Wow. Turning into quite the beast. Your roll gear doesn’t have to be 360 degree. You may want to put weight reducing hole in the stanchions. There’s a lot of mass there to move.
I like the double gears. I read that should remove any play. I’m thinking about doing that for my rudder pedals.
You could move the mass of one of those supports to the housing by using a linear rotary bearing. I found them a few months ago during a search for “linear rotary bearings”. They don’t have a store front or online pricing, I requested a quote. they are a little pricey but should do the trick. I will be using one on my next yoke.
Hi, It works great. In the next days i will start to code the roll movement and make some tests.
here are a first gear-test. https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/66cQPcgmK2k
It is growing. I guess i will finish the mechanical part next week and dive into arduino programming. If nothing unforseen happened may be i can release a first alpha of the 3d parts on Thingiverse. May be..
Here a new Video of the pitch gear roll test. I need some new screws and a new poti for futher tests 
I’ve decided to move my project (with code an 3d files) to an own Topic:
https://forums.flightsimulator.com/t/diy-ffb-yoke-wip/522399
Greetings
2 Likes
For me:
Saitek Cessna Yoke … check
Microsoft SW FFB2 … no
Mechanical parts … no
3D printed parts … no
Time … … … plenty …
Also very excited!
Life (and building a motion simulator) came in between, but I’m finally back on track for the yoke in the middle of the assembly phase 
@JCSLOVE, I got two questions for you:
- How did you fix the axle to the “housing-unit”? It sits strong on the 3d printed end but is that strong enough when forces are moving against me pulling the yoke?
- Are the screws bolted only to the aluminium plate? It seems that the aluminium plate is directly attached to the Saitek enclosure (so no space for nuts beneath the plate)?
Thanks in advance!
The metal bracket is sandwiched between 2 needle bearing and is bolted the rear of the housing. It’s strong enough to withstand the force of the yoke slamming against the stop. Which it will do (if you don’t hold on the it) as a flight loads up. Was a great, and unexpected, test of the gear teeth as well.
The screws are bolted to the aluminum plate. the plate is screwed to the Saitek housing using the two existing center screws on the top, and two additional screws added towards the rear of the top. I mounted the plate to the housing using the two existing screw and then just used the plate as the template for drilling the two additional holes.
I have added the f3d file to Thingiverse. That should make it easier for you to see how it’s all put together.
Thing files for Saitek FFB yoke by Thick8 - Thingiverse
Thanks! But how do you connect the “steering column” (maybe it’s the wrong word) to the rotating part at the back of the housing? You somehow must ensure, that once you pitch the yoke, the housing moves forwards and backwards and once you roll the yoke the rotating part at the back of the housing rotates.
Have you opened the f3d file and inspected it?
Wow, that looks great.
I drilled 2 holes in the plastic bushing in the back of the tube. Then filled the void with 2-part epoxy (J.B.Weld). Put a piece of tape over the holes and stood the yoke tube on its end till the epoxy dried. Then drilled and tapped threaded holes in the epoxy. I use long screws as well to make sure they didn’t pull out of the epoxy holes. I even added blue loc-tite to help secure the screws. You could even use bolts with a more course thread pitch to get a better bite in the epoxy.
I see you figured out that bodies 621 and 622 are just the bolt heads.
I also glued the linear pot support down to the aluminum plate to help secure it.
That explains a lot, thank you very much! I thought you might have done it like you actually did, so I’m not too far off.
I will continue tomorrow and catch some sleep now.
Thanks bud!
I love this yoke mod. I have been using it in my sim since he first put it out. I don’t use the Saiteck case though. It is hidden behind all three of my panels and works great with XPForce or Airforce drivers. I use a 128mm slide pot so I get a little bit more motion and I extended the pitch gear train.
Here is a great modification of this yoke. 200mm pitch and 180 degree roll.
Hi @LTMcComb and @JCSLOVE,
this modification requires a new (hollow) tube though, right?
As the Cessna version of the Saitek Yoke comes with 180° roll, this is something I always wanted to realize in a V2 since I started the build. Do you see any option of combining the “original tube mount” (not hollow, fixed to the housing like described above) with a 180° “roll driven gear”?
I’m nearly finished with my yoke and will post some pictures soon (just need to get some tiny screws for mounting the USB-ports).
The only part that needs to be hollow is the last inch. Not sure what your tube looks like or it’s diameter. I’m sure with little effort a solid tube could be used. What are the measurements of the tube? Are you using JCLOVE’s V2 design with two bearings and adaptive bolt for the roll gear? If so then maybe drill and tap the tube in place of the nut and modify the bushing before printing.
I’m not sure if I fully understand what you are suggesting. Right now I’ve built JCLOVE’s V1 but am willing to build a second one with more roll (and some additional changes that I’ve made/not yet made on V1).
I have the same question as for the V1 though… How is the tube connected to the roll gear? Is the screw and the nuts just “glued” in with epoxy?
The V1 roll gear is secured by 2 long thin bolts. The V2 roll gear is held in by one captive bolt. If you print the V2 bushing without the part that goes in the pipe (just edit it out or cut after printing )you can drill and tap your pipe. Then use a shorter bolt that holds the new 180 degree bolt. I think you are asking how to modify V1 for the V2 new roll gear. You still putting in in the original Saitek housing?
Partially! I am considering between two options: a) convert my “finished” V1 yoke to V2. b) build a second, new V2 yoke. And yes, in both cases I need to use the original Saitek housing.
The thing that is still not quite clear to me is how the roll gear is attached to the tube (V2). In V1, as you wrote correctly, I screwed two thin bolts into the tube and glued them with epoxy. By using two bolts, the rotational force is transmitted well.
With captive you surely mean the two nuts that are twisted against each other, right? If these, however, are merely “glued” into the tube, I can not imagine that the rotational forces do not break the splice (I have more engine power through the resistor mod).
If you look at the Fusion 360 drawing you will see it. The head of the bolt is recessed into the new roll gear. Then you have the bearings between the roll gear and bracket . On the other side of the bracket is another bearing and then the bolt goes into the busing and is bound up by two nuts. I actually printed the bushing slightly shorted so the binding nuts were easier to get to. Originally you had to get deep thin walled socket to get to the nut to bind it.