developer default cockpit-I use all custom views and needed to assign something to it). My ‘reset view’ is always to custom camera 1.
**Pro tip 2-for TB pedals if you want something to keep it firm to the wall use a cheap plastic/rubber cutting board. This $5 one I have one side does spacing for stick setups, the other direction spaces it out for the yoke(further back). Goes under the cable…Whatever distance you want the pedals from the wall, there’s a cheap cutting board in that size.
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Great setup thanks for information. I don’t participate in the beta but with the new/higher fidelity A320 coming to console soon I would like to use a stick instead of a yoke. I’ll give this a try!
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Good idea about a stick for the v2, I’m thinking about adding one myself. Have a few hours in the v2 in beta, I fly GA with the TB V1F yoke and turbines with the TM Boeing TCA Quadrant set-up. What I have found flying the v2 with the yoke is that I have to make much smaller movements, pretending that I am using a sidestick to avoid overcontrolling. Now I can probably fix this with a custom profile for the v2, but I’m just not there yet. Meanwhile, much smaller movement, pause/assess effect, then correct as needed. This is probably more related to fly by wire than sidestick vs yoke, but interesting to me nonetheless. Hope this helps folks figure things TB out. Cheers!
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The cord to the quad is decently long, so not hard to find a place to clamp the yoke off to the side and use the quad with the FS. It’s fairly cheap considering how good the resolution is, especially after changing the spring. Get some Etsy levers and gtg.
I’m not a big side stick fan of any sort, but tried it with the SR22 with the little bit of tilt to the right and twisted to match the angle my hand meets it on the armrest(just like the SR22) and it was cake, instantly intuitive. Takes about 30 seconds to loosen a few bolts on the clamp and adjust accordingly. I used to avoid all the ‘modern’ GA sidestick aircraft, fly them all the time now.
Are you saying that on XB having the flight stick connected “in between” the yoke/quad and rudder pedals eliminated the trim bug???
I could have totally misunderstood what you were saying too.
In the pictures of your setup, I cannot tell exactly how you’ve managed to daisy chain all the multiple TB devices together. Jealous BTW 
Plug the pedals in the flightstick, the V1 plugs in normally, the quad wire is long enough to move it around. So it’s only two USBs into the 'box. I usually don’t have it so messy, thought I was putting up a pic of the SR22 not two of the same stick right/quad left.
For some reason you’d get trim jumps +/- 100 with the pedals hooked into the V1 at the time, and half the time on XB the brakes didn’t load. Not sure if they fixed it but the firmware hasn’t been changed in a while. With the pedals slaved to the stick(and all the stick controls removed for that setup) it didn’t cause issues. That’s the same way I slaved the TFRP’s to the HOTAS when using them with the V1.
Is this forum still working